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Post by R2S on Apr 10, 2014 20:04:04 GMT
all rear frame bolts out with exception of the front 'sleeved' ppt diff bolt and despite my previous decision to leave it alone i made the mistake of trying again, completely destroyed four more sockets and frustration got the better of me so on went the monkey wrench. I have now totally knackered the bolt head. Looks like i'll be drilling the old bolt out at the weekend - with a bit of luck. Couldn't believe how easily all the other rear suspension bolts (other than the lower hub one of course) came off which makes me think it has had some work to set up in the not too distant past.
Never realise i'd spend more time dismantling than building, once everything is stripped i'll start the clock and prepared to put money on car being 'built' in half the time it took to strip!
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 11, 2014 18:17:46 GMT
Gary.. I always use impact sockets 6point on thing like this, have not broken or stripped one yet.. Have you given thought to just cutting the PPF off the diff. (hot wrench or grinder) It would save time and keep the blood pressure down.. Just get a 5 speed PPF to replace with NOT an automatic one.. make sure it comes with new bolts,washers and spacers too.. I believe that long bolt is graded have fun drilling it..Add up cost of bits need to a used PPF.. John might even have one at home..
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 11, 2014 19:08:01 GMT
6 Point impact socket is the way to go, if the bolt head is totally ruined it might be worth trying to hammer on a 16 mm socket, the hammering will help to break it loose.
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Post by R2S on Apr 11, 2014 20:20:17 GMT
gwnwar - i am beginning to think you are right and solution is to cut off ppf from diff
snowbird1 -Used loads of heat and two 16mm sockets (both split) before i resorted to the monkey wrench and now have a completely rounded head.
I have spotted something on youtube where a guy is using something called turbo sockets, looked like the solution until i looked at the cost for a set circa £150! (again ppf replacement is a better option).
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 11, 2014 22:11:39 GMT
Check eBay "miata mx5 PPF" just make sure the top push in nuts for back side bolts are in the PPF and the spacer and washer bolts are included. If top nuts are loose in frame restake them in.. Prices on eBay @ $30.00.. might want to see if Stuart has one.. Get out the hot wrench..
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Post by R2S on Apr 16, 2014 17:10:19 GMT
Looks like i should have used these guys for the strip down.
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 16, 2014 17:26:58 GMT
Nice and best of all almost no rust on the subs..
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 17, 2014 14:50:04 GMT
it seemed to take them an age, what were they messing about at! It only a few minutes, see here;
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Post by R2S on Apr 22, 2014 10:30:22 GMT
very good, and something akin to way i am working (although i am clearly the tortoise version), breaking down donor and stripping by corners painting and setting out on mat next to chassis before re-assembly.
No work over the long weekend as weather was too good (when was last time you could say that at Easter in the Derbyshire Peaks) to be inside (Loads of landscaping completed on the farm).
By the way loving the MC Mills bit by Stuart, but where is the bling?
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 22, 2014 10:46:50 GMT
gold chain is under my jacket!
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Post by R2S on Apr 30, 2014 21:37:55 GMT
Ok I know i said i'd get another ppf and simply cut the old one off the diff but I am a stubborn Yorkshireman. After several days of soaking, heating and bashing i ended up cutting the bolt into three pieces using the trusty dremel. Reason bolt wouldn't come out is that the collar, which sits in the diff and diff spacer, had completely bonded itself to the bolt with the result that once i had got the nut (round one on top of ppf) off and tried to hammer the bolt out it shattered the casing of the cast spacer! Ended up cutting the bolt into three to allow me to get at collar which i cut along its length to get it off shank of bolt and then bolt dropped out.
End result i have destroyed:- The bolt The cast spacer The cast spacer sleeve And have damaged the spacer at the nut end but at least diff and ppf are now parted. Note bolt head (at left of picture) is completely destroyed, had to rely on monkey wrench. Broken cast spacer fixing still attached to diff, note wooden drive shaft.
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Post by russ69 on May 4, 2014 7:22:24 GMT
Yorkshire man or not them drive shafts need changing hopefully I will see some d b r,s today going to donnington historic raceing Ashton's c,d type,s and listers
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Post by russ69 on May 4, 2014 7:30:33 GMT
Forgot to say any progress is good and you are making progress which is more than me at moment as my girls are emptying the coffers uni next year oh dear
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Post by R2S on May 4, 2014 17:11:57 GMT
Russ 69
Its the AMOC meeting at Oulton Park, next Saturday the 10th, I usually attend and had planned to go but her in-doors is working and the dad taxi service is required throughout the day by the teens!
Just got back from Stoneleigh, Stuart has the Red Replicar on the stand, didn't get chance to speak to him as every time i passed he was deep in conversation with a buyer (?).
I did however meet up with snowbird 1 who is back from the states and spent over 2hrs talking cars and his replicar build (time flew by.... sorry Scharlene if we bored you to death).
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Post by R2S on Jun 11, 2014 19:16:02 GMT
ok still not much progress but latest is:- Bought a recon rear diff and axles complete with the casting that i broke Eagle eyed will note this is not an ABS rear end but that doesn't matter as current thinking is to ditch ABS due to substantial change in complete wheel and tyre diameter I am going for, looking to go at least 70% aspect ratio but may even go 82%. Have done quite a bit of reading about Deox C so thought I'd try some on dismantled rear end here are the before pictures from 10:30 this morning. will check tomorrow and Friday (discs already come up like new, callipers and upper arms still some way to go. On the subject of suspension I'd welcome any thought/guidance on spring rates suggestion is 400/300 but not sure this will give me the 'soft' ride I am looking for for fast road use (I appreciate large tyre wall will give some compliance).
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