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Post by erik on Sept 18, 2015 15:57:44 GMT
Looks like Fred didn't download the manual. Scott made extensive ,great footage how the Eco-Exo and Eco-exo-R are build plus notes to take care of for approval.
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 18, 2015 21:14:15 GMT
OK ..thanks to all ...I think I have all this stuff sorted out in my brain and know what lights etc. I will try first etc. Hopefully I will have some good progress in the coming weeks. I may have a buyer for a segment of my business in which case I will need to work my "day gig" hard the next couple of weeks, then will have more time to devote to this project. I will post pics when I have something good to show.
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Post by edvb on Sept 19, 2015 0:26:49 GMT
Good you have a plan now. Both Roger and I have tried a few things before ending up with what we have now. Even the LED H4 lamps was the latest change I did but the reduced heat generated should make my headlights and reflectors last during my lifetime.
As Erik said most of the info is in the manual and in the pictures everyone posted.
You just have to decide what you want to go with for your build. There are plenty of options and pictures shown on this forum to help you decide.
I think almost all of us agree on using the maximum of 4 1/2" for the headlights in order to blend with the overall size of the trike.
Edward
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 19, 2015 11:59:27 GMT
As far as the manual maybe I don't have the latest version because for an inexperienced builder as myself there is a LOT missing .. for instance, just the part about cutting out the depressed casting in the front cowl .. anyway ... if somebody has a newer / better manual please point me to it and yes, the posts on this forum are very very helpful. Actually I did build a kit car about 30 or more years ago ...an MG-TD replica ... but every single nut and bolt and operation was covered in the manual. I had no questions, every single minute detail was covered. I just followed the manual and built the thing and it got beautiful ...as a matter of fact...trimming the fiberglass pieces on this project brought back memories .... that being said ... Erik, Roger and Ed ..your builds and your posts.... . all very very well done. I think I would never get this thing done without this resource.
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Post by edvb on Sept 19, 2015 12:57:42 GMT
I am sure you will get it finished Fred. Just concentrate on one section at a time and it will all come together at the end.
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Post by erik on Sept 19, 2015 21:19:11 GMT
Fred, the MG car you build could be classed as an assembly kit. A kitcar generally has the basic components and you need to fill in the blanks. Because of this the price is nice . This forum is an exeption to kitcar manufacturors because generally these are non-existent. There are 2 manuals, the original Eco-exo and the evolved version Eco-exo-R which is basically the same exept for the additional steering column assy. You can copy the details you like and find a way to redo the things less in favour which is of personal preference. Because of this our Exo's differ quite a bit and that's not only great but food for thoughts too! build one chapter at the time, but order all the fancy items all at once after having some serious thoughts on them as a whole. That'll reduce the costs of the project quite a bit. The threads coveres the missing items in the manual and a few added modifications which could be cloned by Kelvin to make a better product for future costumers. I felt no need to post info found in the manual.
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Post by qdos on Sept 23, 2015 13:28:59 GMT
I tend to agree with Erik about the 'Kit' and the 'Component' car kind of definitions for want of a better phrase and I am of the mindset that likes the freedom to take a design and modify and tune it to my own tastes. However I do tend to agree that the original manuals are somewhat lean let's say. I'll most likely produce some new manuals in the near future as the new trike gets closer to completion it will be a good opportunity to write new manuals alongside documenting that.
The guys here on the forum are great and as I'm sure you've picked up on now they are a helpful bunch who are happy to share their experiences and opinions with fellow builders. It's one of the great things about the Kit Car scene we each love to see other people's work and appreciate all that goes in to building your own vehicles often being the first to pat you on the back to celebrate that "I built that" success and achievement.
Great to see and hear what you are doing and just holla anytime if you want ideas and or second opinions on anything.
By the way I've not forgotten about your bushes and I'll look into Stateside suppliers as I'm sure there will be some.
Kelvin
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 24, 2015 13:15:48 GMT
Progress update. I've built myself a test seat (plywood boards) to play with seat /steeering placement etc. and last night's session I finalized the placement and configuration and the mounting of my steering column. I'm leaving the shaft alone until I am more definite on all this but the mounting is sorted out etc. Also started trimming / cutting out my dash / gauges assembly, cut out the "hole" in the front body work and am starting to test fit / look at that area and how I will mount things etc. Progress is slow but I am slowly moving along.
