Project Wraith - ST170 Powered Sonic - EKC0001

[kiwicanfly]

Curious why the exhaust is inside the frame, this may be normal on a Sonic of course but on the Rocket the exhaust certainly wont fit in that gap.

Also with the Hadron gearbox install in my Rocket I attached the pneumatic cylinders directly to the selectors, you look like you are going to attach to the cables, don't know which option would give you the smallest footprint.

[casesensitive]

Jan 16, 2018 2:27:58 GMT kiwicanfly said:

Curious why the exhaust is inside the frame, this may be normal on a Sonic of course but on the Rocket the exhaust certainly wont fit in that gap.

EArly in my build I trawled other builds for ideas for mine, saving pictures of bits I liked, including plenty of exhausts, about half of them, on Rockets, were inside the frame, pretty sure RTR offered some sort of option around this. An early version maz27's looks to have been too. Though, it looks like a straight 'race-pipe' on second inspection, the noise of that must have been something else!.

Certainly Ade's was inside, looked the business too.












That said, I asked my guy if it was possible for mine, and he said no way. Maybe it's an IB5 gearbox thing? I know it weighs a lot less than mine, might also be smaller.

[skyquake]

Continuing on, I wasn't going to talk about this until a later update, but as Kiwi has nicely led me onto it, I might as well go ahead.

Part 2 - Gear Change

So, as Kiwi says, I am using the Hadron system for my gear changing. If the girlfriend asks, this is for safety reasons and because there isn't enough room in between the seats for the gear lever; not because it's a snazzy gadget with some serious cool factor.

Once you've agreed on the system with Steve from Hadron, and paid your money, a box turns up in the post and it's just like being a kid at Christmas! Literally just like receiving a lego kit with a recommended age of 18+! Valves, cylinders, pumps, pipes, switches, widgets and gizmos galore! It's infinitely customization and there are countless ways to install it in the vehicle.



As there's quite a bit of mass associated with the system, I started by getting as much of it as far forwards as possible. I installed the pump in the front RHS under the steering column, and the air cylinder (welding bottle) will be located above.





Compressed air will run from the front of vehicle to the front of the engine bay, where I'll be installing the pneumatic cylinders.

For this, as Kiwi suggests, I am indeed using the gear cables from the donor vehicle to move the pneumatics away from the exhaust. In order to keep things neat, I combined all of the cylinders and valves together into one self contained module. This module will be mounted to a plate in the front RHS of the engine bay, and the gear cables will pass underneath the engine and be controlled by the two arrays of cylinders.

This is the mounting plate with gear cable holders:


Cylinders loosely positioned in place:


Valves sitting on top:


And here's the assembled module:


[img src="https://i.ibb.co/BKCmcxg/16-01-2018-8.jpg" style="max-width:100%;" alt="https://i.ibb.co/BKCmcxg/16-01-2018-8.jpg
"]

Next job was to wire it up and see whether it all worked! The pump side needs a relay and a pressure cut off switch, and I managed to get all this working fine. The control computer (the GECU) however, I was less lucky with, owing to a small wiring diagram problem (which led to a little puff of smoke, doh!) Anyway, that's out for repair, and when it comes back hopefully I'll have more luck.

That's all for now. Suspension next...

[kiwicanfly]

what does the fifth cylinder do? I am only using four in two pairs.

Also I would recommend you put a water trap in as well.

[skyquake]

Jan 16, 2018 23:18:09 GMT kiwicanfly said:

what does the fifth cylinder do? I am only using four in two pairs.

Also I would recommend you put a water trap in as well.

I'm using the 6 speed box from the ST170, so I need the extra cylinder to achieve that extra position.  Without it, I'd have to choose between 6th or reverse!

Could you expand upon the 'water trap' please?  I had guessed that I'd get a bit of moisture build up in the tank, and hence I've included a ball valve at the base of the tank manifold (if you have a look at the picture of all the bits laid out on the desk), so that I could drain it once in a while, but do you think I need something more than this?

[kiwicanfly]

I put a small water trap between the pump and the tank to minimize moisture entering the tank, it is easy to drain so I do it reasonably often but I am still surprised how much water I bleed out of it.

The problem with your tank orientation is that any water that pools in the tank at the bottom (in your orientation) has the potential to be forced through the system into the solenoids and cylinders. Ideally you should draw air off the top of the tank and have a drain at the bottom.

