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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2016 21:30:39 GMT
Not sure that would get me through the mirror test at IVA but would be funny to try.
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Post by john on Jan 24, 2016 20:11:28 GMT
Great to see body fitted, assume its mock up trial fit at the minute it is a good motivation boost.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2016 21:06:29 GMT
A few more bits done. First was fixing the fuel filter, I am using the standard MX5 filter so just went for a spot with lots of space. Since this pic I have done some more of the fuel line run and this location will work fine Spent an evening finishing the refurb of the rear calipers. They looked really smart until I spent a few hours fighting with them to get all the new bits in, now they look a little scruffy but I am happy with the internals, all new seals and a new piston. Next was mounting the tank. It appears the mk2 tank sits on the subframe and needs raising a little, had a little discussion with John in Manchester about bobbin heights and decided to raise front and rear, 15mm and 30mm to get the desired height increase. Hopefully this won't cause any issues later. I will also need to run an earth for the tank as I have now isolated it. And the last bit done this weekend, the steering column. On initial fitting the column was kinked to the right and way too low, it basically put the wheel in your lap. The wheel position is made worse because I am using the original MX5 seats for IVA which don't go fully back. After messing around with washers and some dodgy metal bending I have hit a usable position, I think when I put in thinner seats it will get better again. I noticed that most builds have mounted the plate supplied below the box section but I could only get the height I needed by mounting on top. If anyone knows of any issues this will cause let me know.
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Post by john on Feb 7, 2016 21:27:46 GMT
Good work mate all looking really neat and tidy.
Good inspiration to put my beer down and move away from in front of the fire.
Few little things I need to learn and look into next then will have another go at my steering wheel.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 8, 2016 5:22:46 GMT
need some lock washers or lock nuts on tank mounts.. A little liquid dish wash soap and water will clean grease and grim off the calipers.. Can't see have you staked the rear axle nuts in place. nice build so far.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2016 7:24:54 GMT
Hi gwnwar, I have bought some nyloc nuts to go on the tank mounts. On my last IVA the tester asked how I had secured the nuts and the answer is all with nyloc or using a loctite solution. Another good habit is to mark every nut after tightening with some torque paint, it is a good reminder for you that a nut has or hasn't been tightened and shows the IVA tester you have checked your bolts.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2016 7:27:46 GMT
Quick question for the collective. The fuel tank has three pipes, my understanding is the pipe on its own is a breather, the two pipes on the same plate have the fuel out in the centre and the return off to the side. Is this correct? Quick piccy of my understanding:
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 8, 2016 15:12:12 GMT
Correct.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2016 8:07:39 GMT
Thanks Snowbird1, surprisingly hard to get this info from the net.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2016 17:26:06 GMT
Not done a great deal over the weekend. I have had a skip on my drive for 2 weeks which goes tomorrow so wanted to make sure I used every last inch of space, also finished installing a CCTV system at home. I have been at it for weeks and decided this weekend it would get finished. On the car I have finished running fuel lines up to the engine bay and fixed in the fuel tank with an earth strap. The fit with the rubber bobbins looks good and should be firm enough that it will keep clear of the subframe when carrying a full tank. I have also plumbed in the clutch but can't get it to bleed, it makes no attempt to pump fluid at all. Waiting for my mechanic friend to pop round and advise, any help appreciated.
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Post by stevednorris on Feb 16, 2016 9:42:01 GMT
I had the same problem with my clutch. I ended up using a method I've used for motorbike front brake bleeding. Try holding the clutch pedal all the way down for 24 hours, this allows any air to bleed out the top of the clutch line.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2016 10:45:54 GMT
Thanks Steve, I will give that a go. My mechanic friend suggested doing a reverse bleed. You get a big syringe and connect to the slave bleed nipple and force the fluid in from the bottom. As things have turned out I have decided to re-plumb the clutch so I will try your method until new parts arrive, if I don't have any fluid then I will try the reverse bleed method.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 16:21:06 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 19, 2016 21:06:32 GMT
Are you going to run PS on the car?? See you still have bracket on block..
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 22:29:13 GMT
Well spotted. I was originally but have decided not to. I have de-powered the rack but not got round to removing the bracket yet. By Monday the bracket will of gone. I decided all the pipework was messy and it isn't really required on a car as light as this one.
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