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Post by BobN on Sept 20, 2016 20:12:41 GMT
Good luck.
Great to have another Rocket on the road.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 20, 2016 21:48:26 GMT
A panicked hour later I noticed a bolt which holds the centre console in place was just touching the terminals on the back of the fan switch causing a short. Electrical systems always seem to induce panic but in reality the solution is often simple. Mind you I suppose the fear is rational, leaky pipes usually only leave a puddle but 'leaky' electrics sometimes leave a fire
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Post by carlyd on Sept 21, 2016 15:01:50 GMT
Well it's a FAIL!! 24 Points in all (I was going for a record) They are all minor and cosmetic things really which are all easy fixes, my main worry was emissions which it breezed through. I have to say though that Martin who tested it was a great guy and very helpful, offering advise and tips on how to get the pass. Some of the ones I've not seen on here are; I need to add a brace bar on the chassis to strengthen it where the pedal box is. Apparently the chassis mounts twist slightly when the brake pedal is pressed hard. Shouldn't that have already been on the chassis when I bought it? I have to make, print and laminate a small sign warning people not to adjust the brake bias and stick it on the bulk head near the brake bias bar? I think my seat belts are no good as the hip straps can't be adjusted when sat in the seats as the lap adjuster thing on the belts is too close to the mounting point, so you can't reach it, it's trapped under the seats. Then there are some trim issues, easy fixes. My side lights are 405mm from the outside of the wheel, they have to be 400mm or less. My side indicator repeaters cannot be seen from the rear of the vehicle (eve though you can see the rear indicators). I need to add mesh to the rear of the car so the sphere cannot enter the engine bay. Need to reinforce the headlight brackets, so 3mm steel isn't strong enough, they vibrate when driving. The fuel filler cap needs to be tethered. Why do RTR (as they were) supply a Non IVA approved part??? I also have an earth issue, when I put the hazards on the brake lights flash. Looked awsome but isn't really legal apparently . Anyway I'm taking it as a positive as they are all easy fixes.. I want the car to be right and above all safe, it's just another £95 retest + trailer hire + fuel + setting of at 6:45 am again for the pass. All in all a very interesting day.
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Post by BobN on Sept 21, 2016 16:14:51 GMT
Not a bad fail. I am curious about the brace bar and chasis mounts bending. Not sure where you mean. Can you post a pic and I can compare and see if mine is different? If it is I will post a pic of mine.
Stuart did advise all rocket owners to fit a brace bar. Not done mine yet though as god is on my side.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 21, 2016 17:59:55 GMT
Not a bad fail. I am curious about the brace bar and chasis mounts bending. Not sure where you mean. Can you post a pic and I can compare and see if mine is different? If it is I will post a pic of mine. Stuart did advise all rocket owners to fit a brace bar. Not done mine yet though as god is on my side. As I said I've not seen the brake box brace on any other rockets, (see pic below) I will post a proper pic when I've made it. Also I misread the fail sheet. It's 11 things that it failed on, and I've already fixed 2
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Post by carlyd on Sept 21, 2016 18:07:53 GMT
Does anyone know where I can buy the rubber boot which goes over the part of the steering rack which protrudes from the ally panels that we have to make? Also I need rubber boots/gator which cover the adjusting nut on each end of the steering rack (the bit the the ball joint threads on to). Thanks
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Post by airforceone on Sept 21, 2016 18:24:50 GMT
I don't think that bar or support is on any rocket. The wilwood pedal unit actually acts like a brace as it connects both sides of that bracket.
Sorry but I have no idea what the iva man is on about maybe Mr Mills can comment but I garuntee that no rocket has ever been picked up for this before. Adding a bar across that gap will have the same effect as the pedal assembly so a bit pointless.
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Post by p5curly on Sept 21, 2016 18:32:50 GMT
Steering rack fail just wrap a bike inner tube round it with some zip ties
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 21, 2016 19:29:08 GMT
From the picture it looks to me as though your pedal box is "hanging" by threaded rod (guessing there is a lock nut under the mounts) rather than using spacers and pulling back hard on the mounts.
Could be wrong as it is tricky to see.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 22, 2016 9:23:45 GMT
Yes my pedal box is spaced off the mounts by about 10mm as my master cylinders wouldn't fit under the chassis rail. Whether this is an RTR "redesign" I don't know but I have seen several people use spacers on their builds. It's not threaded bar they are M8 bolts, bolted through from below with a couple of nuts locked together.
I agree with Airforceone but I am doing as the IVA man tells me. It'll only take 10 mins to make a bar for it.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 22, 2016 9:25:05 GMT
Steering rack fail just wrap a bike inner tube round it with some zip ties Thanks for the tip but I've spent a fortune in both money and time on making it a high quality build. I'd rather buy something that made for the job.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 22, 2016 9:40:22 GMT
It would be good to see a better photograph of the pedal box and mounts but I am pretty sure placing a bar where you have indicated will do nothing to combat flex from pedal force, basically any force imparted by pressing the pedal is acting on a completly different plane to that indicated. I fully accept that you were there and I wasn't so I may be misunderstanding the issue but I just can't see how that bar will do anything useful thus you might fail again
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Post by ridgeback on Sept 22, 2016 10:05:21 GMT
Re youre track rod end a place called Tifosi sportscars(google it) do what they call shrouds to cover these.Alternativly you could tape up with self amalgamating tape.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 22, 2016 14:55:13 GMT
It would be good to see a better photograph of the pedal box and mounts but I am pretty sure placing a bar where you have indicated will do nothing to combat flex from pedal force, basically any force imparted by pressing the pedal is acting on a completly different plane to that indicated. I fully accept that you were there and I wasn't so I may be misunderstanding the issue but I just can't see how that bar will do anything useful thus you might fail again I completely agree it won't do anything. I couldn't see the 'flexing' as I was pressing the brake pedal. I will just fit the bracket, then I have done as instructed. I have fixed the issue with the side lights (move them in slightly) and made another steel bracket to stabilize vibration on the headlamps. I will photograph these when fitted. I need to figure out a cunning way to make my seat belt lap belts longer so it's easy to adjust them. I might make some steel brackets so that the anchor points are not under the seats but are a big higher up? I had a discussion with the tester's about high tensile bolts for seat belts. The IVA manual states that must be 8.8 and marked as such or higher. The testers said that if they are allen bolts they are generally accepted as above 8.8 and are therefore suitable even if not marked. They said the seat belt bolts in a focus are not marked. This was Nottingham test centre so please don't take this as gospel, I just thought it was interesting.
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Post by carlyd on Sept 22, 2016 14:58:28 GMT
Re youre track rod end a place called Tifosi sportscars(google it) do what they call shrouds to cover these.Alternativly you could tape up with self amalgamating tape. ridgeback, is this the web site? www.tifosi.homecall.co.uk/Thread%20screw.htmlIf so do you know who owns it? there is no image of the cover and the site looks very old??? Thanks Carl
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