A few questions

[newtrikebuilder]

I've only just reallised that the top ring is larger than the bottom one, but on some trikes it looks like they are the same though. The black chassis starts off smaller at the front of the bottom ring, and then comes out to the same size as the top. Is there a good reason for making the bottom one smaller? Is it for the wishbones?

I guess the seat is a go-kart one? I've seen different size ones, I'm guessing that it is a 'small' one?

What size RHS do you use on the black chassis for the main rails, is it 1.25" so that it matches the tube at the top?

What size wheels have you tried on the rear and what would you recommend. I have been thinking about a 13" car wheel because there are so many available. It is also possible to find second hand space saver spares that have never been used. What sort of width is best? Some of the spares are around 135mm wide.

[Stiggy]

I used 25mm x 25mm with a 1.5 mm wall thickness. The round tube version has 30mm erw tube with a 1.5 wall.
The size of the tray for the batteries is the best point to decide on the width of the chassis.
Wheels need to be small diameter so that you can get the best ratio for the motor design speed.
I used trailer wheels for that same reason. 3-1 reduction on a chain is as far as you should need to go.

[wiggy25]

Just got the plan set.
A bit on the vague side.
I wouldn't say it would be an easy build, lots of sort it out yourself to do.

I can't see how it was built for £2000.
If you have all the tools required up front, you can weld to a good standard and know where to find all the parts required you maybe able to get it near that.

As it's £1000+ for motor and controller, before looking at batteries, I just can't see it.
Still trying to work out exactly what parts are needed from which donor vehicle and where to source them from, checked the links out in the build manual, these suppliers don't seem to have any of the required parts.
It's ok saying look around the internet to find what you need but only if you know what will or won't be suitable.

Initial excitment soon wiped out after paying for the plan set.

[tr1kerfozzy]

I feel for you mate, the tR1ke was supposed to be a bolt together kit but I'm still making bits, buying extra bits and muddling through.

If you just accept it will cost more and take longer then you can't be disappointed.

I'm assured it's worth it in the end!

[roadtrackrace]

May 22, 2010 16:04:45 GMT tr1kerfozzy said:

I feel for you mate, the tR1ke was supposed to be a bolt together kit but I'm still making bits, buying extra bits and muddling through.

If you just accept it will cost more and take longer then you can't be disappointed.

I'm assured it's worth it in the end!

I can assure you it is worth it. As tR1ke customer no.1 it was always going to be voyage of discovery both for us and for you. Rest assured that any and all problems that you may have will be resolved and the first time you drive down the road in it the pain of building your kit (and this does apply to any kit) will be replaced by the joy of driving it.

RTR

[newtrikebuilder]

I'm glad it's not just me then. It's difficult to match up the plans to the photos because every trike is slightly different, and I don't think any of them match the plans completely.

From what I was seeing on ebay the second hand quad parts were looking expensive. I'm now considering getting front bits from a Ford. These parts are easy to buy new as they are used in the Locost. So the front end would be very much like a Locost. Not sure if it would work though. The major components are just over £3000, but that doesn't include tools, body work, paint or other small bits. So I'm hoping for £4000, but it's likely to be a bit more.

[wiggy25]

I'm now looking at maybe a different way of doing it.

In the general chat section of the forum Mastarforth has bought a 250cc trike.




I have seen these on Ebay from £1400-£3000.
Buying one of the cheap ones, it would be easier to convert to electric drive, would need to look at motor fixings but seems much cheaper and easier than building the Etrike from scratch.

Also looks rather good as well!

[newtrikebuilder]

I think there will be a few problems with that pre-built trike. The first I see is that the tyres are massive, so the range and acceleration will be reduced. The other issue is that it is much taller, so it will probably handle very differently. It does look very good though.

[coco]

I'm really glad to read all the recent comments in this and the other etrike areas...... I thought I was the only one struggling with how to build my etrike for less than about £3500!!!
I also agree that tools, etc will be costly for those of us without fully equipped workshops.
So far I have used KLF300 (2WD) parts for the front set up. I have used a local firm for tube bending, and flea-bay for everything else (seat, wheels, tyres, brake parts, welding consumables, etc, etc). After all that I still don't have anything I could describe as looking like an etrike!!!
I am really struggling with paying £1000 for a motor etc (or $1000 for that matter) when a perfectly good scooter can be got for £500 or less. After checking my eco-conscience, I think I will be buying a scooter and building the back end up with that: more of a cctrike than an etrike!
Whilst I share the enthusiasm for a battery powered commuter vehicle, I guess the general opinion seems to be that battery technology, as yet, does not allow this - if your journey is long and/or on the motorway at least.