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Post by greg on Apr 18, 2015 15:50:10 GMT
Good eye! I was planning on adding one. Those wires aren't hooked up yet and I was debating making the hole larger for the wiring to the narrowband.
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Post by greg on Apr 20, 2015 0:15:38 GMT
Hell of a weekend! Suggest flipping the throttle cable mount bracket on the plenum upside down so you get better adjustability for the cable. Otherwise in its full length it'll still tug open the throttle plate slightly. This way gives you some adjustability back.  After fighting with the exhaust for a couple days, I was finally able to make this happen. More on the exhaust issues later. Want to work out the details with FM and Kevin first. |
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Post by derkammi on Apr 20, 2015 6:37:55 GMT
Looking very clean an running smooth, idle setting in nicely.
Proper build in my opinion.
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Post by greg on Apr 21, 2015 12:47:16 GMT
Finished up some wiring details last night. Starting with the flasher button. So it turns out the 99-2000 cars don't have a flasher controller, the hazard switch itself does all that. There's a flasher relay unique to those years too. What's even more peculiar is they switched back to an external flasher controller for 2001 just like the 90-97 cars but kept the same hazard button. What this means is, don't get rid of your hazard switch if you have a 99-00 donor and plan on keeping the stock turn signal setup.  Took me forever to figure this out as I ordered an NB hazard off eBay with a pig tail and it came with the harness but only 4 of the 8 wires... Luckily most of the pins are the same in all the connectors so I was able to recreate the 99/00 connector.  Thanks to Improbable Construct, I got the correct flasher relay for running LED turns.  Back when I started the wiring, I made a post about these jumper boxes. There are two in the harness. Was told you can't remove them. According to the manual, they just connect multiple wires together. No resistors or anything. Last night, I got curious and tore one apart. Turns out, that's really all they do.    So basically to delete them, you just splice together the like colored wires. Almost ready to do the final loom wrapping of the main harness. Need to hook up the headlights, fog lights, tail lights and turns. Probably just grab some scrap sheet metal for this as a temp mounting solution till the body work comes. Also let the engine go thru a complete warm up to finish bleeding the cooling system and test a few things. The battery charges around 14.5-14.6 volts at idle meaning my grounds are working great and the new alternator is good. I'm also getting 12.8volts at the fuel pump which is also great. Forgot to measure the battery draw with the ignition off (just to test how much pull the RFID system does when everything else is off). Tonight the plan is to bleed the brakes and the clutch, figure out the ride height I want and see if the car moves under its own power. |
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Post by greg on Apr 22, 2015 1:35:45 GMT
Took forever to bleed the brakes. Had air stuck in the master cylinder that took an hour to slowly bleed out (basically involved pushing the pedal 1/4 way in then back out every 30 seconds till all the air escaped out the top). For the FM willwood brake kit there's 4 bleeders on each caliper. You only need to bleed the top facing two bleeders. So 8 total but the second one is cake after the air is bled out the other side.
Clutch gave me a huge scare. It wouldn't release all the way. Luckily it turns out that it only needed adjustment at the pedal. Now it works great. Well... With the car up in the air it works great.
Looking forward to that first drive. Just need to fine tune to suspension and give it a basic alignment. Can't wait!
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Post by greg on Apr 23, 2015 3:10:36 GMT
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Post by ashneyder on Apr 23, 2015 9:28:54 GMT
Great job man. Very exciting.
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Post by einy on Apr 23, 2015 10:44:44 GMT
Awesome, man!
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Post by greg on Apr 23, 2015 15:25:47 GMT
Thanks guys! Still more to do but the list is short now. Got this expletive deleted working last night. Took 3 different revisions and $60 in used clock springs but I finally got it working. |
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Post by gl21133 on Apr 23, 2015 15:42:35 GMT
Video is set to private.
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Post by greg on Apr 23, 2015 15:47:14 GMT
Try it now
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Apr 23, 2015 16:36:42 GMT
Looking good! Do you have to wait for body work before you can register it?
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Post by greg on Apr 23, 2015 16:40:37 GMT
I need the fenders at the minimum.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Apr 23, 2015 16:53:58 GMT
I need the fenders at the minimum. That's a bummer. I am guessing mid-May for my bodywork. Taylor told me 4-6 weeks at the beginning of April. Yours probably wont show up until the end of May at the earliest. |
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 23, 2015 17:39:09 GMT
If you want it on the road you could do as Rick in Vegas did and use Metal trailer fenders.. They come in different sizes..
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