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Post by gwnwar on Oct 27, 2017 18:05:24 GMT
If you can use the same type of locking fasteners when mounting the turbo to manifold or safety wire the nuts in place to keep then from loosening..
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Post by SeanW on Oct 30, 2017 15:48:01 GMT
Waiting for a set of Stage 8 M10x1.50 25mm locking bolts to mount the turbo. (They arrive tomorrow.) I have a set of M10x1.50 bolts I could use temporarily but I’m in no rush and swapping the fasteners out later would be a significantly bigger pain in the butt than waiting a day. In the mean time, I’m contenting myself with clean up work on the harness. I’m banishing electrical tape wrap and pulling out leads that no longer serve any purpose. TechFlex braided nylon split-wrap and Tessa high-temp cloth friction tape for the win! Should keep things tidy while making the wiring loom easily serviceable. The last pic on this set is of my solution for having busted the crap out of the thermostat housing. We’ll see if it leaks under pressure or not. I half expect that it will.    |
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Post by SeanW on Nov 3, 2017 0:04:59 GMT
I’m just going to fast forward this project to today with a couple bits of video... First run fire up after the head replacement... And then we get to this... Have a few more small things to sort out still but things are looking reasonably good now. |
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Post by bornwild on Nov 9, 2017 18:53:58 GMT
Hi Sean,
I have a few questions for you regarding the SB100/CHP/DMV process which I hope you can clarify:
- Did you have to show the DMV/CHP anything regarding the donor vehicle such as the title, VIN etc.?
- In order to pass the CHP check or satisfy the SB100, do you have to have the original gauge cluster? I plan on using a custom set of gauges. Are any gauges a legal must have for SB100?
- In order to pass the CHP check or satisfy the SB100, did you have to use the original steering column stalks? I plan on making a custom switch box for the indicators/lights/wipers.
Thank you!
Nermin
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Post by SeanW on Nov 10, 2017 5:30:56 GMT
Hi Sean, I have a few questions for you regarding the SB100/CHP/DMV process which I hope you can clarify: - Did you have to show the DMV/CHP anything regarding the donor vehicle such as the title, VIN etc.? - In order to pass the CHP check or satisfy the SB100, do you have to have the original gauge cluster? I plan on using a custom set of gauges. Are any gauges a legal must have for SB100? - In order to pass the CHP check or satisfy the SB100, did you have to use the original steering column stalks? I plan on making a custom switch box for the indicators/lights/wipers. Thank you! Nermin Soo...I’ll preface my answer with so far everybody I’ve talked to has had completely different experiences with SB100. My answers may or may not apply to your situation. - I didn’t really need to show the DMV or the CHP anything regarding my donor. That said, I did have a junk slip from the DMV for the donor. The officer doing my inspection didn’t even bother checking the VIN numbers on the engine or transmission but others I’ve talked to have had the officer climb under their cars to check. Your mileage may vary here but it’s better to have documentation and not need it than to not have documentation and be asked for it. - I don’t know if you need the original gauge cluster or not, I certainly had mine and only replaced I’d completed SB100. When you’re go to have your brake and light inspection performed you’ll have to demonstrate some features that are just easier to do if you’ve got the stock cluster installed. (High beam, brake warning, etc...) - I still have the standard stalk for my head lights/turn signals but I removed the stalk for my wiper. That was a mistake because in order to pass the BAR ref inspection they made me build and install windshield wipers on the car. It would have been a little easier on me if I’d kept all of that circuitry in the car. My philosophy with regard to SB100 was to stay as stock as possible until after SB100. |
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Post by SeanW on Nov 10, 2017 6:50:43 GMT
Because I can’t seem to not break my car at every turn...  To clear up a bit of space in my wiring tray I decided to shorten the ECU harness. That went off the rails, exploding into a full on rewire of the harness. This is my project life, a relatively simple thing becomes a major project. For the record, the ECU harness in a NA8C is 6.5 feet long and weighs just a shade under 27 ounces. Trimmed it down to 2 feet, cutting just a bit over 16 ounces out of it. I’ve pulled another 12 ounces out of it in other random clean-up around the loom just short of the full-on rewire which is pending the delivery of some parts. (micro-relays, fuses boxes, and a bus bar) To clear up space inside of the wiring tray and make the ECU a little more accessible for tuning, I’m moving it out of the wiring tray and will mount it underneath the tray. I’ve cut out the stock internal fuse box and will be replacing it with two Bluesea Systems split 12 circuit boxes with ground busses. This will give me six circuits each in always hot, run/acc, run/start, and run configurations. I’m also throwing a 12 position power distribution bus for the VREF runs rather than the zillion splices. I’m also swapping all of the relays for micro relays primarily for space/packaging reasons. I’ve modeled up what the wiring tray should sort of look like when I’m done.  Once I’ve got the power and ground distribution sorted out, I’ll start out at the extremes of the car and work it all backward into the ECU. It’s going to be super tedious but totally worth it when it’s done. I hope. As a small, related side project to this I’m swapping out the NA8C throttle body for an NB throttle body to help clean up the intercooler piping and reduce at least two potential sources of boost leaks. The NB throttle body was pretty cheap, $60 on eBay for the complete unit with idle control valve. Unfortunately it didn’t come with the correct plug for the IAC valve so I needed to pick one up. You can buy them online for $24 bucks but I chose to spend a quiet Sunday morning at my local scrap yard search for the correct connector in the wild. I happen to know that the specific connector for the for the NB throttle body was used for various applications on no less than 95 different models of cars in the US market. The easiest car to find them on are on V6 Ford Contours since they seem to use the same idle air control valve. I found and bought four for $4 each.    A further bit of junk yard surfing has also netted six LS truck coils for a future ignition upgrade project.  |
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Post by exocetjunkie on Nov 11, 2017 14:53:02 GMT
Question,
Your shock spacers on the back axel. How did you get the bolts to work without the spacer mounting bolts and the top hat bolts hitting eachother?