My tank is horizontal however I don't have a drain so I am relying on the trap to do its job, I don't think it removes 100% but it certainly helps.

With your setup I would possibly invert it so the manifold and drain are at the top and then periodically invert and empty it, maybe use some sort of a clip to mount it in order to make the job easy.

As you know those solenoids and cylinder are not cheap so you don't want any more moisture in there than you can help.

[skyquake]

Right, so it would appear I've been pretty bad at updates this year, in that it's October, and I haven't done any! Doh! Given this, you've be forgiven for thinking that I'd given up, but not so. Progress has been happening (albeit slowly).

The first part of this year was slow going, as the cooker broke and the Girlfriend diagnosed that we needed a new kitchen. So that sucked up the first few months. Since then, it's been fairly steady progress.

So, first things first, I need to take a bit of a step backwards. I don't think I've talked about suspension and brake setup yet. This is going back a little while, so I'll recap.

My Kit from Angus @ Equilibrium was supplied with the usual Rally Design Cortina uprights, which suffered from the usual problem with tapered sleeve tolerances. How they're still putting out junk like this I don't know, as there are countless examples of this on this forum alone. After three attempts at fixing the problem, I sent the whole lot back to them in disgust for a refund.

Having decided some time previously that I wanted to use the British manufactured HiSpec brakes all round, I opted to buy their Cortina upright instead. I actually opted for the Cortina upright with the Sierra hub, as I didn't like the idea of having to pull the wheel bearing apart every time I wanted to take the brake disc off/change it. It's the same 4x108 fitment as the donor focus, and so the only real is a difference in offset. More details on my suspension setup thread if you're interested.

It's a nicely manufactured item, with none of the tolerance issues identified on the RD version. It doesn't feel as cheap, either. That said, there are two problems with them. Firstly, the axle and wheel hub is secured with Nyloc nuts. For a high performance or track vehicle, I can't say I'm keen on this as an idea, due to the fact that an overheating brake or bearing could easily cause the nylon insert to degrade and then in a short period of time you're looking at a missing wheel.  As such, I think I may have to look into replacing this with a castellated nut, or similar.

Secondly, the steering arm is quite different to that on the RD upright, and sits much higher. Having tuned my rack position for the RD upright, this gave me a load of unwanted bump steer. In the end I ended up raising my rack by another 30mm on spacers, in order to compensate. So, they're not perfect, but overall, I'm happy with them. That said, I would urge anyone else to look elsewhere, as while the quality of HiSpec’s equipment is very good, as a company, they’re the biggest bunch of muppets I have ever had the displeasure of dealing with. By far one of the most unpleasant customer experiences I’ve ever had. My advice = Avoid!

The rest of the steering linkage was fairly straight forward. You've already seen my modification to the steering column position, and from there all I needed was a 300mm steering extension from RD, and a matching universal joint. Due to where I wanted to put the support bearing, I found the easiest way of attaching the two was to cut the flattened tube off the end of the steering column, and weld the extension directly into it.

For anyone else attempting the same thing, be aware that the flattened tube is rubber mounted in the steering column UJ, so you need to be careful welding and make sure it cools after each tack, to make sure you don't destroy the rubber.

In order to save a bit of weight over the large pillow block bearings, I eventually selected an Igus polymer bearing (EFSM-15) for my mechanism support. The angle range of this bearing isn't as good as some of the metal ones, so I had to mount it on an angled plate, to make sure it worked in all possible positions of the column.

Next on the agenda was mounting of my Radtech radiator, so the glass fibre went back on so that I could position it right behind the front grille. I then had some brackets made up, and extended the chassis forward with four sections of inch box, angled to match the grille.

The end result starting to look a bit like a car!

Next, if you ended up reading my thread about the Sonic suspension, you’ll know that I ended up doing quite a bit of tinkering with my rear suspension setup in order to make sure that the vehicle could be properly levelled while maintaining a near 50/50 bump/droop ratio.

Condensed down, this involved in inboard shift of the upper coilover mount, and a redesigned upright with a raised bearing position. This being somewhat off-piste, obviously I wasn’t expecting Angus to supply any of it (although he was good enough to supply the bearing bosses for me), and so I had all the parts made up, and welded them up myself.

The final result gave me very nearly the setup I was looking for, and actually came out pretty well! The end product being the Wraith sitting on its four corners for the first time!

Ok, that’s it for now, but there’s plenty more I haven’t written up yet. I’ll try and be a bit more pro-active with updates, but no promises!