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Post by qdos on Sept 25, 2015 12:21:38 GMT
Excellent, the more you get done the slower things appear to be moving along and it's all the little detail that takes the time.
When you are trying the seating position out try the trike outdoors at least on the driveway and if at all possible push it onto a roadway so you can try the seating position where you can look down a road. It's surprising how sitting in a garage you can find a nice comfy position that as soon as you get to drive the machine you find is pretty hopeless for highway driving. Most of the stuff you look at is some hundred yards away and not just 6 foot or so as seen sat in a garage. Give things a try out in several different positions and use some spacers such as washers to tilt things temporarily while you try things out.
You're doing fine Roger
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Oct 29, 2015 13:55:06 GMT
update "End of October 2015" . Steering sorted and assembled. Brakes going on now .. making necessary adapters, mounting the manifold, running lines .. fronts on , rears next week. Resevoir on order. Front body mounts done. Dashboard being "sorted" and decision making process, as to how to mount things, in progress. Rear "engine cover bodywork mounting sorted, tabs made just not welded on. Rear fender mounts mostly done. Front turnsignals mounted to "outside" of headlights and mounted. Rear turnsignals - mounting bracked fabricated, mounting this next. License plate mounting stuff acquired and ready to mount. Shop getting more organized as I go so things are getting easier logistically. Also practicing my MIG welding so I mount things without need of my helper. If any of you experienced builders (Ed, Roger, Erik et al) can give me tips on mounting the dash/cowl let me know ... I did examine Erik's setup .. looks very complicated. I'm thinking about mounting tabs on the cross brace and using the screws / mounts that hold on the speedo / etc. .. need somehow to secure the front of the thing ... suggestions? Projected on road date .. Spring 2016 . HERE'S A LINK TO THE PHOTOS (hopefully) shillington pa eco exo 10-28-2015
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Oct 31, 2015 3:04:22 GMT
Today's work : made a bracket to hang the taillights. Mounted that bracket, put edging on the rear bodywork, mounted license plate holder and light assy. Also fired up my welder, cleaned the nozzle / tip etc. just like on the "beginner" youtube video I watched last night. Did a couple of tack welds on scrap ...then took a piece of scrap and welded 2 pieces together. Not so bad. Looks like I'm a decent welder so far anyway ... here's the pic of the first weld of my life.
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Post by edvb on Nov 2, 2015 22:11:12 GMT
Fred
I would go the route that Roger did and have someone that can do some fiberglass repair work with you to make an instrument panel like he did. It will be warmer on the cooler driving days. I think overall it will be easier to do and be sturdier and better looking overall. It also will be easier to remove and replace. I love mine but that is much more complex to build.
Everything looks like it is coming together nicely and by being able to weld will make it much easier. Roger never did any fiberglass work when he talked to me and look how nice his instrument panel and hood turned out! It would be much easier for you as you now have the pictures to see how he did it. Just my thoughts.
Edward
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Post by roger32849 on Nov 4, 2015 11:36:24 GMT
Fred Your build is coming along nicely. The rear fender lights, and signals are well placed. When it comes to lighting, the inspectors may look for the DOT/SAE approval on them. You also need side and rear reflectors (in all states) but the inspector may overlook that as well. Just be prepared for it.
When it comes to the instrument cluster it took 3 tries before I settled on one I could live with. Initially I had the pre import dash and windshield. I believe it was from a 1998 UK spec Burgman. The gauges all worked just fine until one day my trike just quit and I couldn't get it going again. It seems the ECU sends a fault code to the speedometer when something goes wrong. Trouble is, the 1998 speedometer couldn't receive the code so the ECU shut down. I rewired the trike and installed my original 2008 speedometer and made a temp housing out of aluminum to use until I could design and build one out of epoxy.
