|
|
Post by mawdo81 on Jun 14, 2016 9:17:17 GMT
I'd consider building and welding on any brackets, trimming panels to fit etc before powder coating...I'd do that next time. Was a bit keen to get the coating done and it's limited options down the line...
|
|
|
|
Post by rumm on Jun 15, 2016 16:46:13 GMT
All, Sorry for the delay in response, I spent a long weekend out of town and haven't had a chance to reply. A few small status updates with the few hours I was able to work on it yesterday. I stopped at the store and picked up some 0.25 inch flat steel to keep on hand for seat rails. I also started trimming and drilling out the front and rear bulkheads to prepare them for installation. I have been debating ordering a FM-II no-electronics turbo kit and a Megasquirt ecu. I have been told that I since I am going to register via the SB100 process, that I don't need to have CARB approved parts, but I'm still a bit nervous over it. I'm not sure if it would be better to stay as stock to get registered and then move forward with the upgrades. If I continue in the stock route, I will need to fix my exhaust leak and modify it to fit. Time to get rid of the tub after stripping it take VIN off dash and firewall did you remove the shock top mounts from tub. Front end to spec racer maybe tub.. You won't get but maybe $25. for it scrapped..Shipping doors and body parts cost to much have to go local.. If not working on the stang make a 4x4 wood beam frame and some large caster wheels and move it outside.. If you are allowed to were you live. Looking good so far.. , I have scheduled a pick up for the tub for Friday, I will be happy to see it go.  I went ahead and pulled the shock mounts as you recommended. I also pulled quite a few other pieces (hood, door, trunk, bumper, and top) for my roommate to eventually use on her miata. My understanding is that I don't require the VIN plates in California and that a junk slip will be sufficient (per steadfast's build). Unfortunately my roommate is working on the mustang at the same time, so we will be fighting for space in the garage for the duration, but I'm pretty confident I can make it work. Rumm...There is a black powdercoat that is a hammer black. BK-62 is the industry number used. It is a textured powedercoat that looks great on a tube chassis car frame. I have a few example photos if you want to see? , I would love to see a few example photos. I googled the color a bit, but I couldn't find any good images of it on a tube chassis. I'd consider building and welding on any brackets, trimming panels to fit etc before powder coating...I'd do that next time. Was a bit keen to get the coating done and it's limited options down the line... , You hit the nail on the head, I'm very excited to get the coating completed as it is a big step in completing the project. But, I will try to take your advice and slow down and start test fitting everything. I'm also struggling to think of all the brackets that I will need to make.. So far my list is as follows: - parking brake bracket - rubber brake line to hard line brackets - rubber clutch to hard line bracket |
|
|
|
Post by mawdo81 on Jun 15, 2016 16:50:27 GMT
Any brackets for wiring, wing stays, fluid reservoirs rad brackets bodywork panels etc....
|
|
|
|
Post by jsmith on Jul 14, 2016 17:23:33 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by phocup on Jul 14, 2016 17:51:09 GMT
Hey Rumm, do you mind sharing the quote for powdercoating cost when you get it ? I've used Santa Clara Powder before for some motorcycle wheels and was happy enough with the result. It wasn't PERFECT but gloss white doesn't hide imperfections well.
Also am interested to know which service / company you used to dispose of the donor frame after its off the PPF.
|
|
|
|
Post by rumm on Jul 15, 2016 2:23:55 GMT
Hey Rumm, do you mind sharing the quote for powdercoating cost when you get it ? I've used Santa Clara Powder before for some motorcycle wheels and was happy enough with the result. It wasn't PERFECT but gloss white doesn't hide imperfections well. Also am interested to know which service / company you used to dispose of the donor frame after its off the PPF. After a few calls to Santa Clara Powder coating and not getting a response back. I gave up! I called Melrose powder coating up in Oakland and he quoted $1400 for just the chassis. At that point I decided I would rather spend the money on a few track days and painted my chassis with Rustoleum hammered black paint. It turned out "ok" ( would consider it a 10 ft paint job). It will be a very nice blend between the black rims and orange body panels though. As for picking up the chassis, I called up picknpull. They didn't give any cash for it, but was very happy it was gone. (I will add that they told me it had to be in the street for them to pick it up). Here is a picture of it going away.. They didn't get much  Hope that helps! (BTW hoping to get some more photos of my progress on here soon!) |
|
|
|
Post by phocup on Jul 15, 2016 6:19:29 GMT
$1400 .. ouch .. it makes Exomotive's $650 price sounds like a screaming deal.