[skyquake]

Right, so while I’m in the zone, I thought I’d do another big update.

So, centre tunnel and handbrake lever next. Due to how close my seats are together, my tunnel was going to have to be very narrow. However, having gotten rid of the gearlever previously (hadron system), I only had the handbrake mechanism to worry about.

As such, I designed a small angled tunnel, in two parts such that it could be removed fairly easily with the seats left in place. In order to attach it, had a number of folded brackets made up, welded them to the chassis with fitted weld nuts on the inside. The handbrake lever itself was attached to a tapping plate added to the top of the centre beam.

The most difficult bit of this was getting it to fit around my modified seatbelt mountings in the centre, with sufficient room for the belts to move without causing damage. Unfortunately this involved welding two folded sections into the main piece, and I discovered in the process that my abilities to weld thin aluminum are going to need a little work!

I then used a hydraulic clamp to secure the handbrake cables at the rear. This is slightly unconventional, but the plastic ends on my cables had taken a bit of a pounding, and this seemed a more reliable method of securing them.

Sonic owners will have spotted the new upright section I’ve added at the centre of the firewall. This was an afterthought I put in after relocating my upper seat belt mountings from the roll hoop to the upper cross member, just to share the forces out between the upper and lower cross members. Probably not necessary, but better safe than sorry!

Right, on to the next major job, the wiring. This was an absolute pig. I had completely underestimated just how difficult this was going to be to tackle. As you know, I’m sticking with the standard ST170 ECU, and trying to use the standard fuse board to take care of lighting and ancillaries. I’m also doing a full dry build first, so wasn’t even trying to get the damn thing to work at this stage. Nevertheless, just trying to break the loom up into its physical component parts was a nightmare. To separate it up just so that you can run the wires in the directions you need to, you have to cut a shed load of wires.

I’ve got a brother wire labelling machine, and I very carefully labelled each side of every cut I made. I put all the things I didn’t think I needed to one side, (but didn’t cut anything off!) and positioned each piece of the system where I wanted it. I then connected everything up that I thought I needed, and in doing so found that everything I had already positioned was wrong. For example, I put the ECU on the RHS of the vehicle, intending to put it outside of the cabin. Unfortunately, due to my previously described redesign of the side panels, this meant there was simply no way of getting the ECU out again once the side panel was attached. Hence, unplug everything and reposition it again!

By this point I’m starting to find labels kicking around on the floor that have come off of the wires. ‘Headlight Connection 5’ may seem like a logical name when you’ve labelled both sides of the cut, but once the labels are on the floor, you’re more or less boned!

Now, I’ve got my mostly useless Haynes guide (doesn’t cover the ST170), and of course casesensitive 's spreadsheet, which is really useful, but I have to admit I was getting pretty demoralised by this point. I had gone well beyond the point of no-return, and all I had was a major birds nest to show for it! The end didn’t seem to be in sight! I had literally spent weeks and weeks going nowhere at this point!

It was at this point a lucky google search took me to the main dealer’s wiring book, hosted at ftp.idm.ru/pub/ffclub/2003_5_Focus_WD.pdf (for some reason, I can't post an FTP link?!).   At first glance, if you skip ahead to the diagrams, it’s totally meaningless junk. However, if you read the first chapter (which explains how the rest of the book works), it suddenly becomes clear, and actually, this was all I needed. Once you understand how the book works, it’s brilliant. The colour coding is consistent with the vehicle, and every variant of focus is catered for. With this behind me, I was able to trace every loose wire, and diagnose the cockups I’d made guessing wires which the labels had fallen off!  Of course, it's over 800 pages, so I suggest you stick it on a laptop instead of printing it!

So the wiring's not finished yet, by a long shot, but I’m now at the point where I’ve positioned each of the major components, and the system is talking to me. I have warning lights, the OBDII is giving me data and the engine turns over on the starter, so that’ll do me for now.

In the images above, you’ll see that I was planning on keeping the charcoal filter system. Unfortunately however, I didn’t realise that the actual filter itself was separate from the solenoid, and is attached to the fuel tank on the focus. So this becomes the second part I’ve needed from the donor vehicle that I’ve thrown away! So, I’ll be ditching the solenoid now!

Next update will be on the cooling system.

[goliath]

I tried to PM you but was not successful!

I read through your build thread and notice it hasn't been updated in a while, have you got any further with the build?