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Post by SeanW on Nov 12, 2017 1:30:00 GMT
Question, Your shock spacers on the back axel. How did you get the bolts to work without the spacer mounting bolts and the top hat bolts hitting eachother? I cut the bolts on the top hats with an angle grinder. |
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Post by SeanW on Nov 15, 2017 6:54:08 GMT
Small progress update. I’ve started to put the wiring back together, pretty happy with how it’s turning out so far. Pretty much going together in the way that I’d planned out out thought I have changed the orientation of the micro relays and LC-2 for better service access and cable routing. I’m leaving enough space off the end of the row of relays to easily add up to four more if necessary down the road. The ECU is mounted under the wiring tray by way of nutserts  The four micro relays will replace the fuel pump, running light, horn, and one other relay I can’t remember off the top of my head at the moment. (They’re each rated for 30A @ 13v)  And for a “before” reference to get a better idea of where all of this is going...  |
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Post by SeanW on Nov 25, 2017 8:08:34 GMT
The wiring project is done. Car is running again. Massive number of extra ground runs cleaned up. All lights work as they should. The chaos that was my wiring harness has been tamed. Much easier to work on now.  Currently working on putting the gauges back in and adding a few more. Not thrilled with the lack of matching in my gauges but that’s a thing to obsess over later.  |
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Post by bornwild on Nov 29, 2017 21:14:45 GMT
Sorry for the silly question; what size riv-nuts did you end up using mainly for all the attachment points? Also, awesome work on the wiring. Might need to ask you for help (compensated with beer of course) early next year.
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Post by SeanW on Nov 29, 2017 21:19:25 GMT
Sorry for the silly question; what size riv-nuts did you end up using mainly for all the attachment points? Also, awesome work on the wiring. Might need to ask you for help (compensated with beer of course) early next year. Depends on the application. For the wiring tray and trans tunnel cover used and tail lights I used M5s, for the intercooler mount I used M8s. Most everything else I used M6s. Doing tap me to help with your electrical until I can prove that my car will run reliably after I haves the crap out of its harness!  |
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Post by bornwild on Nov 29, 2017 21:30:55 GMT
Sorry for the silly question; what size riv-nuts did you end up using mainly for all the attachment points? Also, awesome work on the wiring. Might need to ask you for help (compensated with beer of course) early next year. Depends on the application. For the wiring tray and trans tunnel cover used and tail lights I used M5s, for the intercooler mount I used M8s. Most everything else I used M6s. Doing tap me to help with your electrical until I can prove that my car will run reliably after I haves the crap out of its harness! Sounds good; let me know if you need some help and I'll try to learn along the way  What thickness is all the tubing on the exocet? |
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Post by SeanW on Nov 29, 2017 21:33:56 GMT
Depends on the application. For the wiring tray and trans tunnel cover used and tail lights I used M5s, for the intercooler mount I used M8s. Most everything else I used M6s. Doing tap me to help with your electrical until I can prove that my car will run reliably after I haves the crap out of its harness! Sounds good; let me know if you need some help and I'll try to learn along the way What thickness is all the tubing on the exocet? Don’t know the wall thickness off-hand. The main tubes are 1.75”, Everything else is either 1” round or 1” square tube. Exomotive may list wall thickness on their site. |
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Post by bornwild on Nov 30, 2017 17:44:47 GMT
Sounds good; let me know if you need some help and I'll try to learn along the way What thickness is all the tubing on the exocet? Don’t know the wall thickness off-hand. The main tubes are 1.75”, Everything else is either 1” round or 1” square tube. Exomotive may list wall thickness on their site. Found it, 0.095" (~2.4mm) for anyone else interested. |
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