|
|
Post by jon on Mar 23, 2016 14:54:53 GMT
For the rear wheel bearings, I used the old bearing to help press the new one in.
First, I ran the old bearing around on my grinder to make its OD a bit smaller. Then i set the old bearing on top of the new one and hammered. This ensures you are putting force on the OD only and let's you drive the new bearing all the way in (past the edge on the knuckle).
It was pretty tough, I wish I had a press. I don't like hammering stuff that hard.
|
|
|
|
Post by jon on Mar 23, 2016 15:03:22 GMT
What diff bushings are you trying to push in? It was hard getting the old ones out, but I was able to use my hands and a big pair of pliers to get the new poly ones in.
|
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 23, 2016 17:38:40 GMT
For the rear wheel bearings, I used the old bearing to help press the new one in. First, I ran the old bearing around on my grinder to make its OD a bit smaller. Then i set the old bearing on top of the new one and hammered. This ensures you are putting force on the OD only and let's you drive the new bearing all the way in (past the edge on the knuckle). It was pretty tough, I wish I had a press. I don't like hammering stuff that hard. This is a great idea. Unfortunately, I had the shop push out my old bearings as I couldn't get the retaining clips to budge and thus I don't have the old parts. The retaining clips were heavily rusted in place and days of banging on them, soaking them, etc. didn't do anything to them. In hindsight, I should have used electrolysis to remove the rust which would have made it easy for me to remove the retaining clip and then the bearing. I'm doing this on a bunch of small parts (bolts, NAS, washers, etc.) that I'm going to reuse and while the process is slow the results are fantastic. |
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 23, 2016 17:42:01 GMT
What diff bushings are you trying to push in? It was hard getting the old ones out, but I was able to use my hands and a big pair of pliers to get the new poly ones in. I bought these differential mounts. I.L. Motorsports Competition Differential Mount The bushings each are surrounded by a metal ring. |
|
|
|
Post by boileralum on Mar 23, 2016 22:31:41 GMT
The front wheel bearings should be cake unless your inner race is seized on the spindle, but even then you can just cut it off.
|
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 24, 2016 0:56:14 GMT
The front wheel bearings should be cake unless your inner race is seized on the spindle, but even then you can just cut it off. You're right. Taking the old ones off was hard as the bearings were stuck to the spindle. Putting the new hubs on is trivial. |
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 26, 2016 21:55:19 GMT
Made some good and bad progress over the last day. Yesterday I replaced the main crankshaft output seal, cleaned up the transmission, clutch, and flywheel and joined them back together. Unfortunately, I misread the torque settings for the transmission bolts and didn't stop even when I started thinking it wasn't right. The result is I snapped one of them. I drilled that out and purchased a new bolt from McMaster Carr. The transmission and engine are back together now with the remaining bolts all torqued to the right setting. Today I started working on putting the front end back together. I quick found out that the passenger side engine mount holes on the block have all been damaged/repaired. One of the holes is completely broken and the other two have replacement bolts of the wrong size. Worse, only one will go back in. I bought an M10 helicoil tool from McMaster. I'm hoping I can salvage the two holes that aren't broken.  Since I couldn't finish with the engine mounts, I started working on the rest of the front end. Everything is back together but I've discovered that I cannot tighten or loosen the nylon nut on the passenger side lower ball joint (which is brand new, out of the box today). Turning just spins the bolt.   |
|
|
|
Post by mawdo81 on Mar 26, 2016 22:18:22 GMT
Re the ball joint nut, wrap a Ratchet strap round the wishbones and tighten it as far as it will go, then give the nut a go. It works on the sonic and rocket...
|
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 26, 2016 22:34:28 GMT
Re the ball joint nut, wrap a Ratchet strap round the wishbones and tighten it as far as it will go, then give the nut a go. It works on the sonic and rocket... Thanks for the tip. I will try that. |
|
|
|
Post by zeitgeist on Mar 27, 2016 0:41:39 GMT
I had a similar problem with my ball joint on one side but with removal. Check that the taper is clean and dry and squeeze them together as Mawdo81 suggested. A clamp may work also.
|
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Mar 27, 2016 5:16:11 GMT
Put a jack under the jack control arm jack up that may stop shaft from turning..
Looks like a water leak from above the oil filter and down block.. might be freeze plugs good time to pop them out and replace..
can't really tell but is that a small crack in block around 10 o'clock side of oil filter to block..
Back to the shade tree.. grind off what is left of nut boss on block.. screw 2 NAS size of mount bolts onto nut.. weld both NAS together. then install mount with other 2 bolts and new bolt and welded NAS in mount hole tack weld NAS to block.. remove mount and finish welding NAS to block. Take up ant space between NAS and mount with washers.. I don't think 3 nut will work might be to long.
What ever NAS you use make sure they are screwed tight together on a bolt so threads line up..
|
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 27, 2016 14:28:55 GMT
Put a jack under the jack control arm jack up that may stop shaft from turning.. Looks like a water leak from above the oil filter and down block.. might be freeze plugs good time to pop them out and replace.. can't really tell but is that a small crack in block around 10 o'clock side of oil filter to block.. Back to the shade tree.. grind off what is left of nut boss on block.. screw 2 NAS size of mount bolts onto nut.. weld both NAS together. then install mount with other 2 bolts and new bolt and welded NAS in mount hole tack weld NAS to block.. remove mount and finish welding NAS to block. Take up ant space between NAS and mount with washers.. I don't think 3 nut will work might be to long. What ever NAS you use make sure they are screwed tight together on a bolt so threads line up.. Hi George, I'm going to ask a dumb question: what's a NAS? I'll take a better picture of the block...I really hope it's not cracked. I don't have the room in my budget for an overhaul... |
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 27, 2016 14:53:09 GMT
Very cold in my neck of the woods today. Nowhere close to the 60 degrees the forecast calls for. Anyway, I got out to the garage and checked the block carefully with a 500w light providing illumination from various angles. There's no crack that I can find, which is a relief for me.
|
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Mar 27, 2016 17:15:02 GMT
buildercg.. Should be..Take up ant space between block and mount..don't know how NAS got there. great on no crack how are the freeze plugs..
|
|
|
|
Post by buildercg on Mar 27, 2016 20:28:51 GMT
My son helped me assemble my VMaxx Sport suspension. I think I've seen a post stating the plastic bumper will bind. Should I cut them out?  Freeze ports look pretty good to me. A few have some rust on the bottom 1/3 which appears to me to be due to collecting water externally.   |
|
