Mikes Exocet build - Sheffield

[mikeeyboy]

Its a bit alarming at first how much rust there is on the sub frames but I am confident shot blasting will clean them up.

I have pretty much stripped the rear, plan is to do the back end first and get it powder coated and replace all bushing - those arrived this week. Then do the centre section before finishing on the front end.

I also stripped all 4 brake calipers off with the intention of tearing them down for a full refurb and getting those painted.

So far quite enjoying the process - quite a lot of broken bolts and bashed knuckles so far, but all good fun!

Also finally placed my order with Stuart for the new Exocet with the split front grille, best get a move on

Mike

[mikeeyboy]

Hi all. Quick question regarding the exhaust - seen as I have full access to the "skate" I am thinking now is the best time to build a new one.

My existing is pretty rusty, so was planning to replace hte whole lot with a customer stainless myself. But, looking at prices, the MK1 stainless exhaust manifolds are much cheaper than those for the MK2 that I have.

Seen as I plan to build the full exhaust will the MK1 manifold line up and fit to the 1.8?

Thanks

[trident]

I wouldn't do the exhaust until you have the chassis on. There is not that much space and if you do a custom build you what to make sure everything is in the correct space and angle. I had a Mk1 1.8 donor but used a Mk2 stainless manifold from eBay. I then got the back section custom made. my build is way back down on page 10 now but here is a link to the some of the exhaust section work.
mevowners.proboards.com/thread/3878/tridents-exocet-build?page=21

[adelaideexocet]

As trident said do it when the frame is on the skate.
Mine was done while it was off (by someone who said they could do it but obviously couldn't!) and was about 6" short
I had to make a bridging piece.
I would keep the flanges and measure/make after the two parts are together but before the other bits go on n

[mikeeyboy]

Thanks for the heads up on that, I will wait until the frame arrives then. Trident, I had seen your build and was very interested in that style of end can you used, was this also the silencer? Or did you build the silencer further back down the system?

[trident]

Mar 1, 2016 13:41:33 GMT mikeeyboy said:

Thanks for the heads up on that, I will wait until the frame arrives then. Trident, I had seen your build and was very interested in that style of end can you used, was this also the silencer? Or did you build the silencer further back down the system?

The end can / tail pipe does have some matting inside but I would not say it's a silencer. I have a 4" x 27" silencer fitted down the centre tunnel. I don't have, and didn't need a cat fitted to my car for iva so was able to use more space. With a cat fitted, I doubt with a shorter centre silencer you would get a Db A reading low enough to pass the sound test for iva.

It's upside down in this photo but this is the custom section of my exhaust that fits direct to the Mk2 down pipe. 

[mikeeyboy]

Thanks for that those photos are a massive help. I was thinking of using exactly that same type of silencer and fitting it in a similar place next to the PPF.

My idea was to run a single pipe out of where you have the long silencer and then TIG weld it into a "U" bent pipe to make twin tail pipes. The problem when you start looking at those generic silencer tubes is, the DB levels seem to be nigh on impossible to predict without building it first.

I need to replace the CAT also and had not thought about the space constraints. Back to the drawing board I reckon!

[mikeeyboy]

Does anyone have any tips on removing the bottom sleeve on the diff end of the PPF? I have all 4 bolts out and it is just the sleeve stopping it coming away.

I checked the workshop manual and it says to pry it free, have tried this and I am going to end up breaking something as it is that tight. Am I missing something?

Thanks

[snowbird1]

About the best instruction, with illustrations on how to remove the PPF is this:

www.virkki.com/jyri/miata/ppf/

If I remember right the engine to transmission bolts are M14 X 1.5 and will work to pull down the upper sleeve.

[mikeeyboy]

Thanks, I have tried the chisel method but did not get anywhere. Will have another go at it

[pleurotus]

I am yet to do this but if stuck I would use my slide hammer - assuming there is a lip inside to hook too. The slide is about the same weight as a club hammer.

[gwnwar]

If you start to chisel on the upper sleeve you will leave marks that will not allow it to move down. For the lower insert spacer
use a fat point chisel to start it moving hitting straight in or from side of the cut out.

I have made a tool to move the top sleeve down.. Used a/the long bolt that attaches the front upper control arm to the sub frame and one of the heavy washers for it. slide a weight from a slide hammer on bolt and then screw it into the sleeve from bottom. With sleeve cleaned and lubed slap it a few timed it will move down..

[snowbird1]

Mar 10, 2016 16:30:55 GMT snowbird1 said:

If I remember right the engine to transmission bolts are M14 X 1.5 and will work to pull down the upper sleeve.

Suspension bolt - Thanks gunwar - I knew there was a bolt somewhere that fitted!

[jwagner]

I managed to coax the sleeve out with a bit of effort. As I remember, it took over two hours of bashing with a 4 lb hammer and various chisels. Was sore for a couple of days after.

[mikeeyboy]

Thanks for all the tips on that, it was a pain but as everyone said, just very tight. Managed to get it knocked out and sent the ppf off for sand blasting to clean.