Perfect Texas weather today for working on a Rocket. (It would be better DRIVING a Rocket, but I am not quite there yet!)
Could not find someone to bead the water pipes that run from front to back, so based on some examples from the net, made this little tool up. tapping the shaft of the bolt with a hammer and punch and turning the pipe results in a fairly good bead.
Next was the Idler Pulley - as this engine does not have the AC/Power Steering, need to have an idler pulley so the belt turns the correct way to drive the water pump in the right direction.
As I was cleaning up the engine, the belt tensioner did not seem like it was working correctly, so I picked up a new one with ribbed pulley from the local parts store for 35USD.
So after looking at some of the alternatives out there, got a piece of 1/4" (6mm) plate from my nearest home improvement store and with a bit of work with a jigsaw, cut this out, and used the old tensioner pulley mounted to it.
This is what it looks like from the rear -
Picked up a Ford Focus 2003 Wiring Diagram manual as well, as some of the engine harness wiring was cut off, and was I found on the net was not that clear. In case you ever wondered what was in the engine harness...
With the wiring manual in hand, most of these now make sense.....
That unknown bloke with the unfinished car still keeps hooning up and down the road
“Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body. But rather, to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming .... WOW what a ride.”
Wow, I have been out of the country for three weeks, followed by two weeks of catchup!
Earlier this week took the Valve Cover for powdercoating, could not match the Pirate Red exactly, so went with a bright silver, and sent my headers off for ceramic coating. Such a small job, but it goes in their queue and they get to it in 10 days or so.
Back into it over the weekend! - have to catch up and read all the threads to learn some new things.
By putting a straight edge across the front bulkhead - measured to the back edge of the top ball joint - and then use washers on the top wishbones to maintain the offset - only one washer difference from one side to the other! Does that sound about right?
Rather than cutting and welding the fender uprights, I made a small offset plate to bolt the original fender bracket to.
Here is another view of the fender placement. Not bolted down or glued/glassed in yet. Have to make sure I can get the wheels off!
It is starting to look like a car now!.
Along with the Spaghetti wiring seen on the drivers side floor in the photo above, I am getting ready to start the engine wiring loom. A bit tedious, but not difficult.
Ready to start an engine wiring loom - the module in the middle is the OBDI connector (mid left) and the fuel pump controller.
While Dr Brian was fooling around with his video, shown elsewhere on the Rocket forum , I was diligently working on the tunnel. Like many people, I removed the flanges and went with concealed mounting tabs on the inside of the tunnel. there was a LOT of measuring - first measured and drilled the aluminium angles, bolted them down to measure and drill the tunnel, removed everything (after numbering them) as each is slightly different. then installed the rivnuts on the angle pieces (a PITA), then riveted the angles to the floor from the bottom (nice clean underside)
Dr Brian encouraged me to polish and round off the angle - it does look nice - Installed the rivnuts with the angle stock in a vice so they were straight. Used some silicone sealant so nothing rattles.
With that done, made sure the holes still lined up
The height mismatch is because I don't have the edging on all sides yet.
I have some very nice stainless steel hex head bolts to hold the tunnel in place, and the small pieces of edging will be replaced with all the way around edging. Starting to look like a real car. While I was working on this - Dr Brian was working on his ECU Wiring breakout board - and taking videos....
Last Edit: Apr 27, 2014 16:44:08 GMT by dgibson: Updated URLs of pictures - I moved them on Photobucket
Cleaned up my Valve cover - something called Aircraft remover - available at just about any US Autoparts store. took a few passes and lots of water to clean it off. It came up fairly well, and then had it powdercoated locally with a Bengal Silver. I suspect with care, I could have used a rattlecan of high temp paint, and save myself a few dollars.
got a new valve gasket kit, including all those little rubber grommets for the bolts. I will take it all apart again to give things one last check, but the engine is coming together nicely.
The idler pulley to replace the powersteering is home made, but using the design seen on the forum in other places.
Need to make sure all the pulleys are well aligned with judicious use of washers. Extending most of the sensor harness wires, and keeping everything labeled. Figuring out the Ford Focus 2003 wiring manual takes a little bit of time. it is coming together nicely.
Don't know - but VIN number of my donor has a "5" which is found in less than .1% of the Ford Focus (Foci?) in North America. translating the VIN number, it gives me a model "Focus ZX3 SVT" - world region of Mexico - I presume this is where it was assembled?
Dove Racing found the Donor for me, and I know Pete was quite excited when he found it.
Working my way through the engine sensor wiring - double checking what each connector does, and checking continuity on pins and color coding with the wiring manual.
A lot of the harness plastic sheathing has crumbled due to age and heat (it is a 2003 donor) so stripping it back and replacing it with thermal heat sleeving. Had to redo a couple of lengths as figuring out the routing from the sensors took a while.
I am going to leave most of the injector harness wiring in place inside the plastic rail that sits on top of the injectors, and am extending and labeling the wires.
While working my way through the ECU Plug, I have marked each wire with it's pin number and what it is. Petik provides a nice 104 pin ECU diagram (annotated) and my wiring manual is also very useful. (in fact, Dr Brian and I agree you really need a wiring manual)
one very strange thing is that inside the ECU plug I am missing Pin 63 (Fuel Rail Pressure Sender sensor wire) there is no wire, and I gently pried apart the connector and there is not even a pin barrel there!
Does anyone have any idea on why this might be the case - and what pin accepts this sensor?
Just got back from a week away for work. Wrapped up the Injector and Sensor Harness
After wrapping, pinned out using a multi-meter each of the connectors pin by pin
Dr Brian swung by and double checked my work - very useful as we spotted an issue. I had swapped the Cam Sensor and the Head Temp sensor labels. !! Fixed that - so just about ready to install the engine.
All set to install the engine - and did some reading to find out I need to have the mounting holes for the engine cover drilled in first. After looking at some other build mounts, decided to use a small flange with a 1/4" (6mm) offset and then cut down as needed the engine cover to sit flat on the flange.
this is how the cover looks just sitting in place.
The firewall side (left side of photo) is using a lavamat - heat reflective material from one of my favorite on line auto sites. Once the engine is in, I simply have to bolt the cover to these flanges.
Dropped in the engine last weekend with the help of Dr Brian. took a couple of hours in front of the garage, as the engine hoist was too tall to fit under the roller door. Needless to say we got sunburned at 32C and about 100% humidity!
Fitting the SVT with the six speed and the roll bar in place was a bit of a job. in the end took off the right side engine mount and then re-installed it as we lowered it below the roll bar brace.
Did some reading and decided to level up the engine. looking at the level, either the left hand side had to come up quite a bit, or drop the right side by 6mm (1/4") and raise the left side. This was my solution as spacer bar drilled to meet the centers of the mounting bolts, and used longer bolts.
Next was to raise the left (gearbox) side by 12mm (1/2") the rubber mount is not all bolted down, but the engine is level now.
Does this look right - I have not tightened down the wheel nut yet, which will pull it in.
so on the gearbox side I have a bit of space, and as we can see the bearing is a bit off the mount. does this look right?
Drivers Side Driveshaft installed with a little tap of a deadblow hammer to push the retaining ring into place.