Do you mind if I ask you some questions as I am part way through a sonic st170 build and have hit a few stumbling blocks!

An easy one to start with, can you tell me the specs of the radiator you used? I note it is a radtec one but couldn't see any mention of the size specs? Also if you have got thecar finished, have you found theradiator is up to the job?

Thanks
George

[skyquake]

Hello all,

Ok, so firstly, another of my (now getting famous) apologies for a belated post! This time I've beaten my own record over a year (how did that happen?)!

So, I'll start with George's answers, and then move on from there.

The radiator I selected is the thicker 60mm version of Radtec's Standard Universal Radiator, which is based on a VW Polo/Golf radiator. Link here.

I am hoping that this radiator will be over-specification for the ST170 motor, but I was advised that some additional cooling capacity wouldn't go amiss with the NOs kit installed. As for whether I've got the car on the road yet, and tested the radiator, er, no. I admire and appreciate the optimism, but I'm ticking along much slower than that!

Right, so back to the update on the rest of the cooling system which was promised!

The radiator you already know about. I opted for a Pro-Series Aluminium header tank from Autospecialists, in sexy satin black, which I have mounted as high as possible in the engine bay next to the relay box.







I'm trying to use the standard pipe configuration, so I've retained the heat exchanger on the oil filter, and used the Focus 'flow restrictor' splitter pipe tucked up behind the firewall in front of the exhaust manifold. Some heat shielding here is likely to be necessary!







Silicone hoses are essencial, but it took me absolutely ages to find some which match my Neon Yellow highlights scheme. Most of the companies offer a flat yellow, but after obtaining samples from all of them, it was only JSPerformance which came close to the colour I wanted.

JSPerformance offer kits of hoses for the ST170 (and many other models), but not all of these hoses were useful, due to the new location of many of the bits. Fortunatly JS are very good about you picking and choosing from the sets, so I ended up with a custom order of just the hoses from the kit I wanted, plus a load of standard bends and lengths.

The only area where the silicone hoses caused me significant difficulty was the inlet to the water pump, which is a very complex hose on the ST170. In order to do this, I used a aluminum Tee for the return the the header tank, and then dropped down with a 90 deg bend. This joins a 60 deg bend before going into an 32-35mm enlargement. Finally, 135deg elbow is used to go back into the water pump.

One more part is required, as the large pipe from the flow restrictor needs to be join the return pipe just before the 135 deg elbow. I didn't have room to do this with an aluminium Tee pipe, so I used a Revotec self sealing hose take-off instead.





I'm using alminium tubes wherever I have straight runs (as they're lighter than the silicone), and supporting them on brackets, using a mixture of tool clips and P-clips as the attachment method. The tool clips will be cable-tied closed on the final assembly, but up until then they allow me to remove and re-fit the pipes easily, as required.





The major complication with the system is the heater. Due to the fact that I'll be using the car in the UK, I think that a heater is vital! As such, I've invested in a CBS 5.2kW Car Heater Kit, which I plan to run to four little vents in the dash (where your hands are), and it can dump hot air on your feet, which will also be useful!





I've mounted it on the underside of the dash panel, below the bonnet air tunnel. As this looks like a air trap waiting to happen, I've looped the incoming pipe up and through a bleed point to make sure I can get the air out of it.



The biggest problem I made for myself was wanting to cut the flow of water to the heater unit. The last thing you want in summer is two boiling hot pipes circulating water just above your legs, so I added a CBS Cable Operated Heater Valve into the input pipe.



This caused me a problem, as the standard focus water circuit has the heater matrix and the oil/water heat exchanger in series (one after the other); hence by stopping the feed to the heater, I would also prevent the heat exchanger from working.

Now it would certainly be possible to Tee off the Heater from the heat exchanger feed, but this would then result in both pipe runs going through a single choke point where they come out of the thermostat housing, which I didn't want. On the ST170, there is an unused port on the housing, which is blocked with a plug (I have no idea what this is for). Shown in the bottom left of this picture.



As such, I decided to drill the bung and use it as an attachment point for the heater matrix. However, when I start this, it became clear that the plug was quite narrow, and the largest drill hole I could get through it would be less than 5mm, still a signifcant choke point. Fortunatly, my old man has a lathe, and a couple of hours and a piece of brass hex bar later, I had an alternative solution. Tapping the port formly used by the plug.









