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Post by spudman on Nov 10, 2014 7:54:11 GMT
Well there's no going back now: In the end I convinced myself that the shell would stay in shape without added reinforcing, and if there was any shift, then I should be able to release it by detaching the sills, and then putting in the framework - easier done with the hole open first. As it turns out, the gamble paid off, nothing went pop (the fibreglass is already quite thick around the edge of the boot line), and using the blade from a mitre saw it was quite quick and easy to cut (jigsaw blades went blunt almost immediately). Next step is a lip for the boot to close against, which will also serve to reinforce the opening. The sides of the opening parallel to the car are very sturdy already, due to the curve, but there's a bit of wobble at top and bottom. Sturdy timber would be fine, but current thinking is steel, possibly braced against the chassis at a few points for extra strength. I'll close in the underside of the boot with aluminium or polypropylene sheeting, and build a ply liner for the storage compartment. If I can get right out into the sides, then there's a significant area available. Definitely not a step that will speed up the build, but no regrets - yet.
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Post by R2S on Nov 10, 2014 13:30:11 GMT
Like what you've done there Spudman, assume hinges at rear are a necessity of the fairing? I am still keen to carry a spare (at the very least a space saver) so this could be the solution although I'm more likely to go lift out rather than hinged.
Couldn't help but notice the fog light; are these the ones now supplied with the kit? I am going down the route of a modern fog/reversing light combo mounted below the number plate (assuming I can meet IVA requirements) in a custom housing and moving all the other lights in one (again not sure if reflector on next mounting inwards will meet IVA).
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Post by spudman on Nov 10, 2014 21:10:34 GMT
Yes, with the shape of the hump a hinge at the top wouldn't have worked (unless you get really fancy with bonnet type hinges mounted underneath). I'm only just thinking now that hinges to the side might have been possible, and would have made access easier, T-shaped mini type hinges would fit, and it would naturally be a bit sturdier too. Ho hum. I'm also thinking I should have lined the right hinge up with the hump, and spaced the left one accordingly. Bugrit. I think I will fit a full size spare with no problems, the space saver definitely fits, but I may go to higher profile tyres at some point, and that will make things tight.
The fog is the e-marked one that Stuart sent in exchange for the original lucas one supplied - I don't know if this is the standard provision now. The chrome surround is from an extra one of the original type, which happens to fit nicely. Away from home for a few days now, so will be itching to get back to it next week!
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 11, 2014 6:23:43 GMT
spudman.. Really nice work on the boot.. You might have started something among builders.. how about a pin bonded to each forward side of the boot and a plate with hole bonded to underside of body for it to drop into. It would stop the wiggle. You will have to make ledge all around the body for the boot to set against with a rubber seal to keep water out.. Don't forget a drain at each rear corner.. Nice work..
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Post by spudman on Jan 19, 2015 23:45:01 GMT
A bit more progress on the boot, have built a lip out of timber contoured to fit, with a rebate along the edge to make space for a rubber seal. Frame sections were bonded in using fibreglass resin, and I've started adding more fibreglass reinforcing underneath to make sure it's well attached. The mesh in the picture is reinforcing from a builders merchant stapled in to place, I thought this should help strengthen the bond to the shell. The shell was actually pretty rigid before this, the top section (with the hump) wobbled a little, but I hadn't the panels attached behind seats at that time. This is now done, and that section is now nice and rigid. With the timber in of course it is very sturdy and businesslike. Quite pleased with the steel reinforcing on the bottom edge (this section is the wrong way round in the picture btw, rebate should be at the top), which means that section of frame at least is bolted to the shell. With the frame in place I've sealed around with PU, and then applied the rubber seal. Hadn't thought of drain holes, thanks gwnwar, I'll being adding those later. Manufactured a steel box to fit in the corner of the boot and mount the filler, then discovered that the filler pipe won't clear the chassis underneath, bad planning there. I've shortened it a bit and it will fit in the position as shown, but I think with a bit more jigging about I'll make it work in the corner as planned. First question, I need a length of flexible fuel hose, will the 45mm ID stuff fit? Anyone used this? The tank connection looks more like 48 mm to me. I've asked carbuildersolutions who sell it, but no reply yet. The boot lid closes quite nicely in line with the shell, but will need a locking mechanism that pulls it in tight, which leads on to my second question: I really want to use a handle as pictured: The plan is for it to drive rods into the sides and top that will pull the lid in firmly to the rim. It will however stick up a good bit, and I expect it'll be "contactable" in IVA-speak, although it's to the rear of the cockpit and I haven't found any specific reference to protrusions in this area. In my mind it would be no more damaging for a pedestrian to encounter a handle like this, than the back edge of the cockpit - which is obviously acceptable as is. Any thoughts anyone? Is this likely to be legal? The alternative is to use the boot mechanism from the MX5, which won't stick out much, would be elegant in that the same key will fit, but would put a lot of stress on the key to drive the locking mechanism. I'd need another way to make the boot close tightly I think. Suggestions welcome! In other news, I've started wiring up the dials, getting the separate dials out of the cluster was easy, and I think I've got them wired in right (only oil, fuel and temp connected so far), but they seem deadish with the ignition on. Maybe I need them all connected before they work. Yes, I'm sure that's it. My led tell tales work nicely (once I got them right way round), these are chrome ringed jobbies for about a pound each off ebay. Also pleased with my push/pull switches for lights etc, although wiring up the full/dip beam switch is going to be a puzzle, may need another relay there. For the hazard lights a tell tale is needed, final question for now: is it ok if this consists of both indicator tells flashing, or does it need to be a dedicated (red?) chap? Still loving the build, the boot project has certainly slowed things down, but will be well worth it. Happy New Year to all and look forward to seeing continued progress (and driving adventures) on the other blogs. Cheers Spud
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 20, 2015 1:45:05 GMT
Great work!
