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Post by gwnwar on Apr 25, 2016 18:13:03 GMT
Remember to remove the shock top hats, horns, fuel filler hose and fittings you might/will use later. Also tape up the front of the
throttle body it likes to eat small objects.. Looking good stay safe have fun..
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Post by hutchey on Apr 27, 2016 18:35:51 GMT
Brilliant work. We are stuck on the same bit now and this weekend looked favorable but doesn't look like I'll get that far as I need to find all the bolts, do something with the handbrake bits and hire an engine hoist.
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Post by felixflyer on Apr 27, 2016 20:57:12 GMT
Hi
Hopefully this Saturday I will get the engine onto the stand the hoist will be free and your welcome to borrow it for as long as you need.
All depends on how the weather holds up this weekend but I don't mind dropping it down as it would only be going in the lockup out the way.
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Post by hutchey on Apr 27, 2016 21:01:21 GMT
Cheers for the offer, that would be fab. I'm a bit more worried about locating the right nuts and working out how to get to them safely as I don't rust axle stands in case they go through the sills. I must admit, my mini-me is desperate to get the body off so he can start cleaning and then repainting it.  |
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 28, 2016 3:59:30 GMT
hutchey.. If worried about rust frame after you get car up on stands put 2 tires on top of each other and slide them under the rear sub/diff and under front sub and engine. or under rockers between stands..
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Post by felixflyer on Apr 28, 2016 8:16:31 GMT
Mine was the same and after the jack went through the sills I would only use the Jack and stands under the subframe.
The nuts are fairly easy to Locate but if it is like mine you will need a big breaker bar and plenty of penetrating oil.
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Post by hutchey on Apr 28, 2016 11:58:36 GMT
I'm planning on using a big bar to break them and them my air gun to whizz them off slowly. Would it be ok to borrow the hoist to get my body off? Happy to pay "beer tokens" as they say.  ? |
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Post by felixflyer on Apr 28, 2016 12:24:28 GMT
No worries, it will only be in the way once I have lifted the engine onto the stand.
I should have that done on Saturday so could drop it round last this sat or sunday morning
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Post by hutchey on Apr 28, 2016 20:56:56 GMT
No worries, it will only be in the way once I have lifted the engine onto the stand. I should have that done on Saturday so could drop it round last this sat or sunday morning That would be brilliant. Thumbs up |
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Post by felixflyer on May 4, 2016 20:49:46 GMT
I have been stripping down the subframes and components so they can be blasted. Apart from the drop link bolts which are completely corroded its almost there. I am having trouble getting the PPF off the diff though.
I have all the bolts out and the top hat shaped spacer from the bottom. There is still a tube going from the top of the PPF into the diff.
I have read 2 ways of getting this out. One way is to put the bolt back in and pull it down, that isn't working and i'm not even sure it is threaded, I seem to be screwing back into the top spacer. The second way is to screw the bolt into this and hammer it out. The manual however says that if this comes out the PPF needs to be replaced. I have also seen you tube videos on removing the PPF where this was hammered out.
Anyone else had problems here? What method did you use?
Mike
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Post by gwnwar on May 4, 2016 22:48:59 GMT
You are trying to fit the wrong bolt to the spacer.. If you have the long bolt from the top of the Front Control Arm
screw that into the spacer from the bottom.. Before screwing it in put one of the large washers on bolt and some weight like an
old hammer head to make a slide hammer.. Or lock vice grips on bolt above washer and and hit down..
The sleeve is tapered inside so PPF bolt slides into it and pushes it up. The bottom of the taper is larger inside to take a wider bolt.. m14x1.5 bolt
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Post by sparkyman403 on May 5, 2016 5:48:04 GMT
Hi mike
I had the same problem with the sleeve after 45 mins of hammering I couldn't shift it so I resorted to taking the top hat out , I know it says don't do it but it was the only way I could go
I put bolt into top hat gently tap head of bolt top hat will come up unscrew off bolt , put bolt in top and tap down sleeve will drop , put top hat back in hole twist it you will feel it lock in to position it came out from then tap back down . When I torqued bolt up top hat never moved so I see no problem with removing it . Other people's view may differ tho
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Post by felixflyer on May 5, 2016 7:53:00 GMT
Thanks, I have the diff out of the subframe now so it's just the diff and PPF which makes it easier. I will get it on the bench and have another crack at it this weekend.
I will be glad when I can work with clean parts that for sure.
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Post by mikeeyboy on May 5, 2016 19:46:52 GMT
I also took the top sleeve off, seems like it will press back in. Not too worried about it.
Stick with it, I just got all my bits back from the coaters and it is a good feeling to start putting it back together nice and clean!
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Post by jgilbert on May 5, 2016 21:05:11 GMT
Boys, you have to get into the muck and grime before the shiny bits. But when you get there its a great feeling. Keep going!
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