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Post by james13009 on Oct 4, 2014 22:23:08 GMT
Hello nice colour! My busa column is different to yours. I can slot my universal joint in side the standard column with a bit of cutting and welding
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Post by coverdad on Oct 5, 2014 8:43:21 GMT
Thanks James, we thought there must be something wrong with what we have.
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Post by james13009 on Oct 5, 2014 20:15:00 GMT
In fairness it's not massively different.
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Post by coverdad on Oct 5, 2014 20:22:49 GMT
It's not very different and we might be able to shove it in instead of wrapping it round.
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Post by roadtrackrace on Oct 8, 2014 13:14:04 GMT
For some reason, we see an occasional Fiesta column that has this larger end and as a rule, we do not buy them as they are harder to fit.
The key is normally in the ignition when we supply.
More than happy to swap the column for the other style if you wish.
RTR.
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Post by coverdad on Oct 8, 2014 15:10:56 GMT
Thank you kindly, I shall replace, when can I come over and swap
Mark
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Post by roadtrackrace on Oct 8, 2014 17:01:10 GMT
We have one in the workshop that now has your name on it, so feel free to come any time you like during business hours. Just let us know you are on your way.
We will also be here on Saturday morning.
RTR
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Post by coverdad on Oct 9, 2014 9:01:21 GMT
Yesterday evening we took Matty's advice and loosened the nuts on the wishbones and turned the suspension adjustment to face outwards.
The nuts tightened by my sons could have been loosened by an underweight octogenarian, heaven help us!
We then proceeded to attach the nearside front wheel hub assembly. Mistake 1. First tried using rear disc. Mistake 2. After discovering mistake 1 attached the front disc the wrong way round. Mistake 3. We think we haven't made any more mistakes. I will put up a photo for ridicule soon, but am just savouring a few moments of misguided competence for the time being.
Steering column removed for a visit to RTR.
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Post by james13009 on Jan 2, 2015 9:07:38 GMT
How are you getting on?
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Post by mevacovster on Jul 9, 2015 12:01:21 GMT
Hi guys, It's been a long time and feels like longer. Car coming on slowly, we've probably got a on the road estimate of 2018 in our heads so a target to aim for. We have an engine in now, just, it's currently perched on the bolts but bushes are needed in the gaps. I take it you put those little metals bush things in the gaps? We seem to have a lot of them about 1-2cm wide that would fit perfectly. link
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Post by mevacovster on Jul 9, 2015 12:10:09 GMT
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Post by mevacovster on Jul 13, 2015 11:04:37 GMT
Hi Guys,
We have some, a lot, of questions if you don’t mind indulging us? We think we’re now at the bit where we need to worry about engines, gearboxes e.t.c and could do with some guidance before blindly celloptaping bits and bobs together. Thanks for your support.
We don’t have a radiator at present could someone advise which one is preferable?
We have the electric reverse motor, how or where is this attached? Currently the thinking is we have something move in and out of place via a lever/switch type contraption?
Gears, lever e.t.c look tricky, we’re thinking of going paddle shift, in your experience is this easier to put in place (as saves time dealing with mechanical linkage?) and does it provide benefit on the track?
We’re going to try the rest of the build working front to back so radiator and fan, brake and clutch hoses and all wiring requirements. Can you think of any good reason not to do it this way and any recommendation on speedo/instrumentation we should go for?
Any questions please ask.
Many Thanks
Cambridgeshire Build Team
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Post by paulh on Jul 13, 2015 11:36:10 GMT
I used a skoda radiator £20 from ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FELICIA-1-3-1994-2001-FAVORIT-1-3-1988-1995-MANUAL-RADIATOR-NEW-/321232747455?hash=item4acaf6bbbfreverse motor engages on the cog/nut that holds the rear sprocket mounting bracket that is with the motor bolts to the chassis upright by the diff, but can`t be fitted until the engine is in place.There is no need for any levers or anything to engage it, it has a solenoid on it to do that. paddle shift is possibly easier to install and set up, but gear lever length is quite critical and the whole setup is around £1000, so not the cheapest option but I wouldn`t be without it on mine. As long as you are not bolting things on which will be in the way for fitting other parts, you can work which ever way round you like.If you don`t have the suzuki dash, you can use any of the after market ones, I have an acewell with all the necessary warning lights around the outside for iva, about £100 from ebay, I think. Also moulded my own steering column surround and incorporated the dash and home made paddles in to it
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Post by mevacovster on Jul 14, 2015 11:56:47 GMT
Thanks Paul great help. Front to back we go then. We've ordered paddles, pro shifter and software for the flappy paddles, we're not ready to making our own yet So will prob have questions regarding that once it comes. And we're now looking for skoda/polo type radiator too, hopefully this new momentum will mean we get some new bits on it soon, there's been a few weeks now of looking and kicking bits, and a couple of stints at pretending to drive but no real progress. I'll try to keep you posted, thanks again
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Post by james13009 on Jul 15, 2015 14:12:31 GMT
I've used a radtech radiator. 2x 25mm outlet, plus 13mm bleed.
I would work front to back. I just feel lining up the pipe work would be slightly more of a pain. Doing this way round, unless you remove the manifold on the engine. However the manifold weirdly forms part of the jacking point from underneath. So leave it on when putting the engine in.
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