Have you thought of an electric latch or even an electric open/close, maybe using the headlamp retractor motors.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 20, 2015 12:58:26 GMT
Section 25 of the IVA manual
Note 1: The “Main Beam” tell tale can either blue in colour, or a tell tale (any colour - preferably blue) with the symbol (see section 33) or a tell tale any colour and the words Main Beam or Main.
As such I don't think you can re-use the indicator tells.
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Post by Stiggy on Jan 20, 2015 18:36:54 GMT
great work Sir!
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Post by R2S on Jan 21, 2015 9:10:56 GMT
Spud
I wasn't planning to make the boot open but you have planted the seed based on how well yours has come out, great job (assume you are lining the boot?).
On the fuel filler I am planning to effectively switch from original position in boot lid 180 degrees to top left when viewed from rear, do I understand from your post that this is likely to clear frame or will some moding be required? I am using the whole MX5 flip up cap assembly bonded to the glass fibre body.
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Post by spudman on Jan 21, 2015 20:35:58 GMT
Hi R2S, it sounds like you're thinking of the same spot I wanted mine, and there's a triangulating type brace directly below. I've snipped a bit off the end of the steel filler (including the no return valve, which I'm hoping isn't an IVA requirement), and it's better, but still no danger of cigars. If you have leeway to bring it down a tad then it will clear, there is some room to the right also, but not much because of the tank. I think you'll find space, but definitely measure it up carefully before you go making holes.
Yes, current thinking is a marine ply liner, I have a clear picture in my mind. Rugs and hampers are involved. So far the boot project has been a success, go for it I reckon.
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Post by stevednorris on Jan 31, 2015 11:08:57 GMT
Hi Spud,
Good job on the boot. I was just looking through the IVA manual (my copy is a couple of years old) and came across this about fuel fillers:
14. Fuel tank filling points must not be located in the passenger compartment, luggage compartment or within an engine compartment.
It might be worth checking in the latest IVA manual to see it this still applies.
Steve.
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Post by spudman on Feb 1, 2015 10:23:11 GMT
Hi Steve, current version also has that requirement - thanks for letting me know. This must be to prevent fuel spilling into the luggage area, maybe in the case of overturning so that fuel can't accumulate in a confined space? I wonder if I have the luggage compartment partitioned separately will that be sufficient to say that the filler isn't in the luggage compartment. I guess if it's behind the same door then they'll say it's the same compartment. Suspect I have to rethink this.
I also noticed in the previous point that a vent is needed for the tank - is that what doubled as the charcoal cannister thing in the mx5? Which I've removed and blanked off... or is there something else integral to the mx5 tank that does this job already?
Off to find a wall to bang my head against.
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Post by stevednorris on Feb 1, 2015 11:43:50 GMT
Hi Spud,
Hope you find an easy solution to the fuel filler.
I built an AK427 a few years ago, on that I just fitted a vented fuel cap, passed IVA no problems.
I also had the same boot handle you want to use, again this caused no problems on the IVA, it was fitted to the rear of the boot lid though.
Steve.
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Post by spudman on Feb 3, 2015 19:43:42 GMT
Thanks Steve, now you mention it I think the mx5 standard one is vented, so that's how that issue is covered. I think first approach with the filler may be to present for IVA with the boot unlined and just call it a very spacious filler cap, but ask them if I did make it into a boot, would it be ok to partition off the filler and still be compliant. Not wanting to get around the rules, but not wanting to do extra work unnecessarily either. If they say no dice then I'll feel happier about putting in a filler somewhere else.
I'm pretty sure the handle will be a fail where I want it, since it'll be sticking up more or less vertically, but I have a plan B in mind that I'm happy with - flush mounting catch as used on boats, there are some really nice ones about.
Cheers Spud
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Post by np4wicked on Feb 4, 2015 11:07:12 GMT
Hi Spud...... Love the work on the boot. Re fuel tank we fitted a vented locking cap mid 'boot' on DeBoRah build. We blocked off the small tank vent pipe and just used the large filler pipe which was the metal reinforced type to avoid kinks. It works ok and passed IVA BUT the tank will only fill to 3/4 full, and filling is problematic as air cant escape as we put fuel in. We are now gonna refit a vent pipe so we can get more in the tank and get round the filling prob. Keep up good work!
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