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Post by mattyboy on Nov 10, 2013 18:22:52 GMT
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Post by mattyboy on Nov 10, 2013 18:28:19 GMT
My friend says she rides like new, so she's now chained to the wall in my garage. Lol. Got some more cash off too due to the exhaust not being Arkopovich as advertised. It's a nice sticker though. Where do you start stripping these things? Any suggestions welcome. Thanks
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Post by erik on Nov 10, 2013 20:34:11 GMT
Nice!!
Easiest route is to remove a part, make a pic, place and tag them in a bag, have a browse on internet for the value. Make a spreadsheet of the parts list and value to see the total value of adds you will make and if it will be acceptable close to balance the donor investment. Do remove, advertise and store about 5 pieces at a time/evening. Don't hesitate to ask us if you need to keep an item or not for your project.
good luck!
Erik
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Post by erik on Nov 10, 2013 20:40:23 GMT
Oh, do include the small parts like bolts, nuts and washers on every part advertised and do advertise with :"all small parts pictured are included". This will make your add stand out of the crowd. usually sold parts are stripped down to the bone but many like to have original bolts etc to complete their bike. If your price is in the higher price range of adds on the net you will have an advantage vs other breakers.
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Post by slugshot on Nov 10, 2013 23:37:03 GMT
Hi Matt, She looks too nice to strip but needs must hey. Once the fairing and exhaust is off you can sit the bike on a stand or a box under the motor, this makes it easy to take the forks and swingarm out. When pulling it apart label every electrical connector and coolant hose, it may look obvious were they go now but after a few weeks and its a pile of wires in your garage it will make life easier. Don't loose the engine mounting bolts for the cylinder head as they're a fine thread and can be re used. And if you plan to take your time with the build its a good idea to run the fuel system dry to stop any possible blockages. PS.. Well done figuring out how to post a picture will you be starting a build thread as at the rate you're going you will soon have a full page of separate threads Cheers Kevin
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Post by erik on Nov 11, 2013 7:46:44 GMT
Yeah! use notes on tape and colored T-wraps on the connectors as well. I found it to be a great help to track down the location where to fit the sensors to. Some connectors look alike. I used multiple combinations of colored T-wraps. Having 6 colors makes endless combos.
Add t-Wraps tot to the spark plug wiring to (1 for plug 1, 2T-wraps for plug 2 etc) to capture the perfect order.
Thanks to this the loom modification was a breeze for me. using the original bike switches makes it easy as well.
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Post by seabee70 on Nov 11, 2013 14:40:11 GMT
Drain the coolant & oil to save weight. If I remember correctly,the motor weighs approx.75# The head pipes need not be on either, until after the motor is in the kit. Order new spark plugs & oil filter.
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Post by mattyboy on Nov 11, 2013 21:23:29 GMT
Hi again Slugshot. I will start a build thread, but I have to clear the garage first & I will spare you the boredom of pictures etc , it's probably for the best. I guess the downside to this is me not being able to resist the urge of posting in the mean while. Lol! I apologise in advance, I hope you will get use to me . I am paranoid that my garage is going to be broken into and the bike nicked so I am keen to start the strip down. I may move the engine to a more secure location then. Have fitted all sorts of devices to garage and disabled bike in as many ways as I can think of. Is there any problems with running fuel oil and water dry before storage. It could be a while before I use the engine again. I haven't even contacted RTR yet and haven't got a clue about lead times etc..... For all I know it could be a year before it is fired up again. I was going to change the following items. Sprockets & Chain (Heavy Duty) Spark plugs Oil filter Air Filter Clutch & springs (Heavy Duty) Is it worth sending the engine to a specialist to have the Head gasket done and the timing gear checked? Would this be very pricey?
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Post by slugshot on Nov 11, 2013 23:25:59 GMT
Hi Matt, You post as many times as you like, you will always get a response from fellow tR1ke owners.
You can drain the motor of oil and coolant after you run the injection system dry of fuel,cover the motor to keep and moisture off it if its going to be a while.
The tR1ke is very easy on the drive chain as long as its sprayed with chain lube every 2 to 300 miles. I have actually swapped to a lighter 520 x ring chain and so far its done 6000 miles and its not stretched yet.