Pick&Pull sounds like a good option for me too. Quick and painless. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by phocup on Jul 19, 2016 17:22:28 GMT
Actually just found out its going to cost about $1800 to get a powdered frame shipped to me in CA. So about $2500 all in all to get it powdered at Exomotive. Or $700 shipped then $1400 to powder local .. LOL. Expensive!
Can you post up pictures of the Rustoleum finish when you're done with it ? I might go that route too.
|
|
|
|
Post by steadfast on Jul 19, 2016 17:53:48 GMT
I'm going to toss this out there, as I wanted to do this to mine. But what about rhino lining it? Either take it somewhere to have done, or do it yourself. Most places even do it in colors these days.
|
|
|
|
Post by phocup on Jul 19, 2016 20:27:14 GMT
Thanks for the suggestion Steadfast. Its an option. I'm looking into that along with the POR15 paint that seems to be in favor for this type of stuff too.
|
|
|
|
Post by colin on Jul 19, 2016 21:12:37 GMT
I used the Rustoleum hammered finish grey. It was really easy to apply, and I like that I can touch it up if needed, but its not the most durable. The rivets on peoples jeans have been scratching it when getting in and out.
|
|
|
|
Post by rumm on Jul 19, 2016 21:25:14 GMT
I was planning on waiting till I got home to post pictures, but since the conversation is so popular, here is a in-progress photo.  This is the Rustoleum hammered black (note that it turns out more of a gun-metal). At first, I tried to use a roller and noticed that some of the roller was coming off into the paint. I eventually settled on using foam brushes to apply it.. I'm in the progress of doing my sub frames now, I'm planning to try some of the spray paint to see if it turns out better. colin I agree with how easy it has been to scratch, I tapped it with a chain and it took off a pretty good chunk. The small spots that I have went back and repainted have turned out to be a bit of a different color/texture, is there a special technique that should be used? |
|
|
|
Post by colin on Jul 19, 2016 21:29:24 GMT
Initially I applied everything with the spray cans, just doing the touch up with a brush. Once it fully dried it looked about the same as the rest of the frame.
|
|
|
|
Post by rumm on Jul 26, 2016 17:35:56 GMT
Hi All, I have been quite busy lately getting the paint finished up and starting assembly. I'm pretty happy with how the paint turned out. I had previously brushed the paint on to the chassis, and it wasn't as even as I had hoped. I later went back over it with a rattle can which really evened it out.. Although I am awful at painting . After completing the paint, I had a few friends help me hoist the chassis on to the subframes and bolted it down. I then installed the front bulkheads with rivets. The rivets look great, but in the process of installing them, I scratched my floor board paint.. I think I will touch this up and then cover it with grip tape or similar. Finally I made it on to the suspension. I had to order a new lower top mount bushing so I have all but one finished up.. I also noticed the front is very close to the upper control arm. After researching a bit, I found that alot of people have to trim the upper control arm. Is this required on the US chassis with shock top hats and VMAXX sport coilovers or did I install them wrong? Here are few photo updates.    |
|
|
|
Post by zeitgeist on Jul 26, 2016 19:19:40 GMT
I can't see the coil over mounts clear enough but I am using Vmaxx with shock to spacers and have no fitment issues. They are close but zero contact with 3 trackdays and street driving.
|
|
I went ahead and pulled the shock mounts as you recommended. I also pulled quite a few other pieces (hood, door, trunk, bumper, and top) for my roommate to eventually use on her miata. My understanding is that I don't require the VIN plates in California and that a junk slip will be sufficient (per steadfast's build). Unfortunately my roommate is working on the mustang at the same time, so we will be fighting for space in the garage for the duration, but I'm pretty confident I can make it work. 
