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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2016 13:27:41 GMT
Started car today, not at all smooth. Now stripping down to check timing. Lots of backfires and wobbly engine. Will probably video it on next startup, good or bad.
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Post by marmot0 on Mar 27, 2016 14:34:01 GMT
Are the coil packs connected to the right cylinders? Easy thing to check
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2016 15:34:11 GMT
Unfortunately it isn't the coil packs, took lots of photos before the engine came out of the donor and they are connected as before. I have also now checked timing which is ok and checked both coil packs are sparking which they are. Have also swapped out ht leads and put new spark plugs in. Hoping my mechanic friend is coming over tonight to help fix. I have managed to get it in gear and pull forward even with wobbly engine so clutch is ok. Has been running for about 5 mins so not thinking a fuel issue unless an injector isn't firing. Wishing the donor had OBD connector but it didn't.
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Post by R2S on Mar 28, 2016 16:10:30 GMT
Bit left field but are all four 'spikes' that the crank sensor detects intact on the rear of the crankshaft pulley?
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Post by marmot0 on Mar 28, 2016 17:01:24 GMT
Is the earth good to the engine?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2016 21:36:28 GMT
Bit more info after some investigation with my mechanic friend. Basically number four cylinder is not firing. It has a spark and appears to have fuel (wet plug) but not going bang. Have tried swapping the coil and HT lead again but no joy. We are going to test the compression but the engine was fine before so not expecting an issue. The engine as a whole is struggling to start so thinking there is an issue generally and number four is just another symptom. I am thinking air is the problem but any suggestions welcome.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2016 21:46:52 GMT
Is the earth good to the engine? Will check tomorrow, it has an earth strap but will have another look.
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 29, 2016 5:09:48 GMT
Did you replace the timing belt on the engine?? Check ground wire points at throttle body and rear of fuel rail area for injectors and coils.. check clicking sound of each injector when running with long screwdriver to injector and ear.. Gap on crank sensor right.. plug wires in right order.. Good connector at each injector and each sealed good. What is your fuel pressure.. Main multi ground connector and all wires in it 0.00 OHMs to frame. Good ground battery to rear of PPF..
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2016 16:23:43 GMT
Still got the mis-fire but working through options. Definitely have a good earth, have one straight to PPF and one to chassis, earth strap to engine as well. Definitely got the earth lead on the end of the injector loom. Have tried swapping coil packs, leads and plugs. I have also removed and cleaned the intake manifold but everything looked fine in there. Timing belt was changed but I have checked the position again and it is spot on. Today fitted another injector and replaced the injector loom as found a load of silicone at one end. Bought used and tested parts so not expensive. Now I have a fuel leak after injectors were removed from fuel rail so waiting for new seals. Hoping to try again at the weekend if bits arrive.
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 31, 2016 21:00:41 GMT
Have you checked each tit on crank position sensor plate. and gap to pickup 0.020> 0.059in. .. Plate on backwards?? Spray clean wire in MAF with right cleaner not carb cleaner.. Check cam position sensor connector and surface for being clean. What engine year and size are you running.. There is a difference in the plug wire location in coils between 1.6 and 1.8 engines..
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2016 15:35:48 GMT
Hi gwnwar, how would I know if the sensor plate was on backwards, any markings?. I looked into the symptoms for a missing tooth on the plate and guess what, hard to start and a mis-fire. The plate looks to be in good condition, has four teeth I think but I am guessing if it was reversed I might get the same symptoms.
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Post by R2S on Apr 1, 2016 18:54:11 GMT
Bit left field but are all four 'spikes' that the crank sensor detects intact on the rear of the crankshaft pulley? The only way to tell if its on back to front (which puts timing out) is to check which way 'indent' on plate centre is facing.
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Post by R2S on Apr 1, 2016 18:58:19 GMT
Dont know how to link but have a look at my post in June 15 indent on back plate should be to front.
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 1, 2016 20:02:37 GMT
Bottom of dish to crank.. Have you checked the distance of ALL tits to sensor. 0.020> 0.059in If tits are aligned with sensor center should work.. What is the order of the plug wires in the coils from drivers side.. What year engine and size (1.6/1.8) are you running..
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2016 6:47:30 GMT
Might be Monday before I can get into this but will photo the timing plate when I do. The symptoms sound right and this appears to be an easy mistake to make. Off to the Gadget show at NEC today.
On a different note, are there going to be many Replicars at Stoneleigh this year? I am heavily into the Westfield club but want to make sure I maximise my MEV experiance. I am their Sunday and Monday if anyone fancies a meet up.
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