The seat runners are from car builder solutions.com. As for being available to you in the US i'm not sure, I don't see why not but as they cost only £30 per seat I would think the postage would double the cost, they weigh 2 to 2.5 kg per seat. I see that you got a passenger footrest, have you tried that supplier or is it a one off.
You can have mine for free if you want, but you'll have to come and collect
Kevin, From Car Builers did you specify what car they were for or did you go by width? I answered an add this morning for a set of free Porsche 996 power seats with runners. We shall see. I can always cut down the centers and reweld. I'll ditch the power opption or maybe not a little luxury cant hurt till the motors fry in the rain. Thanks for the offer of the free runners, but the $10,000.00 round trip ticket is my deterent. I was going to make my own, but the weight of my design doubles the weight of the car. Thanks again, Derrick
Derrick, The suppliers of the parts we use in the UK don't have a list of all the kit cars and what parts fit which one. As with the rear spring supplier on Paul's tR1ke, They have a catalogue with universal parts giving the dimensions of each part, it's your job to measure the size of what you want, like spring length and diameter or for the seats the measurements of the chassis cross members. My seat runners are the number 2 type with both sliders locking. Do you know the width of the Porsche seats as they may be a little wide and cover the lower seat belt mounts, when you say you can cut and make them narrower I assume you didn't mean the actual seat, Lol
If it's only you that's going to drive it you don't have to have seat runners. Mine are bolted direct to the floor. Being just over six foot I found the runners made it feel like I was sitting on rather than in the trike
Paul, Good point, I would hate to feel like I'm driving an 18 wheeler up high. I was even considering regular car seats, but they may place my head above the roll bar hoops. I'll just keep test fitting till I get it right. Are your seats on jack bolts to adjust the front of the seat higher? The box I intend to use for the electronics would be easy access if the seats moved forward instead of unbolting if I need to work on something. Thanks again for the tip, Derrick
I just fibreglassed a piece of 4X2 timber under the front edge of the seat and used m10 coach screws up through the floor and bolted the back of the seat straight to the floor,which has bowed slightly over time, and the seat is now nice and low. I'm not good at sharing my toys,so it suits me just fine to have it set up for me and nobody else! The new mevabusa will be done the same way set up for a 18 stone fat B@&£?rd
I added my seats. I couldn't use the RTR seats, they didn't fit my American back side. I mounted them on hinges so they lift forward up onto the hood(bonnet) for access to my electricals behind the seat. I figured if I had to unbolt them to look at something sooner or later I'd brake something gaining access. I've been at a stand still figuring out my rear shock and linkage then they will be off to the powder coaters.
I live in the North Phoenix area - I assume you're not too terribly far away? I'm currently preparing to build an extremely unique custom trike motorcycle, and the Tr1ke design is closest to my idea of the ideal chassis starting point. The trike I am going to build will fly(!) as well as drive.
At this point, I'm debating whether it would make more sense to buy a Tr1ke kit and modify it heavily, or to just fabricate a new chassis from scratch, starting with identical suspension geometry and using all the "stock" components of the kit.
I'm curious to find out how your build project has progressed, and whether or not you would be willing to let me come visit and check it out in person to get a real-world look at the Tr1ke in order to help decide on the proper course of action for my forthcoming project. Private messages don't seem to work for me on this board, so perhaps you could email me at: aero_adv at hotmail dot com