Yesterday evening we took Matty's advice and loosened the nuts on the wishbones and turned the suspension adjustment to face outwards.
The nuts tightened by my sons could have been loosened by an underweight octogenarian, heaven help us!
We then proceeded to attach the nearside front wheel hub assembly. Mistake 1. First tried using rear disc. Mistake 2. After discovering mistake 1 attached the front disc the wrong way round. Mistake 3. We think we haven't made any more mistakes. I will put up a photo for ridicule soon, but am just savouring a few moments of misguided competence for the time being.
It's been a long time and feels like longer. Car coming on slowly, we've probably got a on the road estimate of 2018 in our heads so a target to aim for. We have an engine in now, just, it's currently perched on the bolts but bushes are needed in the gaps. I take it you put those little metals bush things in the gaps? We seem to have a lot of them about 1-2cm wide that would fit perfectly. link
We have some, a lot, of questions if you don’t mind indulging us? We think we’re now at the bit where we need to worry about engines, gearboxes e.t.c and could do with some guidance before blindly celloptaping bits and bobs together. Thanks for your support.
We don’t have a radiator at present could someone advise which one is preferable?
We have the electric reverse motor, how or where is this attached? Currently the thinking is we have something move in and out of place via a lever/switch type contraption?
Gears, lever e.t.c look tricky, we’re thinking of going paddle shift, in your experience is this easier to put in place (as saves time dealing with mechanical linkage?) and does it provide benefit on the track?
We’re going to try the rest of the build working front to back so radiator and fan, brake and clutch hoses and all wiring requirements. Can you think of any good reason not to do it this way and any recommendation on speedo/instrumentation we should go for?
I used a skoda radiator £20 from ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FELICIA-1-3-1994-2001-FAVORIT-1-3-1988-1995-MANUAL-RADIATOR-NEW-/321232747455?hash=item4acaf6bbbf reverse motor engages on the cog/nut that holds the rear sprocket mounting bracket that is with the motor bolts to the chassis upright by the diff, but can`t be fitted until the engine is in place.There is no need for any levers or anything to engage it, it has a solenoid on it to do that. paddle shift is possibly easier to install and set up, but gear lever length is quite critical and the whole setup is around £1000, so not the cheapest option but I wouldn`t be without it on mine. As long as you are not bolting things on which will be in the way for fitting other parts, you can work which ever way round you like.If you don`t have the suzuki dash, you can use any of the after market ones, I have an acewell with all the necessary warning lights around the outside for iva, about £100 from ebay, I think. Also moulded my own steering column surround and incorporated the dash and home made paddles in to it
Thanks Paul great help. Front to back we go then. We've ordered paddles, pro shifter and software for the flappy paddles, we're not ready to making our own yet So will prob have questions regarding that once it comes. And we're now looking for skoda/polo type radiator too, hopefully this new momentum will mean we get some new bits on it soon, there's been a few weeks now of looking and kicking bits, and a couple of stints at pretending to drive but no real progress.
I've used a radtech radiator. 2x 25mm outlet, plus 13mm bleed.
I would work front to back. I just feel lining up the pipe work would be slightly more of a pain. Doing this way round, unless you remove the manifold on the engine. However the manifold weirdly forms part of the jacking point from underneath. So leave it on when putting the engine in.