North Wales Exocet build.

[pleurotus]

Looking good! Lucky for me mine is not so rusty. Thanks for the ebay tips, I'm selling locally now but ebay is next. Do you have a rule of thumb to estimate the postage costs?

Don't forget to check out electrolytic rust removal on here and Ytube.

I too have a blast cabinet but it is pristine and unused so it may stay that way based on others experience! I am also looking at the DIY powdercoat guns which seem good value for the smaller parts.

My fuel is still sitting in the original tank in the garage, figured it was the safest place for it.

When you remove the transmission watch out for galling on the steel bolts from the Alu case. I only had 1 but it damaged part of the thread despite knowing what the problem was (I have a marine background).

 

[Robin Wiggs]

Thanks for the tips on electrolytic rust removal (definitely going to give it a go), and the galling advice. I had to look up galling in a mechanical context!

I'm keen to give sandblasting a go, so I've started on the cheap home-made cabinet. A few pics are below. The gloves and perspex came from eBay and the wood is the cheapest OSB I could find. I've made it large enough to fit the rear subframe in, figuring that will give me plenty of manoeuvring space for smaller items. The whole front will hinge, instead of one wall. I'll put a couple of Alu sheets inside where the most abrasive stuff happens.

   

Should be finished tomorrow night... it would have been finished tonight, but I just had to stop early and enjoy the sunset with a cold beer...

[sparkyman403]

Hi when I did mine I made the bottom of enclosure funnel like with a plastic dustbin below to catch blast media and rust etc . I used a cheap vegetable strainer the mesh type to clean the blast media as I found the rust blocked the gun when I used it again . Also this might sound obvious but don't use your hand to see if media is coming out , takes your finger prints off a treat,I learnt the hard way

[bignik]

Cover the inside of the Perspex window with cling film, you will only have to change the cling film and not the entire window when it gets frosted from the media. I used a roll of industrial pallet wrap, worked a treat.

[Robin Wiggs]

So, here is the finished blast cabinet. In all I think it cost me about £70, if I don't include the items I had lying around - switches, cable, screws and glue, etc.


It works pretty well, although we did need to upgrade the compressor...!


It's very slow though - partly because I don't have 300 quid for a really good compressor. It would take hours to do the subframes. I think I'll do the small items and bolt heads with this, and then have the large items done externally.

It's fun though - and makes me feel like I'm starting to get a proper workshop. There's plenty of farm equipment around here that needs de-rusting and painting

I'm going to give electrolysis a go too. As that can happen whilst I'm sleeping!

[Robin Wiggs]

So, it's time for a bit of an update. The last month has mainly been about component strip down, a little playing with blasting and a test of painting primer by brush and rattle can. For those who like to read the last page of the book first, I've now got the engine on the stand, the transmission standing on its end, and pretty much all of the suspension parts apart (except hubs and balljoints).


For those who like the detail...it's in the next few posts!

[Robin Wiggs]

Firstly we got rid of the body at the local scrapyard. We'd never done this before, so it was quite fun.


I'd quite like one of these cranes to play with!





It weighed in at 280 kgs with tub and bonnet - doors and boot etc being sold. I got the princely sum of....




£11.20!! Plus as I'd forgotten my licence is away having 3 points for 35mph in a 30 zone added to it, I didn't have any photoID with me, so I still haven't been paid!

[Robin Wiggs]

Examining the skate in more detail revealed it to be in pretty good nick. I guess it's only 15 years old. I've had no trouble really with any seized bolts dismantling it all.




Actually, I did have one bolt I couldn't get off. You can see in this pic I've had to cut off the very front of one side of the rear stabiliser bar/frame... is this necessary for the Exocet assembly, or does the tubular chassis firm it all up? 



A few oil patches... is this likely to be the CAS that I've seen mentioned on other threads?



It's very tempting at this stage to just buy the frame and bolt it on! But that way the boys and I won't learn all of the valuable lessons, plus I have this unrealistic idea that I'm going to create the smoothest, shiniest, reddest Exocet that  will wow anyone who sees it...



Component strip down commences at the rear end.



And you quickly start to fill the storage space.

[Robin Wiggs]

Within about half a day, all the rear suspension parts were dismantled.

The exhaust is pretty easy to remove and comes away in sections. I'd soaked the nuts and bolts overnight in copious amounts of WD40 and they came away easily. I was so keen in this section, I forgot to take photos to help anyone else. But really it's dead easy and I didn't come across anything troublesome or that I had to think about. I'd given up on the Haynes manual by this point - because since there is no car to get in the way and everything you want to remove is very visible and exposed, it just takes lots of time to refer to the manual to be told to remove the bolts you can see in front of you!

I've still got to find some way to get the rear hubs off, having forgotten to crack the nut when it when I had weight and all four wheels on. But I'm not thinking about that challenge just yet...

Despite 15 years of heating, all the exhaust bolts came away pretty easily. I think I cleaned a few of the particularly rusty heads up with the wire brush on the angle grinder, so that the sockets could get purchase - but other than that, no probs.



