Ian's build thread

[gwnwar]

Sounds like under the rear cover you have a pinched wire.. Can you get to the harness or pull off the light unit to see inside..

[calibuild]

May 4, 2017 18:23:27 GMT ian360 said:

I've been tidying up a few bits and pieces and will update with some pictures later, but I have a quick question I need some advice / confirmation on quickly please. 
I was intending using the standard exhaust (it needs some modifying in the centre) but the rear box seems to be far too big. I've offered it up to check mounting points and as can be seen in photo it sticks out about 30cms from the chassis edge. If I am reading the Iva manual correctly the maximim protrusion allowed is 150mm.

 Obviously needs levelling up etc but there is no room to pull the box into the frame as already almost touching the rear sub. 

Can anyone advise if this is acceptable or if I need a plan B

many thanks

Hi Ian - can't speak specifically to the IVA, but have just done a bunch of research on mufflers and reading through other threads etcetera as I had the same issue with the stock muffler sticking way out and didn't love the look. 

I've gone with a stainless steel Magnaflow, 2.5 inch inlet, dual 2.5 inch outlets (you can go down to 2.25). You can buy pre-bent pipe, and weld the pieces together; however, after reviewing this and mocking it up, decided it was better to let the professionals handle this one as the muffler shop has a mandrel bender.

Good luck with your build, and wiring is pain, but you'll get through it!

[ian360]

It's been some time since my last update and was previously hinting I had reached the end of the process! Pleased to say couple of days away to clear head since that post and back on track again.

The electrics I think have now finally been sorted (tempting fate on that point?). Dodgy earth connection in driver rear light was the previous problem, all now fixed. That meant all lights finally working as they should. Meant taking the rear cover off to access the loom whilst diagnosing but didn't have to disconnect the fuel pipes.

Few pictures on progress

Fuel filler connected

and at tank end with 38mm flexible pipe from CBS

Very fiddly job lots of scraped knuckles and bad language, hence why I was reluctant to take it all off again. 

Rear cover and lights all now fixed and working

The way I have attached the light tubes allows me to finally adjust for IVA once I go through final checks.

After finishing this I've been starting several jobs on the run in to completion and not really finishing any of them. Lots of bits ready to fit and down to a single column on the whiteboard of jobs to finish.

Rear bulkhead templated, cut and fitted,

Dash fitted, just needs a final self tapper to hold down, and steering column surround fixed.

Hazard and fog switches fitted

Side panel templates made and cut, ready to be fixed

 

Driver and passenger bulkhead panels fitted.

Electric tray fitted, exhaust rear bracket on and ready to fix exhaust, radiator and bonnet bracket all prepared for fitting, seats adjusted to make a better fit, seat belts on - all of which I forgot to take pictures of!

Moving in right direction again, not setting any target but hope to have it finished by end of this month........... 

[ian360]

Just checking if I am able to insert pictures. The centre tunnel cover is now in place, lots of other bits done and will update once I know the images are working

[buildercg]

Looks good ian.

[ian360]

I'm getting close to the final few jobs being completed, pictures will follow. Started to look at the IVA forms and one thing jumped out at me which I hadn't paid any attention to previously - engine number!

My V5 of the donor states engine number 'not known'. I'm learning the donor was an import?

I can't see any engine number and probably too late in the build to start trying to locate, room is at a premium! My breakdown pictures clearly show a stamp B660 on the rear of the engine which I think just confirms it would be a 1.6?

Question for IVA purposes - do I need to get an official engine number for the inspector. Is it just a means of establishing age and therefore emissions level, and as I am looking at a 1998 with now new exhaust and CAT I shouldn't have to worry about the emission passing?

If not and anyone knows how to go about obtaining the engine number, and then proving it's the one being used, I'd appreciate guidance

Many thanks 

[timbo]

I think you will need an engine number for IVA and if it doesn't match the donor then you will have difficulty getting an age-related plate. If you have the VIN number try contacting Mazda customer services? That approach worked when I had similar trouble with a BMW engine.

