CarlyD's Rocket Type R

[ridgeback]

Thats the one based in Devon. Theres a phone no. Give them a ring . Its like a plastic cover strapped dowm with a pair of cable ties and is quite neat.
Also can be slid back easily if you needto adjust tracking.At around £4 per pair worth taking a punt.

[griffalo]

Sept 21, 2016 18:07:53 GMT carlyd said:

Does anyone know where I can buy the rubber boot which goes over the part of the steering rack which protrudes from the ally panels that we have to make? Also I need rubber boots/gator which cover the adjusting nut on each end of the steering rack (the bit the the ball joint threads on to).
Thanks

If you look in my thread below, 6 or 7 pic down, I used some rubber electrical grommets. You have to take the ball joint part off to fit them over and heat shrink them on. I still have a couple if you want them, I can get them in the post tomorrow if you pm me your address. 

mevowners.proboards.com/thread/7978/iva-ready

Matt

[carlyd]

Sept 22, 2016 17:26:54 GMT griffalo said:

Sept 21, 2016 18:07:53 GMT carlyd said:

Does anyone know where I can buy the rubber boot which goes over the part of the steering rack which protrudes from the ally panels that we have to make? Also I need rubber boots/gator which cover the adjusting nut on each end of the steering rack (the bit the the ball joint threads on to).
Thanks

If you look in my thread below, 6 or 7 pic down, I used some rubber electrical grommets. You have to take the ball joint part off to fit them over and heat shrink them on. I still have a couple if you want them, I can get them in the post tomorrow if you pm me your address. 

mevowners.proboards.com/thread/7978/iva-ready

Matt

That's very kind Matt thank you, I've dropped you a PM with my address. Many Thanks 

[carlyd]

As a matter of interest I had read somewhere that the Rocket weights in at about 550kg. Mine was 620kg.
Whether that's due to the different engine? or race chassis I don't know.

[Froggy]

I'm very surprised at the things you have to do, Notts have had loads of rockets go through IVA, and thats where i took mine, it was martin who did my IVA and i had no comments about the pedal box and it needing extra support. The pedal box has to be lowered on all rockets i think as like you said it doesn't clear the chassis.
Fuel cap does need to be tethered, (its in the manual), i attached with a terminal on each end of some earth wire and screwed into each piece of the cap. Done.
You shouldn't need to cover the engine bay, the sphere can only go into the car in a straight line by 250mm, so if your exhaust is on the rear of the car this should cover the 250mm anyway. I didn't have a cover on the rear and it was fine, just make sure the engine mount nut/bolts are covered with a cap (different mounts on jap i think tho).

By the way, did you fit a rear view mirror? -lots of confusion about this i think, i didnt fit one and passed, maybe add your findings to the iva section.

Good luck with it all.

[airforceone]

I've seen weights posted from 500kg to 650kg so I think it's dependent on the materials used, wheels/tyre
choice, engine and gearbox and all the other additional bits like side pods, radiators and seat selection.

I wouldn't worry it's still half the weight of a normal car.

[mawdo81]

Remember you have bigger (and therefore heavier) wheels than the design weight of 15", also don't you have a steel floor?

[carlyd]

Sept 23, 2016 11:49:04 GMT mawdo81 said:

Remember you have bigger (and therefore heavier) wheels than the design weight of 15", also don't you have a steel floor?

Yes I have steel protection under the seats, I also have an extra steel tube running down the each side of the chassis as I chose the race spec chassis.
I'm not bothered about the weight I just thought I'd mention it, I also have that extra 'Honda power' so the extra weight is ok  

[carlyd]

Sept 23, 2016 11:38:12 GMT Froggy said:

By the way, did you fit a rear view mirror? -lots of confusion about this i think, i didnt fit one and passed, maybe add your findings to the iva section.

Good luck with it all.

No mention of rear view mirror.

There is a big gaping hole at the back of my car that you fit a football into so I will just use wire mesh as Martin suggested. I have plenty in the garage. It will look more today too.
I have fixed lots of the points now, I'm just thinking how to deal with the seat belts.
Should all be done by the end of the weekend 

[carlyd]

I've done most of the jobs now, this is the brake box 'brace' just made it from 2mm steel.



Here is the label on the bulkhead 



This is the hole in the back of the car, before and after pics to stop the sphere going in.





Here are the headlight strengthening brackets to stop vibration.



I am just relocating the side repeaters as they were in the wrong place. I'll post pics when that is done.
Then onto the biggest job, the seat belts.

[kiwicanfly]

I am pretty sure that the flex in your pedal box is nothing to do with the mounting rails twisting but because the spacers used are too small in diameter.

I appreciate the inspector suggested a brace bar like you have fitted but it makes no sense mechanically plus 2mm thick would not add significant bracing anyway.

I suggest you place a decent diameter spacer between the box and rails or a large nut, say M16. It does not have to thread onto the bolt, just centralize it by eye.

Although the examiner suggested the brace he will actually be checking for flex, which if still there, won't let him pass it. You can of course leave the brace in place to keep him happy.

Out of interest why have you used two nuts at the top of each bolt?

[turbosteve]

Regarding the braces.. I always thought the best design would be to extend the bias box mountings to the cross tube where the steering mounts.

For some reason i cannot work out, manufacturer did this fitment in 4 pieces of metal, instead of two. This would also help with any steering flex.

[kiwicanfly]

I am curious about the fitting of the lable for the brake bias.

The label states that you must not adjust the bias but what if you find the bias needs adjusting later on to fine tune it?

Is the bias tested in any way to meet a standard?

How will they know it has been adjusted from the IVA test settings?

I have seen builders setting bias before the car is finished which seems crazy.

I know my fronts lock up before my rears, I found out recently when hard braking in an event, Ive since reduced front bias fractionally and will see what happens next time I test this. I want the fronts to lock just before and the only way I can see to acheive optimum is to keep testing and tweaking.

[carlyd]

Sept 26, 2016 8:39:56 GMT kiwicanfly said:

I am curious about the fitting of the lable for the brake bias.

The label states that you must not adjust the bias but what if you find the bias needs adjusting later on to fine tune it?

Is the bias tested in any way to meet a standard?

How will they know it has been adjusted from the IVA test settings?

I have seen builders setting bias before the car is finished which seems crazy.

I know my fronts lock up before my rears, I found out recently when hard braking in an event, Ive since reduced front bias fractionally and will see what happens next time I test this. I want the fronts to lock just before and the only way I can see to acheive optimum is to keep testing and tweaking.

I think this is one of those silly rules that I just have to go by.
My rears lock slightly before the fronts, but I have 450kg over the rear wheels and only 210kg over the front (excluding driver) so the examiner said this is a pass.
It was just luck really as I din't adjust the bias bar at all, I just set it as it was out of the box.

[carlyd]

Sept 25, 2016 19:03:58 GMT kiwicanfly said:

A lot about bracing......

Out of interest why have you used two nuts at the top of each bolt?

I am just doing what the examiner told me. He can't re-fail it then.

The bolts were long so I just added an extra nut to make me feel better, no other reason.