PhoCup's 408 Exo Build

[phocup]

Nov 1, 2016 20:22:37 GMT nickmpower said:

I might have an extra bolt you could have

Cool, thanks!  Where in the bay area are you located ?   I'm gonna look around the garage once more later today but if I can't find it, I'll PM you.

[gwnwar]

phocup.. Looking good so far.. The adjustment bolts on the front of the PPF to trans are for the angle of the driveshaft, trans to diff.
You want just a degree or 2 of preload on the U joints. not a straight run. This will also move the gear selector up/down. Looks like yours is full high/up..

[phocup]

Thanks Gwnwar.   I previously knew the PPF could move around a bit for fitment but assumed when bolts are in / tightened then its all aligned.   Looking into it now, I see the proper way with Miatas is to measure off the two frame rails .. which IMO isn't always going to work having seen some mangled frame rails from the 'stanced' crowd.

How would you align this for 1 or 2 deg of preload in an exo ?

[gwnwar]

You could use a piece of string from the side center of trans and diff flanges want it just off straight line.. almost straight..
And install the Z bracket too when done..

[Fin]

I'm struggling to understand the gearbox/PPF/diff alignment & "pre-loading" issue. I thought at first you were talking about lateral alignment, but when looking for PPF info, stumbled across this, which infers vertical alignment, which probably gels with gwnwar's point about your gear lever mount looking high.

If the example below is valid, is the measurement from the bottom of the PPF to the top of the MX5 chassis rails the same as to the top of the Exocet chassis?

www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55139

[phocup]

A new day .. a new problem .. 





Switch gears to installing the shocks so I could have a rolling chassis and looks like the rear bolt is a TIGHT fit.  I even made sure one of the flat side of the hex was next to the bolt to take up as little space as possible and it still slanted.  I fear the bolt may snap when I tighten the nut.  Or worse yet, bend now, and snap later during a hard corner.  Any advice ?  Or does it seem like manufacturing defect ?

[gwnwar]

Fin.. That is for MX5. If you remove Z bracket and loosen the bolts then move trans tail shaft up/down you will see the angle at U joints change. You can put more then needed angle on shaft but it is not like setting up a 4X4 pickup that is all jacked up.. If you really what to mess your mind google "adjusting drive shaft angle" A lot of that is for pickups with big angles. Don't over think this..

[gwnwar]

Do you have the slots on the flat surface of the adapter on the bottom pointing outside when installed..
There is always a cutoff wheel to trim the stud length.

[phocup]

Actually the image was taken with the shock out of the car. I also tried it both way with the same results.

I'll ping the Exomotive folks with this issue.

[phocup]

I didn't want to cut into my new shock.  Bolts are easily replaceable though.   Will probably look for a lower profile bolt with the same grading to replace.   For now it works for my rolling chassis.

[gwnwar]

How would it fit with nut on bottom and lock washer on top under bolt..

[SeanW]

I'll see if I can get photos of mine tonight, I had to cut the bolts on my coilovers. I talked to Steadfast about it a while ago at a Cars and Coffee just before I really got into the meat of my build, he had the same issue. It's ugly but sometimes the ugly things have to be done.

[phocup]

Thanks Sean. I think steadfast cut the shock stud bolts too.

GWNWAR, I put the bolt in upside down after reading Warren's post here

regarding the rear studs interfering, you are supposed to put the top bolts in (threads facing up), then install the shock tophat. You should have plenty of room. There's no reason to reverse the position of the nut, as it will lead to interferences as you have found.

I'm thinking of replacing those bolts with the socket cap low profile bolt here.

[phocup]

Circling back on the PPF alignment issue gwnwar, do you have any thought on alignment using a level like Ryan @ Goodwin did here ?

[phocup]

This week was a lot of running around with not much done. Got my wheel and tires mounted, then decided I need ARP stud ( should have just listened to Colin .. doH! ) so that's ordered. Last night got my old studs pressed out so its ready to go, now I'm thinking of repacking the bearing with racing grease while I wait.

Also am about to start on doing the brake / fuel lines, so have a few questions about that job.

Are we supposed to use the same 3/16 cunifer lines for both brake / fuel ? I noticed while under the car removing the ebrake that the 3 fuel lines on my 93 seem to be bigger than the 1 brake line going toward the rear.

What is the best way to do this ? Shape the lines one at a time first before cutting and flaring ?