A streetcar named Broccoli (WA. USA)

[beardy]

Named after the stripper, formerly known as Candy, the car is going to be green and we miss Terry Pratchett...

We have taken delivery of chassis #188, a sport kit with double diagonal and a seriously bent 1999 Miata.  The process of mating the two was intended as a `teach the daughters about cars' and have a laugh at the same time, but I fear that garage floor has a lot less attraction than an Ipod   (although I still have some hope in this dept.).

We are located in the bottom end of Washington state.

I hope to use this thread to highlight anything odd about this particular build and ask questions of the hive.

Over the course of a few days the Miata has been stripped and relieved of wiring and mechanical bits.  A collection of bent metal currently sits on the drive.

Aside from the inevitable `go faster' goodies I need a few things like

1.8 diff carrier (or complete diff)

accelerator cable

handbrake cable

Aside from Mazda parts dealers are there any favored places for standard parts and wear and maintenance items?

Many thanks

Beardy

[zeitgeist]

Beardy. Congrats on the project and trying to teach your kids about cars. I have had good luck with Rock Auto for new parts and Treasure Coast Miata for used parts.

[gwnwar]

Beardy.. I have some parts here do you need the whole E brake set up.. just the gas cable no brackets..
Send me a Pm or email [e-mail] I am in NW Arkansas
George
gwnwar

[beardy]

Many thanks both!

[jlmoon]

Interested to follow your progress. One of the goals for my potential build is to have it be a family project for my wife and daughter and me.

[jwagner]

+1 on Rock Auto for generic new parts, and gwnwar for occasional used stuff. You should also look into joining Mazda Motorsports for OEM parts since they are much cheaper than the dealer.  Rock sends out occasional emails with specials for your specific car - not sure how to sign up for those but it is worth getting them.

My son and occasionally my daughter helped out on our build and it made a more worthwhile experience, as well as helping with the motivation level on a long project. You'll need to get over rookie mistakes like taking off pristine door cards in two pieces and putting screwdrivers through high end aftermarket speakers, etc.. My daughter used the Exocet in the autocross driver school and my son is a co-driver for both track and autocross, so it's a family thing now, which has been good.

[beardy]

Sounds ideal JW, although we are still in the withdrawal period when it comes to Ipod dependence. They look at me strangely when I suggest that they put it down.

Anyway, this most recent post is to put a call out to anyone with experience depowering the NB rack: I have gone through the process of depowering the rack but unfortunately the nut that holds the end of the rack in place is pinned by the action of a small punch. I didn't see this issue soon enough and in undoing the nut I have ripped the threads off it. A new nut from Mazda appears to cost several limbs. Does anyone know where you can buy the nut and what the part number is?

thanks

[gwnwar]

If you can't find a new nut and till you find a new rack and want to move car around cover the nut and tube threads with JB Weld
screw in the nut till flush and before JB Weld drys use center punch and stake the sleeve in about 8 places let it dry and you can move car.. Did someone say shade tree or froo engineering.. If you have to take another rack apart drill out the stake marks first..

[beardy]

Its a fair point, well made.
)

[beardy]

A quick shout out for Gwnwar for the care package of replacement parts. He is clearly a person you want around at Xmas as these were packed extremely well. - Thanks

Progress continues and I have put the chassis on the roller skate for convenience while I rebuild the back end. The crash damaged donor was cut up in an afternoon with a saber saw using a couple of GOOD blades and weighed in for scrap at the weekend. I am almost recovered.

Has anyone considered additional steel at the back around the fuel tank for impact protection? I am curious to see what others may have come up with...

Beardy.

[thestig]

I am sure you have talked with Sean Castner about what he came up with. I am not aware of any other builder tackling this issue. I plan to at some point when life quits getting in the way.

[steadfast]

My recommendation for making the rear 'impact safe' would be to add a true fuel cell (companies like Fuel Safe and ATL, not companies like JAZ). They are costly ($1k+) but are the safest bet. It also makes adding a filler neck a little easier too! It also should eliminate the fuel starvation on hard corning that some people have...

[beardy]

Many thanks.

Agreed in an ideal world a proper fuel cell and some level of deformable structure would be ideal. I know Sean got hold of a fuel cell and its an option. Jaz and others do one with a steel shell and plastic bladder but its not as good as something with a true deformable bladder. And of course there also the whole foam thing.

At the risk of eliciting all sorts of shock and awe, what about two 4 gall wedge shaped tanks behind the seats and paneled over with stainless steel to make a fire wall? behind the seats is the best place dynamically and its also about the safest point in the car from a crash perspective.

On another subject I have placed the order for a EcotecMiata kit.

[steadfast]

You could do an easy wedge, and then use a hyda-matt: www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramats/

[jsmith]

Hi Beardy,

What part of Washington are you in? I know someone down by Salem that has a 1990 miata that is left over from his car project. He said it has an open dif but it's in good condition. The car also has subframes, PPF, and steering rack. I don't think he's looking for any money, just someone to pick up the parts. Let me know if you're interested and I can PM you his contact info.

John