It would be worth putting new plugs and filters in but the clutch spring is not like a multi spring setup, it has a car type spring, if it doesn't slip I would leave it alone.
If the head gasket doesn't leak leave it as they are normally very reliable I wouldn't disturb it, the same goes for the cam chain as it has an auto tensioner.
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Post by mattyboy on Nov 12, 2013 6:28:04 GMT
In that case I shall keep on posting then . I have ordered a Haines Manual for R1 from ebay, thanks for all the great suggestions.Matt
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2013 15:07:41 GMT
damn fine looking machine, too nice to strip.... :-) So go and buy a ratty looking one instead.. You should be able to get a nice amount back for the fairing and bodywork, All the front end should return good money for people using this model as a track day bike, start to take all parts off you defo dont need, and tag them, keep all parts from the engine back, keep the loom etc, clocks, switchgear, sensors, radiator etc etc. Make a list of all the parts you have removed and submit it on here, for people to say what you need for sure and what you can sell. If you have ridden the bike then at least you know its in good order, that was one thing I didn't do and it bit me on the @rse. Ask as many questions as you need to.
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Post by mattyboy on Nov 12, 2013 19:45:01 GMT
In case any one else is interested I found these on ebay for £20 from China. Someone has stubbed a cigarette out on mine and its melted below the change light, so as long as the quality is ok this will be a cheap solution. They do them for other models too.
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Post by mattyboy on Nov 29, 2013 17:03:46 GMT
OK so I have cleared my garage 99% done. I have ordered the trike today and have a collection date of the end of Jan. These are the options that I took. Non coated frame for Mig Welding Quick steering rack Powerflex bushes Hi Spec handbrake system Kliktronic Paddle-shifters Ignition Interrupt module Trike Reverse Tangerine body (going for beveled wings) I didn't order the front brakes as I would like gold calipers if possible. Can anyone tell me if Tarox or AP do any suitable calipers. If not exactly which Hi Spec caliper do I order, is it ultralite 4 radial? Which thickness disk is it for? Do I order focus st170 rear discs? This is what I can gather from other posts, but I am still not sure. I think I am going to get Team Dynamic pro race 1.2 17inch and the following seats, Inta Trim Endeavor II Wide. This is great as they come in Fat bast*rd size Lol . I am on a diet in preparation though too. Any opinions on the seat are welcome as I am not sure how they will look. I have the following too. Haines Manual for R1 New socket set New tool box Sealey Torque wrench on order £27 amazon (Bargain) New spanner sets New speedo enclosure I am going to Jet wash & seal the Garage foor with tanking slurry this weekend as it gets a bit damp in the corners. I will latex screed it after that and paint it grey. I then need to install an electrical socket and find some second hand UPVC pedestrian doors for it. It's all go around here. Lol
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2013 17:50:52 GMT
Its just as cheap to get brakes through RTR instead of making a C0ck up and ordering the wrong ones to maybe save you £30?
HiSpec do them in Silver, Black, Gold, Blue,
The same wheels as me, mine have the letters on the wheels inked in, it took ages, but it really sets them apart from other wheels. I also did the same with my black HiSpec caliper lettering.
The HiSpec SVA caliper is okay for the MSVA, but once you have passed that I would recommend a hydraulic one, the SVA caliper although working off a disc, is crap and no matter what I did, I was unable to get anything like the pressure needed for a steep hill start.
I still have my caliper should my MOT Station not like my hydraulic one, but after my conversation with them, I see no issue with a Hydro caliper over cable.
I opted for full size Cobra Monaco signature series seats, comfy, and made for my big ass. My TR1KE is made for comfort more than speed. Kevin's is made for Speeeeeeed
Tangerine should look nice.
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Post by mattyboy on Nov 29, 2013 21:22:40 GMT
Thanks Venom. I always want the best deal but for once I wasn't really worried about the £30 odd pounds. I thought I would go for orange body with Black frame and gold brakes. Will RTR supply gold calipers then? I thought they would probably stock just black. Also I would quite like to choose disks. I have been looking at your seats online they look pretty cool.Any advise on nuts and bolts.... What am I likely to need?
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