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Post by brettlawrence on Jul 5, 2015 20:39:27 GMT
Hi, Alan, I'm in Portsmouth. Thought I should post some progress pics. Shot blasted wishbones Ghetto spray booth Shiny wishbones with new bushes fitted New 6kg flywheel Fabricating ABS pump mount ABS mount will go here. Any reason why this is a bad idea? It's taking a long time but I've learnt a lot already.
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Post by brettlawrence on Jul 26, 2015 11:10:13 GMT
Few more photos; ABS pump mounted and brake pipe routing test Pas front hose union (clip not fitted yet) Drivers front brake hose union (clip not fitted yet) I had to move one of the fuel tank mounts, there was no way I get the tank to fit even with a rolled edge. Also in frame I added a mount for the handbrake cable, no clue where it's meant to go. Also slightly moved rear brake distribution block, despite a rear mk2 subframe being allegedly the same, I found the rear hoses where being forced to bend too much so I moved the block and the pas side union in towards to center by 10 cm ish. New position, just a cm ish towards the corner Nearly ready to pressurise both brake and clutch lines, just a couple parts needed from mazda. I lost one of the abs pump banjo unions, and I need to replace some of the teflon components in the gear shifter mechanism. Started looking at the loom to figure out abs sensor routing (I have two sensors on each rear wheel for telemetry) but that looks like a nightmare. I think it's going to a be a gradual reloom once I confirm that the engine still runs.
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 3, 2015 19:46:39 GMT
Clutch hydraulic hose moved a bit: I think I'm doing too many things at the same time: Definitely too many things at the same time. Getting air routed was a challenge in the mx5, there looks to be more space here.
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Post by R2S on Aug 3, 2015 22:24:50 GMT
Brett
some great pictures really helpful for those who will follow.
Interesting that you have kept abs as I have stripped it from mine and de-powered the rack!
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 4, 2015 16:53:10 GMT
R2S, cheers.
I was tempted to delete ABS and PS, but when it was an MX5 I did a lot of autosolos with it, and both are really useful for those. I found that the PS fluid boiled a lot, so I'm going to take the opportunity to fit a proper cooler as I think the original will be a poor compromise when fitted.
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 5, 2015 19:42:47 GMT
Fuel tank hose and filter placement, not sure what I am going to do about the vapour release valve - I deleted the charcoal canister a long time ago. I'm thinking about just a filter on the atmosphere side of the release valve. Blanked off the block route to the heater matrix. Don't do this!Start of rear abs wiring route.
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 6, 2015 2:01:47 GMT
First thing you can do is unblock the rear of the head unless you want to roast the #4 cly and head.. you need that outlet to be joined to the tube under exhaust manifold for coolant flow..
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 6, 2015 13:59:20 GMT
Ah, I was under the impression there was no flow there unless the heater matrix was open - there is another inlet to the water pump. Is there always water flowing through the matrix return if the heater is off?
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 6, 2015 17:31:29 GMT
Have done a bit more research, you're right gwnwar and blocking the block exit is yet more evidence that 'assumption is the mother of all mistakes'. Thank you for the alert, you might have saved me an engine.
I'll edit my previous post but without removing it.
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 6, 2015 17:43:50 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 6, 2015 21:58:14 GMT
Water is always flowing through the heater matrix.. The heat flow to inside of car is controlled by a door (mixing door) for hot/cold flow..
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Post by brettlawrence on Aug 29, 2015 16:39:16 GMT
I decided to go with the coolant reroute. The 1.6 thermostat cover exits 90° further clockwise than the 1.8 which means it will fit at the rear of the engine and route coolant to the intake side. It needs to be spaced a couple of centimeters from the back of the engine to clear other bolts. I turned an ally adapter to take the thermostat, cover and the temperature sensor from the original rear cover. It fits ok. The front will be blocked except for the bypass.
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 29, 2015 20:37:04 GMT
Looks like your CAS "O" ring is leaking or have you changed it.. Nice work on the bypass unit..
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Post by brettlawrence on Sept 14, 2015 20:16:56 GMT
Just a bit more coolant reroute work:
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Post by brettlawrence on Sept 21, 2015 20:19:39 GMT
Fitted clutch pedal and bled the hydraulics this evening, it feels great to be putting life blood back in!
There is a disturbing amount of flex in the firewall when pressing the clutch, I'm going to do the same as a couple of others and add an extra support from the top of the pedal assemblies to the upper bracing.
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