In terms of tools, I have a nice set of Magnusson sockets I bought from B&Q years ago, upto a 32mm socket - I think they were maybe 70 quid. They're good for pretty much everything I've needed for years - but they are multi-sided (if that's the correct term?). If I am at all worried I might round off a head, then I used six-sided sockets once I've cleaned the head up with the wire brush tool. I bought a cheap set of impact sockets from Screwfix once I'd started the Exocet (think they were about 40 quid and one up from their most-budget brand). They've been great. The only annoying thing is the miss out some of the common sizes, like 14mm, 16mm and seem to prefer odd sizes. I tend to use them with the ratchet as I've not needed impact assistance for anything other than the subframe bolts.



I was concerned about the weight of the rear diff, and getting it off without doing my back in, or crushing my toes. But I needn't have. The whole thing was a bit unsteady as I had two stands under the PPF and two under the front subframe, but if you're careful where you put the ratchet bar when loosening nuts, then you can keep it pretty stead.

Again I was cracking on and didn't take pics - sorry. Removing the driveshaft is simple and according to the manual, then the rear diff just unbolts from the PPF.

Then it is a case of moving the support forwards to under the transmission and removing the PPF bolts.

Pretty soon you get here:




And then it is time for a beer and to admire the view for a bit. I find I do this a lot!

[Robin Wiggs]

The next stage took place once my engine hoist had arrived. It's just a cheapie from eBay and cost about £35 I think. I have learned that it comes with pretty short "arms" that screw into the engine housing. This means that the engine is not upright as you can't centre the attachment arms and one of the "locking holes" on the turning assembly. As a result I've only used three of the arms not four in order to get an upright engine. Anyone buying an engine stand should make sure the arms are of a reasonable length, or the plate they bolt into is big enough.

So I built a frame for the block and tackle to lift the engine using a decorating tower and some thick ratchet straps. I made it rectangular rather than square so that I had room inside to move and work - plus I learned the hard way recently whilst raking out some pointing on the top of a gable wall that the square frame is not as stable... ouchey!





I've got plenty of space, so I'm not planning on moving the engine on the stand so I'm hoping it won't matter that I don't have a nice smooth concrete floor like many of you!


Firstly I removed the lower subframe and steering rack assembly once the engine was lifted - NB this is probably not the safest method of work, but I was very careful not to be under anything heavy at any time. I broke the nuts previously whilst everything was safely on the ground and then leant through the tower frame with an extension bar to undo them.





Then I lowered the engine, unbolted the transmission and removed it. It is surprisingly light. I don't know if it is necessary or sensible, but I drained all the transmission fluid and engine oil prior to these steps.





I've stored it for now on end on top of some steel plate.

[Robin Wiggs]

So, you're then left with this. An engine hoisted off an ancient decorating tower. But it all seems fine!




The next step is to remove the clutchplate and flywheel so you can attach the engine stand. The clutchplate simply unbolts.

Does this clutchplate look ok, or should I replace it when I reassemble?



The flywheel is a bit more difficult, as it just turns the engine over when you try to undo the bolts.

I bolted a length of steel bar to the flywheel and used this to give me some traction.



The flywheel then comes away easily. It is then a simple case of lifting the flywheel away and storing it safely.

The engine is then hoisted and attached to the engine stand and lowered. I then removed the hoist/tower until I install the engine in the Exocet - exciting! In the meantime, I've started to strip the components from the engine. First off was the power steering pump as we won't be needing that.

I was too busy admiring the view to take a pic of the engine attached to the stand

And that's us up to date. It's really exciting and we're having lots of fun doing this. I hope the write up is helpful to anyone coming along after us - I know there are much better build threads already, but each build is a little different and someone might pick up a tip on how to do (or not do!) something from our little journey. If nothing else, it's a great record for us of what we've achieved!

[gwnwar]

Nice write up and pics.. With the rear frame brace Cut both forward arms off so that they are not forward oft he front of the sub frame..
When refilling the trans remember to fill the shift turret also it is apart from the main case.. takes 80>95cc. Check/replace (pops on)
the plastic bushing on lower end of shiftier it is a wear item..
Your clutch disc is worm replace it.. I would do whole clutch unit. with pilot brg. and throw out brg.
Check the front trans and rear engine oil seals too.. Look wet behind flywheel..
Have your flywheel surfaced too..
If you haven't already to remove the PS bracket tap the spacer to the rear of it to get socket on the rear bolt..
You don't have a CAS on rear of head just a block off plate check seal..
Stay safe have fun..

[Robin Wiggs]

Thanks gwnwar. Yep - managed to get the PS bracket off...but took me a minute to work out how to access the final bolt.

What's a "pilot brg"?

Thanks.

[gwnwar]

Pilot Bearing in the center of flywheel. Supports the trans input shift.. When you tap in new one make it just even with hole it came out of.. Use a large socket to put in don't hit the center..
Answered your stuck bolt and hub question in R16 thread

[Robin Wiggs]

I've spent the past couple of weekends removing engine components and brackets, ready for the cleaning of the engine prior to painting.

It went from this:





To this:




Next step is to attack it with the degreaser and the power washer.