My first step was to make a filler piece for the handlebar well on the bonnet. This piece is also the bottom support for the gauge cluster as well as the surround for the brake reservoir. Once the filler panel was made, I started on the gauge cluster housing, which was cast in 3 additional moldings. I started with the front and side facia. This piece covers and supports the front and sides of the gauges. Next I cast the top of the gauges wich was a smooth arch following the clusters top and connects with the left and right side facia. Next was the sun visor (duckbill). This piece was simply a piece of dense foam wrapped in fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I attached it to the top piece with the same epoxy and cloth to make them one single piece.
The windshield I used was an OEM unit from a 2008 Burgman. I cut it down and to get the hight I needed as well as the angle. I scuffed up the bonnet around where I planned to place the screen then started layering fiberglass cloth and West Marine epoxy resin to make a custom fit "shoe" that surrounds the lower 3" of the screen. You need to apply plastic packing tape to the windshield to prevent the epoxy from sticking to it. I held the windshield in place with three metal tabs that were screwed into the bonnet and screen. One at the nose and one at each side. Once you have built up a sufficient thickness for adequate support, you can remove the windshield and do the finish work.
What I am trying to convey here is not necessarily a step by step instruction, but more of guide on what comes first, second and third. You can use fiberglass resin or West epoxy. For material you can use carbon fiber or fiberglass cloth.
Keep up the good work.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Nov 4, 2015 16:58:03 GMT
I did examine Erik's setup .. looks very complicated. I'm thinking about mounting tabs on the cross brace and using the screws / mounts that hold on the speedo / etc. .. need somehow to secure the front of the thing ... suggestions? The dash/windscreen bracket is a beefed up original An400 bracket. I only added some strips and extended nuts for mounting (mounted the nuts to the windscreen and lower cover and tack welded the strips in between the nuts and oem bracket, then final welding on the bench thus the nut angles are matching the surface angles without using measuring tools). You will find out yourself the An400 bracket is strong enough to keep the windscreen in place when all panels of the scooter are fitted but on the an400 the windscreen feels very flexible without beefing up this bracket. Yes on pics it does look quite difficult but it wasn't too hard to do. Keep in mind you need to make this bracket removeable or you will not be able to attach the front bonnet. Keep in mind this will take a few evenings to fabricate. It isn't a 30min job but it is very strong and I've no fear the windscreen will come off in my face. tough I have good experience with glassing moulds I wouldn't recommend this route because it's very labour intensive, not healthy working with resins and the stock version looks neat IMO and it matches the original Eco exo (the steering bar version) bodywork well. Others have managed to fix it without resins as well. Have a look at the manual for a more simple alternative.I myself fount it having it too much flex but I guess it's roadworthy.
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Post by roger32849 on Nov 4, 2015 23:45:29 GMT
Well Fred, You have heard from the three builders that are the most current on the forum. You can see we all have our unique way of accomplishing the same result.... as far as the windscreen and gauges go. None of us copied the demo version, we all did it differently. Some of us, and I will not mention names, Eddie, really made a three wheeled Ferarri, while some of us simply did it different. I agree with Erik that resins, epoxy, fiberglass are hazmats and care should be exercised when using them, just as a person walks across the street should use the same care... do it safely, plenty of ventilation, dust mask, goggles,and a rack of BBQ ribs, maybe a little Cole slaw on the side and maybe a cold draft or two. Once you get comfortable with mixing resins, using them, working the material, you will know how to stay safe... safe enough to take a break for dinner without contaminating the entire house with polymer dust. Use caution, but don't be afraid to try. It does take more time, but worth the effort.
This trike should be an evolved effort. I do not know what happened to Jim Cox. He was the first to envision something greater for the Eco-Exo-R. His design was absolutely amazing, he was a person that KNEW RESIN molding like the back of his hand. He dropped off the radar, never to be heard of again. If anybody saw the potential in the Eco-Exo's basic shape, it was him. Eddie and I colaborated on our designs and we came up with the designs we currently have. We both saw something different too, just as Erik did his to emulate his favorite motorcycle, the Ducati Monster.
It is up to you to decide how to do the instrument cluster and windscreen. Jump in and just do it. There is NO wrong way Mr Smoking Guitar Player..... now get out there and make it yours.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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