[Stiggy]

Perhaps you should stamp a number on the block and send your V5 in for amendment.

[gwnwar]

Have you looked on the intake side of the block towards the rear. Or same side forward on block were oil pan joins about 4" back from front..

[ian360]

Well after scratching away at what I thought was the tab where the number would be, which clearly had not ever been stamped being as smooth as glass, I started to look elsewhere on Georges suggestion, and found another rear tab slightly obscured with the wiring loom. Light chip away and I thought I could see something, so further rubbing with emery paper and lo and behold eventually revealed a full engine ID number! Lost several layers of skin to knuckles and wrists getting hand in and out of the very small orifice, but it is clear to read now. Just need to update V5 with DVLA.

Would strongly suggest this exercise is dealt with whilst engine is out - it will be much easier! A point I completely overlooked until too late.

Now if I can get the pictures sorted out I can get up to date on the build............   

[ian360]

Finished!! (well 99%)

Daughter seems pleased with the result!

It seemed easier to finish the last few jobs than get the pictures sorted following the photobucket debacle, but here are a few to bring things up to date.

PU fixed the wheel arches, held in place with bungee straps and spare wheels!

Had a good contact to the stays and using only PU seems good enough to hold in place.

I wasn't 100% happy with the rear lights so had more tubes made and painted up

and fixed again

The hollow threaded bolts allowed for final position adjustment and then covered with conduit and insulation tape.

Instrument surround needed some work to hide the electrics so added an ally panel to each side.

 

To fit the side repeaters I fixed some painted mesh to the frame and bolted indicators on

Then decided same mesh would serve for the side mirrors I had.

Rear mirror added held in place with cable ties (is that allowed?)

PU'd the nose grill into place

and then fixed the bonnet using the MEV brackets and secured underneath with bolts

Dropped the seats into place with additional spacers and new battery secured with battery box.

Changed oil and filled with fresh coolant, checked brake fluid, double checked all bolts to torque specs, so time for first road test on my neighbours farm track.

I knew it started, now it goes, steers, stops all the lights work as they should, no leaks, gauges work, fan comes on as required. So everything looking good.

Issues - the mesh for the side mirrors was a disaster, no strength and they vibrated beyond use. So new ally brackets added and actually now they are not only in a better position but solid.

There's a knocking noise coming from the rear which I think is the exhaust rubbing against the prop - needs some investigation.

Steering - the IVA manual mentions a degree of self centring above 10mph being evident. Not sure what this means exactly on the test but I found the wheel quite firm in holding it's position, leading to some veering. Can anyone shed any light on this?

I've asked my mate who looks after my other cars to run an 'MOT' check this weekend so things such as light positions and emissions can be checked, plus making sure everything else looks road worthy! Any comments as to anything else that might look wrong always appreciated!

[miket]

Looking great - good work.

Re. your request for comments - be worth checking front indicators for the angle of visibility 'inwards' (across to other side of car) - just looks a bit like the car's nose might be in the way. Also worth checking wing mirrors are high enough to get the field of view.

And imho mirror cable ties would be taking a risk, but I have no evidence for that.

Had you considered painting the nose grille black? - I think I might have been tempted.

[ian360]

Mike - thanks comments.

The headlight / indicator unit is less than 750mm high so only needs a 20 degree 'inward' angle if I am correct? I have that clearance. 

Wing mirrors have been moved since that picture was taken pre 'road test'. They are now on solid brackets further back and with good adjustment range get the required field of view rearwards.

The internal mirror actually does give some vision to the rear so might just attach it permanently - shouldn't be too much of a problem and removes any doubt.

 

[miket]

Sounds like you're all over it.

Re. the self centring steering: all I can make of that is that if you're driving round a curve at 10mph+ and let go of the wheel then the radius should open out rather than continue as is or tighten?

[ybot19]

Hi Ian, your headlights will fail on visibility had mine exactly like yours for iva and it failed. Also you will need to modify the headlamps or buy new ones as the beam pattern will be LHD