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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 16, 2015 14:11:24 GMT
OK ... stupid questions alert. Is the mini charcoal canister supposed to 'catch the fumes' when tank gets hot and needs to vent, so it does not stink up your garage? I'm assuming that is the intended purpose. If so, when will it vent those accumulated fumes, as I'm assuming is has to sooner or later. I think the OEM solution is to use a 'timed venting' process to point the accumulated fumes to the engine, although that particular system was pre-removed from my NA before I got it. I realize my NA fuel system is different vs. what is shown here, but trying to figure out what to do on my side before my frame is ready. A 'gas fumey' garage is what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks in advance! I used to have a Buell 1125cr. It uses the frame as the gas tank and as you can imagine the fuel got pretty warm when the engine was hot. So after riding it it would vent fuel until the engine cooled down. The solution was to park it outside for an hour or so to let the fuel cool down. Then it was fine. The California spec bikes didn't vent fumes because they had a charcoal canister that ran the fumes back to the throttle body. This caused the bikes to be hard to start on a warm day because of the extra fuel being pushe into the intake. So to get rid of the fuel smell most people just installed the canister and inline and did not return the vapor to the engine. That took care of the problem. I think this will trap most of the fumes and if not I can add the sensors and switches back on. |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 16, 2015 14:14:09 GMT
Is there a reason why the gas filter is one filtering one line coming from the pump, instead of having it after the T? Mine is the same way and I can't figure out why its this way. I don't think the right fittings are included to put it after the T. I might have to give Kevin a call... I dont know why the filter is before the T but my guess is that it is to keep the filter from "back flushing". If it were after the T excess fuel could wash any trapped gunk back into the tank. |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 16, 2015 14:18:21 GMT
OK ... stupid questions alert. Is the mini charcoal canister supposed to 'catch the fumes' when tank gets hot and needs to vent, so it does not stink up your garage? I'm assuming that is the intended purpose. If so, when will it vent those accumulated fumes, as I'm assuming is has to sooner or later. I think the OEM solution is to use a 'timed venting' process to point the accumulated fumes to the engine, although that particular system was pre-removed from my NA before I got it. I realize my NA fuel system is different vs. what is shown here, but trying to figure out what to do on my side before my frame is ready. A 'gas fumey' garage is what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks in advance! I have a 2000 miata donor which has a pressure sensor on the tank and in the engine bay. I was planning on keeping this and coding the hydra (or MegaSquirt, haven't decided which yet) to operate the purge system using the stock pressure sensors. All smaller canister like this will fill up fast and require more purging, but (in my head) the system will work like stock. This canister is an "end of the line" canister. There is only one input and the out goes to atmosphere. Dont know if it will work or if I will need to add more off the sensors and switches back in. |
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Post by greg on Jan 16, 2015 14:26:07 GMT
Then you won't need to do anything. It will purge itself once there's enough pressure inside.
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Post by einy on Jan 17, 2015 0:40:42 GMT
Looks like I need to study the NA system to see what is appropriate in my case. My (missing) charcoal canister was in the engine bay I think. That said, my donor never stunk up the garage in the year before it's rebirth started !
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 18, 2015 3:20:12 GMT
Didn't get much done on the car today. I smashed the @&#% out of my thumb with a big hand riveter last night. Top Tip: Install the front bulkhead panels before you install the pedal assembly. Today the seats came in though, so I put the sliders on and set them in the car. They are not attached yet but look pretty good.   If you buy the Corbeau sliders the passenger side bracket is slightly wider than the drivers side. It dosen't seem to matter but its something to be aware of. Also that sticker is exactly where the attachment point for the crotch strap is. I guess that part will have to be cut out.  Corbeau 5 point harnesses in red arrived today as well.  |
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Post by greg on Jan 18, 2015 12:45:57 GMT
The ricer in me wants to know what wing is that?
