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Post by bingo on Feb 19, 2014 13:50:56 GMT
Looked at loads of different ways to mount the seats, not keen on a few bits of flat bar holding by 20+ stone of slender physique in place when I decide to have a close look at some random wall.
This is my solution, I intend to bond the seats to ally blocks on final assembly
Would love some feed back on these!!!!
The seat are mounted to these brackets using 3no. 6mm X 20mm button heads with penny washer. Surprisingly you do not feel the buttons head on your tender rear so may up them to 8mm. what's peoples thoughts???.
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Post by bingo on Feb 19, 2014 13:56:06 GMT
Me and Daddy Bingo
Notice the trailer in the back ground, its time to take her on a maiden voyage to RTR to have the exhaust fitted. Then it will be back home to be stripped and powder coated ready for Christmas (I'm a couple of months behind with my build diary)
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 19, 2014 17:55:33 GMT
Why are rtr making your exhaust? Why not an exhaust specialist? You will be paying thr same amount no doubt..
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Post by airforceone on Feb 19, 2014 18:10:20 GMT
You can buy the manifold and cat from them, I wouldn't worry about the back box yet. I dropped mine of for the IVA with them and they fitted the back box then.
I had the car running for months on just the manifold and cat.
Same you loads on trailering it the RTR.
Even if you get the manifold and cat from them get a local specialist to make a bespoke box.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 19, 2014 18:22:47 GMT
I like the look of the blocks, how did you cut them?
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Post by bingo on Feb 19, 2014 22:11:37 GMT
It went yo RTR back in December for tge pipe to be fitted, just behind with my build diary. The reason for using RTR is that I liked Mabbs exhaust and they built his so it was just easier
Sent from my SM-N9005 using proboards
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Post by bingo on Feb 19, 2014 22:17:01 GMT
I like the look of the blocks, how did you cut them? Machined on a CNC miller. A friend of mines reckons they could have been lazer cut. The only draw back is the weight, if I was doing them again I would probably machine a little more material away from the inners, or even cut some holes Sent from my SM-N9005 using proboards
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 20, 2014 8:53:20 GMT
Pinch them together and pillar drill them as pairs and remove some material
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 20, 2014 8:58:31 GMT
You could get a triangular slot cut in them at the rear following the shape in that area, it would keep them pretty
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Post by bingo on Feb 20, 2014 9:07:51 GMT
Considered all them options, but I think I'd rather have a bit of more weight and a lot more strength. Crashing one of these, the seats are the weak point. Rag doll comes to mind
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Post by bingo on Feb 20, 2014 13:29:50 GMT
The chassis is stripped and ready for powder coating, decided at the last minute to fit a floor to the nose section, at least its easier to remove if not required, the is to fit once fully built.
Roughly cut to shape so I could use my awesome invention
Its a thing of beauty!!!!
Now here it is in action
Very simple idea really, its patented so nobody best be copying it
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Post by bingo on Feb 21, 2014 14:13:17 GMT
It now the Saturday before Christmas and I have just collected the chassis from powder coating, I have gone for gun metal grey.... Never again, the black pigment reacted in some places, so may have t have a rethink on coating once IVA has been done. On the up side it was done for free.
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Post by mawdo81 on Feb 21, 2014 16:40:24 GMT
How have you attached the floor of the nose? Is it just round the outside and not across the chassis? Or are you having a small overlap? Thinking of having a complete floor, front to back but 1 piece seems like it might be too restrictive.
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Post by shaggy33 on Feb 21, 2014 16:46:44 GMT
My floor at front overlaps the main floor section slightly which I will address at a later date cos I think the overlap is a bit too big.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 21, 2014 17:30:48 GMT
Some strong tape will cover that nicely
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