So that's about all there is to say about the cooling system. I've can only hope that it works, but it certainly looks cool!



No promises this time, but I will try and make the next update quicker than a year!

[skyquake]

Ok, hello all.

So, silver linings and all that, it has to be said that enforced isolation is a golden time for the home car builder! Not only do I have time on my hands to work on the car, but also all those little distractions and chores that the Girlfriend usually springs on me are severely limited! "No dear, we can't redecorate the hallway, we don't have any paint." "No dear, we can't go out and buy paint, because it's non-essencial, and Boris says no," and so on and so forth! I am making loads of progress!

What I clearly haven't been progressing with however, is keeping this blog updated. So, as of now, my quarantine resolution is to try and get up to date before the lockdown is over.

My last update was on the cooling system, but this is actually slightly out of sequence, because looking back at the thread, I never finished the exhaust story which I started in Jan 2018 (how does time fly!). So at the end of the Jan post, I had modified the mainfold, and positioned the silencer, but not a lot more.

Having the major elements positioned enabled me to fill in all the gaps. I'm using a Jetex universal Cat between the manifold and silencer, with a small flexi joint to take out any movement. The jetex Cat has only one lambda boss, and it wasn't in a great position, so I've capped that off and added two more bosses of my own.













I wouldn't say my stainless welding is pretty, but it should be functional!

As for the exhaust tips, I welded these onto the 180deg bends and hung them from a vib mount on the tow hitch upright. I think it looks the part!





The finishing touch was the Aventador inspired exhaust shroud. I designed what I wanted in CAD, and had a flat blank cut in thin stainless. Work couldn't do the folding though, as this was too unusual for our break press, so I did all the folding myself in the vice! I had two blanks made, as I was fully expecting to cock the first one up, but actually, it turned out well on the first attempt!











Ok, so that just about wraps it up for the exhaust.

Next thing, bodywork. So, if you've been reading this thread from the start, you may remember that I've mucked about with the suspension mounting points, and am using abnormal uprights and coilovers. As I result, I ended up getting body panels from Angus with no cutouts in them, to make sure that I could make my own cutouts where I wanted them. Up until now, I've been using a scrap set of side panels to set positions etc, but given where my build had got too, I decided it was time to graduate to the real thing.

So, I loosely fitted most of the panels and spent ages getting them lined up (takes quite a bit of time to get everything right!), before drilling off an pinning the side panels in place. I then had the conundtrum of how to get the cutouts in the correct places without being able to fit the suspension (obviously!). This was more difficult than I had envisaged (hats of to Stuart!), but I eventually came up with a method of marking the centre point of each cutout, using a machined foam block (more on that later) to set the angle and height of a pencil.



Obviously I needed a different foam block for each different angle of wishbone, driveshaft, steering rack and shock absorber. Anyway, this gave me a pilot hole in the center of travel of each item, and then it was just a case of using the circle drill to make a small holes into bigger ones, and linking them up. Fitting the suspension, fettling and so on. In the end, I managed to do all of the suspension holes with only one in the wrong place, which I'm calling a big victory! The one that's wrong is only 10mm out, so I think I'll just even up the one on the other side, and no-one will ever know!





Ok, that's all for now, but stay tuned. I have something special for you coming up in the next update!

[wishful4444]

This post is for skyquake's girlfriend

I feel it is incumbent upon me to inform you that you are being misled. Hardware stores are open and diy stores will deliver.
I suggest you look at the colour cards, select the paint and inform skyquake that he will be decorating over the Easter Holiday.

[skyquake]

Hey Wishfull, shhhhh! Don't tell her that!

Anyway, it rather looks like I'm going to manage two posts within a month, something of a new personal best! In this update, I promised you something special, and I plan to deliver. This involves telling a story, so if you're not up for reading several paragraphs, scroll down to the pictures and you'll get the point!

So, here goes. Several years ago now, the company I work for invested in a large format CNC router (one of the biggest in the country at the time), a really good investment. Unfortunately, they decided to cut corners on hiring staff to operate it, and bought the cheapest and worst possible piece of software on the market to run it. Having done a bit of CAM at university, I decided to stick my oar in, thinking I knew more about it than anyone else.

At the time, introduction of the Router was being managed by one of our older Production Engineers, who wasn't particularly impressed with my 'assistance'. Long story short, I was of the opinion he didn't have a clue about computer controlled machines, and he was of the opinion that he'd been using machines all of his life, and I didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Opinions were politely exchanged and I was left with no doubt that my help in this are would not be necessary!