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Post by einy on Jan 18, 2015 14:08:59 GMT
IC - curious about a couple 'seat related' items. First, do the Corbeau seat tracks looks like they will bolt right up to the Exocet seat mounting points as you received the chassis, or did you have to do any modifications to make them work? Also curious what you saw in the Forza Sport vs. the Forza seat. I see the Sport is FIA approved where the other is not, but was there something beyond this you were looking for? As always, 'thanks in advance' !
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 18, 2015 15:44:15 GMT
The ricer in me wants to know what wing is that? It is a NASCAR COT wing from Hendrick motorsports. It used to sit on the back of the #88 Dale Earnhardt Jr car.  |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 18, 2015 15:55:21 GMT
IC - curious about a couple 'seat related' items. First, do the Corbeau seat tracks looks like they will bolt right up to the Exocet seat mounting points as you received the chassis, or did you have to do any modifications to make them work? Also curious what you saw in the Forza Sport vs. the Forza seat. I see the Sport is FIA approved where the other is not, but was there something beyond this you were looking for? As always, 'thanks in advance' ! The spacing looks like it will work just fine but I had to flatten the tabs to get them to match the flat bars in the exocet frame. I just smashed them flat with the 20 ton press. Part of the bracket covers the mount point for the crotch strap so that will have to be modified. If I were to do it again I would probably order the universal sliders and make a bracket to hold them. I went with the Forza Sport because of the FIA sticker. I figured if I ever get the chance to take it to the track its one less thing to have to worry about at tech inspection and the ~$180 price difference for the pair isn't that much in the grand scheme of things. |
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Post by Exo81 on Jan 19, 2015 23:57:30 GMT
Something you may want to check before drilling the seat mount holes is whether or not your bolt heads will clear the sliders. If they are designed for a Miata and had to be flattened you will probably lose the clearance you need to move the seat back and forth unless you raise the sliders on spacers. I had three holes drilled before I discovered this on mine. Due to seat height I ended up ditching the slider and using square tube like JIDiesel. Well, with a slight twist. As I did not want to drill extra holes I used the Corbeau frame and mounted the tubes where the sliders should have been.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 20, 2015 0:59:57 GMT
Something you may want to check before drilling the seat mount holes is whether or not your bolt heads will clear the sliders. If they are designed for a Miata and had to be flattened you will probably lose the clearance you need to move the seat back and forth unless you raise the sliders on spacers. I had three holes drilled before I discovered this on mine. Due to seat height I ended up ditching the slider and using square tube like JIDiesel. Well, with a slight twist. As I did not want to drill extra holes I used the Corbeau frame and mounted the tubes where the sliders should have been. I did see that the bolt heads would probably interfere. I am going to try careful placement and if that doesn't work, spacers. |
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Post by ashneyder on Jan 20, 2015 1:09:58 GMT
I have the same seats, but in vinyl. When I tried to mount them directly on the floor, I couldn't position the seats straight and still have enough clearance. This is why I ended up elevating the seats with 1 inch square tubes. I welded them to the floor and welded the huts inside the bars.  |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Jan 21, 2015 0:52:44 GMT
Well I have given up on the Corbeau miata seat mounts. The passenger side just isn't going to work at all and both sides sliders will hit the mounting hardware. I am going to do a 1" tube like ashneyder, but my frame is already powder coated so I will have to bolt the tubes in. If you are going this route save yourself $150.00 and just order the universal sliders and get some flat steel or tubes. I have also been working on the brake lines. I bought a bunch of different lengths of preformed hard line. It cost about $40.00 for sizes ranging from 12" to 60". I need to pick up a 72" piece to finish the job. I mounted the proportioning valve in the steel portion of the tunnel.  I need to get some long bolts and spacers to mount it to the tunnel.  The best part was I found a grommet that fits the body of the proportioning valve and fits into the hole that is requires to get the knob through. If anybody wants one I had to buy a 10 pack of them so I have 9 extras.  |
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Post by einy on Jan 21, 2015 1:15:29 GMT
I.C. - any pics if the Miata seat sliders avail that you can post showing the problems you are running into? Also, do you think you'll be using the flat floor Corbeau slider now instead, or one of their raised models? PM'd you on the grommet "offer".
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