Post by smokinguitarplayer on Jul 2, 2015 14:11:58 GMT
Rick Mears won the Indy 500 4 times, was a very smart and skilled driver who rarely crashed but he had a couple of crashes hitting walls etc. back in the day when the driver's feet were in front of the front axle line and were "first in" to the wall etc. so for years he couldn't even use the clutch pedal and walks very funny because his feet were "put back together" a few times .. FB
Aha, I see. I'm not an Indy follower so wasn't aware of him.
There are reasons why putting the driver as forward as possible in the trike are advantageous i.e. weight distribution but like you I'm not keen on having my feet being right out in front of the vehicle feeling the way forward. So instead the new trike has the nose extended and room for the radiator up front a bit like Ed's only with a bit more steelwork and not just GRP.
One of the beauties of Kits is that you can build them how you like to suit yourself as is superbly illustrated by both Roger and Ed's machines. Why not have a go yourself at putting together some kind of bumper bars. Just as a brief suggestion how about something along the lines of the AC Cobra front metal work. Or perhaps a spare wheel up front on a mounting.
All sorts of ideas though obviously there's only so much protection that's ever going to be achieved unless you go the whole hog and build a Sherman Tank.
If you really want to get into crash protection one of my other cars is the only Kit Car to have undergone Crash Testing at MIRA. The Midas Gold Coupe
Using the original frame from an Eco Exo and coming up with something that would suit me was a challenge by it's self. Kelvin I am glad you are putting the radiator in front and adding structure to boot.
If I got hit in front the two main frame tubes would help but at a point nothing will save you so I drive pretty defensively.
Here is a picture with all the body panels off. Overall it turned out better than expected and with over 2000 miles it has been super reliable and bulletproof. What more could I ask. It is the best ride to date yet!
Thanks for the photo Ed. Good to see how you did the radiator mounting. The added advantage of having the radiator in the nose is that it supplies warm air to the cockpit, something I know very well from the Deronda, which is very welcome on a winter's day.
It's not difficult to put a bit more steelwork across the front behind the frame to help spread any loading and flatten an impact area. a thin sheet of steel would help on that front.
At the end of the day remember these are more a bike than a car and on a bike there's naff all (English for very little) protection other than what you are wearing.
I do really really like the styling you brought to the front end with your trike Ed, if you were in the UK I'd ask if you would mind if I took a mould off it and offered it as an option on the Eco-Exo.
I only use the left stalk for turn and Hi-Lo beam.
I normally do not drive in rainy conditions so no problem for me.
I made a custom carbon instrument housing to fit the carbon hood so nothing is stock.
My hood is quick release so it only takes a minute to take it off and you are at the pictures below. One screw and the instrument panel can be removed. These are some older pictures before I got my new steering wheel.
This is the point of creativity of what you want the trike to look like. Roger made two versions of his instrument panels to get it to where he is now and did a super job of it.
Scott's was an earlier version so you will be blazing new territory!
Good luck on your instrument panel but now you have a few ideas to help when building yours.
I do like Rogers idea if you are making it more stock and would follow that route if were me.
Yes, it would of been great if we were on the same side of the pond. The radiator has a sealed cowling in back and down drafts under the trike. I was not worried about heat as much as having the cold or hot air flow blowing directly on my feet. It is very efficient and the temp needle stay exactly in the middle after it warms up no matter what the temperature is outside even at idle sitting in traffic.
Post by smokinguitarplayer on Jul 9, 2015 3:25:06 GMT
Progress ... ready to make it a "roller" .. just waiting for nuts/bolts etc. from Fastenal ... and some bits from the machine shop. Test fit the swing arm ...I guess we will need to remove the airbox ... looks like a clearance issue for sure ... also gas tank brackets will have to be totally reconfigured. The dry build is progressing.
Post by smokinguitarplayer on Aug 27, 2015 15:15:10 GMT
My build is progressing , slowly but I'm making good progress at my own pace. I have a question for all who have successfully built one of these. What steering wheel did you use and are you satisfied with it ... clearance for your legs etc. etc. ? removable? etc. Thanks for helping.
Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 3, 2015 15:01:33 GMT
my status front suspension on , brake calipers on and aligned ... , all proper nuts / bolts / spacers etc. done rear end / transaxle mounted , all proper nuts / bolts / spacers etc. done radiator mounted with new bigger fan steering column , radisupports next gas tank rear mount done , still need some sort of front mount very soon start making and welding on panel mounting tabs / brackets. We're gonna dry fit all the big stuff, then disassemble, do the floor, then start "real" assembly. Welder has been serviced, all supplies in , ready to go , Metal purchased to make all tabs / brackets. I have a long way to go, progress is slow but starting to move faster. My helper is a total expert. He's an Indycar engineer and fabricator and I know him since he was a little kid. He can do almost anything and really skilled. Also owns a auto parts supply and repair business. I'm sort of following his lead..... this project is "small potatoes" for him so I'm in good hands. Pictures have loaded asbove this text for some reason ..
The rad hosing can be made with the original hose cut in 3 pieces. Be aware the engine will pivot thus thehose needs to be able to flex the radial way or it could tear open. Have a peek in my thread how I cut the original coolant hose.
My steerig wheel gives clearance on the dash. It's a simple chinese one, no leather, foam or any kind of material which can absorb water/rain. The Exo steers very light so no big steering wheel needed, However, at higher speed a small steering wheel could make driving itchy as Edward mentioned in his thread. A removeable hub is not needed and could bring the steering wheel uncomfortably close to the driver. try without first.