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Post by einy on Aug 12, 2015 14:57:23 GMT
Thank you for the picture ... that clears this up for me. Will make the same cut on bottom only, leaving the side panels "as is" Right now, with the bodywork slid under my radiator, I am hitting on the cam belt covering part of the valve cover, the 'spigot' on my NA's throttle body idle speed set screw boss, and the front most sections of the frame upper rails. Not good ... but this change should alleviate all of those interference points. Not sure what I will need to do with the fans yet. I may simply remove the AC side fan to open up airflow a bit more and see if that works adequately. Donor car - in the short time I drove it - never had any overheating issue since about the only new part on it was the radiator !!
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Aug 16, 2015 0:30:50 GMT
This week I picked up a Silhouette Cameo Vinyl Cutter with the roller feeder. I have wanted one for a couple of years and I had just the thing for my first project...    This was my first attempt to use the cutter and it went perfectly. I was really surprised that it worked out so nicely on the first try. I think these numbers look way better than the janky tape ones I was using. Now if we could just figure out a way to get out of the "A Mod" class. The dude with the Cobalt SS is killing me with the PAX time. |
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Post by steadfast on Aug 16, 2015 1:52:03 GMT
Cutting the U shaped channel on the bottom for radiator clearance, did you notice any difference in the structural rigidity of the nose cone section?
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Aug 16, 2015 1:59:29 GMT
Cutting the U shaped channel on the bottom for radiator clearance, did you notice any difference in the structural rigidity of the nose cone section? No It's the most rigid section. It still feels just as sturdy as it was before I got all cut happy. |
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Post by lhintze on Aug 16, 2015 21:46:44 GMT
^same here, I didn't notice any loss of rigidity, I cut about 4" out of mine.
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Post by greg on Aug 16, 2015 22:59:29 GMT
Same as the two above me.
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Post by dietcoke on Aug 17, 2015 1:00:59 GMT
What size numbers did you go with, 8/4"?
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Aug 17, 2015 14:09:31 GMT
What size numbers did you go with, 8/4"? The numbers are 7" and the letters are 3.5" |
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Post by einy on Aug 17, 2015 19:04:57 GMT
Curious what you used for headlight mounts ... thought I saw a post from you with a link to those on another build log, but now cannot find that.
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Post by boileralum on Aug 20, 2015 1:34:41 GMT
You might want to check the Solo rulebook, Section 3-7-E: Numbers must be a minimum of 8” high with a 1.25” stroke. Class letters must be a minimum of 4” high with a 0.75” stroke. In all cases, the height of the class letters must be between 25% and 75% of the height of the numbers. Stroke width must be at least 10% of the height (see Appendix F.) You are pretty close and at least it's not body colored masking tape, though  This week I picked up a Silhouette Cameo Vinyl Cutter with the roller feeder. I have wanted one for a couple of years and I had just the thing for my first project... This was my first attempt to use the cutter and it went perfectly. I was really surprised that it worked out so nicely on the first try. I think these numbers look way better than the janky tape ones I was using. Now if we could just figure out a way to get out of the "A Mod" class. The dude with the Cobalt SS is killing me with the PAX time. |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Aug 20, 2015 16:17:58 GMT
You might want to check the Solo rulebook, Section 3-7-E: Numbers must be a minimum of 8” high with a 1.25” stroke. Class letters must be a minimum of 4” high with a 0.75” stroke. In all cases, the height of the class letters must be between 25% and 75% of the height of the numbers. Stroke width must be at least 10% of the height (see Appendix F.) You are pretty close and at least it's not body colored masking tape, though I guess I will make them bigger next time... My local autocross is more about fun than serious competition. I think they will let me get away with the slightly smaller numbers. And they are way more legible than the tape I used the last two times. |
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Post by boileralum on Aug 20, 2015 17:14:13 GMT
Yeah, I am sure you will be fine - I have seen some people do weird things, like a local guy w/ a black 1LE Camaro who ran carbon fiber numbers. Absolutely illegible from more than 5' away.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jun 17, 2016 1:51:53 GMT
Wow. It seems it's been quite a long time since my last post! I ran across a link to a FM Voodoo II turbo kit for sale on the Turbomita site. A couple of PMs later and the kit is on the way. It's brand new never installed and the price was great. I plan to run the voodoo box for awhile and eventually upgrade the injectors and get a MSPNP, but for now this should up the fun factor.
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Post by steadfast on Jun 17, 2016 3:38:24 GMT
Awesome! You will love it. Perfect amount of power, and all the right turbo noises!
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Aug 8, 2016 1:50:52 GMT
So this is happening...  I installed a MSPNP Pro, Innovate MTX-L Wideband, GM Style IAT and removed the MAF and narrowband o2 today. Car fired right up and ran. I drove it about 5 miles to check it out before the rain hit. Seemed to run fine. I don't really know much about tuning but I guess I will figure it out soon. Next thing to install is the Supermiata Damper with 36-2T trigger wheel. I was a bit concerned about the stock damper when I put the car together and with the impending turbo upgrade... One problem is that it seems like the bolts that hold the trigger wheel on seem to be too long. Anybody else have this problem? I plan to call or email Supermiata tomorrow. I have new FlowForce injectors and no electronics FMII (ditched the Voodoo box) still to be installed as well, but time is limited and so I am working in small steps when I can find the time. |
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