As it happens, time would tell that both of us were right, and neither of us really knew anything much about it!

Anyway, the result of this was that I decided I needed to learn more about CAM and CNC use, and embarked on a research project during my own time. As part of my research, I came across a forum in the states of people who were building their own CNC tools using relatively low cost components. An idea formed, that I could actually build one and teach myself how to use it.

I bought a kit of parts, for around £300, which gave me all of the stepper motors, control components and power supplies, and I designed a router table using low cost polymer linear slides and MDF structure. The only other items required were a vacuum cleaner to extract the dust (which I already had), a 'spindle' (the router itself), and some software.

























Mk1 was quite a learning curve! After building it, there was quite a bit of time spent in setting the software up and getting it working, but believe it or not, the damn thing works!

That said, Mk1 had a number of mechanical problems, and was too inaccurate. There was too much play in the linear slides, and the design was quite mechanically disadvantaged. Circles came out as ovals and things like that.

Mk2 improved the situation by reducing the play in the Zaxis, but still didn't fix the issues. I'm now up to Mk3, as I've invested in some proper linear slides and redesigned the gantry which holds the router.





So, I now have a fully working 3-Axis CNC router in the garden shed!

The icing on the cake of this particular story is that I had managed to get the Mk1 version of my machine running before work had managed to get their professional one working properly! Hah!

Anyway, why is this relevant for a kit car blog? Well, because there are loads of things you can build with it!

Bodywork

You may have seen from some of my early CAD images that I have a dirty great K&N filter stuck on top of the engine block. This required a big cutout in engine cover, and a hood over the top. How do you build such a hood accurately? You use your DIY CNC router to build a mould, of course!

To do this, I designed a mould of the hood, and split it up into 2" segments, which could be cut out of foam. I then used the CNC to cut the styrofoam in layers, and re-assembled them to form the mould. Here's a video of the machine in action!













With the foam glued and sanded, I put a thin layer of body filler over the top (to smooth out the little inconsistencies), and coated it in a beeswax release agent. I then laid-up the glass fibre over the mould.







After curing, I then had to get the mould out of the hood, and this wasn't easy. I clearly didn't use enough release agent, as the mould was a complete pig to get out. I ended up pretty much destroying the mould in the process, so it's a good thing I managed to get a usable hood the first time around! After trimming and standing, I then coated the hood in gel coat, which didn't work at all! I underestimated how thick the gel coat was, and it finished up with all of the brush marks still in. I therefore sanded most of it back off again!











Learning from this experience, the next one of these that I do will definitely be a female mould. The male mould worked, but only just, it would have been far easier with a female. Guess that's part of the learning process!

The final stage of the process was to bond wooden blocks onto the hood to give me a feature to attach to. I did this in six places, and then finished off with some glass fibre filler, to give me a nice edge.





It occurs to me at this point that I've missed some fairly crucial information! The standard sonic engine cover is not big enough for the ST170 motor inlet manifold, it grounds out on the throttle body and is too close in a couple of other places. As such, I also had to modify the engine cover, to get it all to line up with the new hood & miss the motor.



Now this was quite difficult to do, as what I needed to do was remove a 100mm segment of the indented part of the engine hood, and fill it back in again, extending the curve of the hood rearwards. But because of the downright sexy body lines on the Sonic, this is a complex, compound curve. In the end, what I came up with was an in situ mould, using a flat piece of plywood at the rear, and a thin sheet of HDPE, spread over the top. I shaped the plywood with a matching curve, as best I could, and then spread the plastic sheet down smoothly. HPDE is an oily self-lubricating plastic, and hence wasn't likely to stick to the epoxy. I used teflon tape on the plywood.







Once the mould was completed, I brushed in the gel coat, and laid up the glass fibre.



Now, how's about a bit of audience participation on this here thread, with a little competition!? I made one critical error when I did this, that I would never have seen coming, and I've already told you what it was.

Answers on a post-card please, and kudos to the first person to figure it out! I'll reveal all in the next update.

So, there you go. I promised you something special in this update! Did I deliver adequately?

[kiwicanfly]

Well impressed

[wishful4444]

Good day skyquake

That is highly impressive! I particularly like the use of the games controller.
That said it doesn't get the decorating done does it.
Never mind it appears the lockdown continues so you have plenty of time yet.