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Post by p2tav on Oct 17, 2017 17:40:59 GMT
hi mike,
please let me know how you get on with mounting the wheel wings as i could do with getting my head around it thanks, are you going to space them off the wheel stays or attach directly onto them? i have been toying with using a flat piece of steel and bending it to the circumference of the wheel wing and welding that to the stays to add a bit of strength and give more surface area to attach to the underside of the wings
what are you going to use ? pu Tiger grip ??
cheers,
paul
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 17, 2017 19:10:36 GMT
Thanks for clearing that Stuart, very helpful.
Paul, I'm going with the standard setup and just glueing them. I may add some additional metal to get a good surface area but not 100% decided yet.
I have just ordered today some sikaflex 221 adhesive, I did some reading and that was generally rated highly for this kind of thing. Apparently is stronger than tiger seal.
Another question for anyone - mk2 1.8 and rear fog lights? I have a connector I labelled as fog switch but I cannot for the life of me find a reference to the fog light in the wiring diagrams for a 1998 car. The only one I see is for a 2001 car?
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 21, 2017 16:10:38 GMT
Does anyone know the colour of the cable that runs for the reverse light? It's the only light I do not have working but I cannot work out what cable it was on the original car?
Wiring diagram says red/yellow but I don't have a red/yellow on the rear of my original loom.
Cheers
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 21, 2017 19:48:49 GMT
It should be R/Y that comes off the trans backup light switch.. It is part of the harness that ran alone the PPF then up into the car under the rear deck The connector should hold 6 wires.. It is not part of tail light and plate lights connector it is on the other side..
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 22, 2017 13:30:15 GMT
It should be R/Y that comes off the trans backup light switch.. It is part of the harness that ran alone the PPF then up into the car under the rear deck The connector should hold 6 wires.. It is not part of tail light and plate lights connector it is on the other side.. As usual gwnwar you were 100% correct. I had not labelled the connector up and no know what it was had hidden it under the dash no where near where it was supposed to be. I now have a reverse light  |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 24, 2017 20:18:02 GMT
It is my plan to have the car ready for IVA next month. I am pretty much done with the wiring now, just waiting on a new hazard switch. I have drilled and fitted the wheel arches which has definitely not being my favourite job but a small file and some enamel paint (recommended by Stuart) should see them looking well. I plan to bond the arches on this weekend as I am waiting on some new wheel nuts arriving. Stripped the powder coat from the stays: ![]()  First arch in place:  Once these are bonded on I am going to start fitting a digital dash unit. |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 29, 2017 22:00:17 GMT
Does anyone know the colouring for the handbrake warning cabling? Or ideally which page of the wiring diagram it is on? I am struggling to find it.
Car is a 1998 mk2 NB
Thanks
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 30, 2017 5:36:41 GMT
L/Y (blue/yellow) from dash cluster. same wire goes to parking brake switch, brake fluid level sensor.. parking sw. grounds to brake unit, level sensor grounds behind the left headlamp unit..
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 30, 2017 11:31:35 GMT
Perfect, thanks
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 31, 2017 18:00:00 GMT
Can anyone shed any light on the immobilizer on a mk2? It is proving to be the bain of my life at the minute.
The car has previously started with no issues, but went to start it today and couldn't get anything. The fuel pump is buzzing and I have a spark.
I did notice that when trying to turn it over there was absolutely zero immobiliser light on the dash, I cannot remember whether this was normal or not?
Some messing around and I sussed that the room fuse feeds the immobiliser unit, this was dead. I swapped the fuse out and now have a light with a key symbol on the dash that is permanently on. If I turn the car over the light may go out or it may stay on. But the car does not start.
Any ideas on this? Could me trying to start the car without the immobiliser being powered up cause a problem?
Can anyone 100% confirm the process that shows on the dash when you try to start the car with a functioning immobiliser?
Thanks
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 31, 2017 21:00:06 GMT
I have had a bit more of a look at this and the car starting is being directly affected by the circled connector below what is part of the throttle body. When I have this connected there is a loud buzzing sound coming from the inlet and although the car tries to start it never catches. If I disconnect this cable the buzzing noise stops and the car starts but then dies almost immediately.  |
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 1, 2017 8:49:29 GMT
I have had a bit more of a look at this and the car starting is being directly affected by the circled connector below what is part of the throttle body. When I have this connected there is a loud buzzing sound coming from the inlet and although the car tries to start it never catches. If I disconnect this cable the buzzing noise stops and the car starts but then dies almost immediately. That's your idle speed/air control valve. If you have a multimeter, check the resistance across the contacts in your photo. It should be between 10.7 to 12.3 Ohms for that particular valve.If that is ok then remove it from the throttle body and give it a few gentle taps with a hammer as it may well just be sticking. |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Nov 1, 2017 15:30:18 GMT
Thanks for the tip, I will check that tonight.
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Post by mikeeyboy on Nov 8, 2017 20:51:54 GMT
I wont bore everyone with the detail as I am still not 100% what is going on but I think my immobiliser may be on the way out. The car starts now anyhow. My photo updates have been poor of late but I have got quite a bit done. I decided to fit a resonator to the exhaust as was on the standard MK2, I used a 14 inch round one from ebay. The car is still loud but hopefully not as loud when being revved.   The original CAT is still fitted. I do not have a pipe bender that would bend this size so ended up notching the tube in a few places to kick it up into an angle to fit on the MEV end can. Fuel tank and rear electrics are finished / bolted down. I plan to add a heat shield behind the reverse and fog lights as they are quite close to the exhaust.  I also didn't like the hand brake cable being on display, so I stole the below idea from Paul. This is 0.5mm mild steel sheet bent and then covered in a fake leather material.  All the wings are bonded on, I used Silkflex 221 after doing some reading and don't regret it - its very good stuff. I stripped the powder coat off the whole wing that would be glued. I then built it up in layers all around the support and spread it out to give a good contact area.  The car now has 2 seats fitted and torqued up. I used a spreader plate on each side of the bolt before I torqued them up as I think it would have crushed the square box section in between if it was a just bolt and the runner. The car also has 4 new tyres.  Next job is to tidy the wiring up under the bonnet and fit the digital dash! |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Nov 8, 2017 20:58:11 GMT
I also bled the brakes but have not had chance to test them. Now that the exhaust is done the plan is to drop the car off the stands and give it a run in the next fortnight or so.
Also when I came to fit the hand brake the driver side cable would not reach if I routed it out of the back the tunnel next to the passenger side.
I ended up drilling a 20mm hole in the centre tunnel and putting a rubber grommet in it, this allowed the cable to cut the corner slightly and was then the perfect size.
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