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Post by R2S on Apr 13, 2018 19:24:57 GMT
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 13, 2018 20:33:04 GMT
I bought a set of rings off ebay for nearly a 1/3 of that price. (approx. £28 inc delivery) link to similar www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX5-MX-5-98-05-Chrome-Cluster-gauge-Dashboard-rings-speedo-Trim-instrument/222435848984?hash=item33ca35b318:g:bjEAAOSwEzxYVVopAs regards a template, there is one as part of your donor instrument cluster. Dismantle the cluster binnacle and remove the moulded clear Perspex cover. Unclip the black trim from the front of the cluster and cut away the top 'hooded' part and the peripheral material to remove the locating tabs - so that you are left with a flat template. When you have worked out where the cluster is going to sit on the rear of the dash, drill a hole to accommodate the odometer reset spindle. Mask off the front of the dash and place the template on top. Use a 5mm drill to locate the corresponding hole in the template with that drilled in the dash for the odometer spindle. Swivel the template around the drill until you are happy with its alignment with the dash and use it as a stencil to draw the necessary holes for the various instruments etc. I then used a 90mm holesaw for the speedo/tacho and a 42mm for the three smaller dials and gradually opened them up with a half round file until the polished rings were a tight fit. Hopefully these pics will clarify. BTW, don't be tempted to use wrinkle paint on your dash. It will come out patchy (as I found to my cost). Spent ages rubbing it back and I'm now going to have it covered with a textured leather effect vinyl wrap instead. the template needs to be re-glued to the front of the cluster so as to prevent light bleeding around sides when illuminated. Also I used big head fasteners tiger-sealed in place on rear of dash. A 1mm thick piece of clear perspex (couple of pounds on ebay) was glued to rear of dash behind instrument holes and cluster needs to be stood off from back of dash with washers so as to prevent the proud centre bosses of tacho and speedo fouling the Perspex. The final result is a pretty convincing effect of individual instruments when viewed from front. Will post a pic when dash is back from vinyl wrapping.
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Post by R2S on Apr 13, 2018 21:41:29 GMT
Great post Andy all made sense, looks like I have my next job sorted Dont know if its poss but worth adding to the Replicar build guide. Worth saying Ive kept my dash to avoid any complications, however minor, fitting after market gauges (Speedo), also means its matched to the donor wheels and standard MX5 tyres which I will be using for IVA.
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 13, 2018 22:04:11 GMT
Great post Andy all made sense, looks like I have my next job sorted Dont know if its poss but worth adding to the Replicar build guide. Worth saying Ive kept my dash to avoid any complications, however minor, fitting after market gauges (Speedo), also means its matched to the donor wheels and standard MX5 tyres which I will be using for IVA. It will be added to my demonstrator build blog on my website (- rather than the build guide) as that is where I tend to give more detail. Will have to wait until after Stoneleigh, though, before updating as all my time is being spent getting ready for that. Like you, I had considered using after-market instruments like the Smiths PROLED but, as one or two seem to have had a few wee problems with configuring it, I decided to save £350 - and as a manufacturer, I wanted to show what can be done with the original instrumentation to make them look a little more authentic.
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 18, 2018 18:37:03 GMT
Here you go, Gary. Having got the dash back from having it wrapped in textured leather-effect vinyl (have to say they did a cracking job,) I glues a piece of clear polycarbonate to the back of it and then mounted the cluster. Finished it off by fitting the polished alloy rings to the front. I think it gives a pretty good overall effect of the instruments being separate.
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Post by R2S on Apr 18, 2018 20:56:49 GMT
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 20, 2018 21:30:08 GMT
Dash is now installed. Note that being a MK2 dash, the digital odometer and reset button are obscured by the steering column cowling (whereas MK1 clocks have an analogue tumbler type odometer incorporated within the speedo itself) All warning lights, however, are fully visible.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2018 16:47:06 GMT
You might have to rework that dash, I am pretty sure the odometer has to be visible. This has been an issue with digital dashes where they do not display the mileage when powered on, they do not need to show it all the time but must at power-up. Had a quick scan of the IVA guide and didn't find a reference to it so I might be making this up or it might be in one of the updates that the test center have. In any case it is just another IVA heads up.
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 21, 2018 17:10:33 GMT
You might have to rework that dash, I am pretty sure the odometer has to be visible. This has been an issue with digital dashes where they do not display the mileage when powered on, they do not need to show it all the time but must at power-up. Had a quick scan of the IVA guide and didn't find a reference to it so I might be making this up or it might be in one of the updates that the test center have. In any case it is just another IVA heads up. Like you, I couldn't find any direct reference in the IVA manual (so am hoping it will be ok.) The cluster cannot go any higher in the dash binnacle and the steering column no lower as otherwise the wheel would be interfering with my knees. I know it doesn't necessarily follow that what is ok at MOT is ok for IVA, but I did enquire with the MOT station across the road and they stated that not being able to read the odometer doesn't mean an MOT failure. They simply state mileage as N/A. I do have a spare column shroud from which I have removed the rectangular top cover and chopped out the back edge so that if needs be, when fitted, exposes the otherwise hidden display. Ain't pretty, but being behind the wheel means that it would be in the exempt zone for radiussed edges etc.
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Post by R2S on Apr 21, 2018 17:29:36 GMT
Both
Id been thinking about this since seeing the photos Andy posted, is it not possible to cut the binnacle twice and angle the top down in the middle, fix in place with some thin ali bar then cover with vinyl; thereby exposing the odo (Hope this makes sense)?
Alternatively is there any way the reading can be duplicated via the diagnostic plug?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2018 8:30:50 GMT
Depends on the MX5 version if you have a OBD socket. I am using three different MX5 looms on different cars and only my mk2.5 has the OBD port. Don't know if it gives mileage but I would guess at no. I could check if needed as I have a code reader.
It is an odd one with the odometer needing to be visible, it has been discussed many times on-line with people discussing it being visible at power on only. I tend to treat the IVA as a test run, first time pass would be nice but you can go back for £90 and they only test the fail points, just like the MOT. You also have the different testers at different test centers, some points are down to their discretion, and I suspect a good clean build will get away with the odd thing where a rough build can expect to get the works.
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Post by R2S on May 11, 2018 21:19:02 GMT
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Post by ancsportscars on May 12, 2018 7:32:31 GMT
I have a set of these www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=trs%20seat%20belt in black on the demonstrator. They are designed for 'Sevens' and so the shoulder straps are shorter which means they only have a couple of inches of adjustment per strap when fitted to Replicar. Does mean that there aren't excess lengths of loose strap blowing about when driving. Having met you at Stoneleigh, Gary I'd say they'd be fine for you. However, if the seat needs moving further forward for a shorter person or a large driver intends using it, then they may not give enough adjustment. They're IVA compliant and a good price, though.
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Post by tojeiro on May 12, 2018 12:07:54 GMT
Similar dilemma, been looking at a few options. Would like 3” straps but don’t fancy paying 3x the price for a weekend road car.
I will have fixed seat position so strap lengths wouldn’t be an issue so probably go for the ones Andy recommended.
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Post by ancsportscars on May 12, 2018 12:17:54 GMT
Similar dilemma, been looking at a few options. Would like 3” straps but don’t fancy paying 3x the price for a weekend road car. I will have fixed seat position so strap lengths wouldn’t be an issue so probably go for the ones Andy recommended. I think westie66 has a set in his too.
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