While thinking about other parts of the build, tackled something easy - will probably want to take them off when installing the motor, but for now, a small sense of accomplishment.
Enough procrastination - on to the front bulkhead. Due to some unfortunate cuts in the wrong place, I have this in two pieces - split where the accelerator pedal mount is made (remember LHD) Still have some fiddling around to do - the steering shaft seems to be too close to the clutch pedal. This plate was the one I made the wrong cuts on, so decided to model it directly and then use this as the pattern.
Picked up some edge trim from McMaster Carr (p/n 24175K12 - 1/16" inside width, 19/64 inside height) fits very nicely and conforms to fairly tight curves.
Thanks, Hightower, and yes, there will always be alterations.... I might have to put my steering rack a bit higher so the steering arms are parallel to the wishbones. Still, it is easy enough to cut out a bit more, but my putting back machine is broken.
Hand Brake and Gearshift RivNuts in place and nicely clearing the water pipes which I have mounted on the dual pipe brackets.
One thing I would comment on is using rivnuts for the handbrake and gearshift assembly.
I would suggest using a bolt as I would imagine that the force you are putting through every time you lift up the handbrake could eventually cause the rivnuts to weaken, especially if you are going to use the metal wheels to route the cable through.
I may be wrong but that's my opinion from the rivnuts I've used before!
Yeah, i use the same radiator. I do recommend moving it up as much as possible. With this radiator, i found that moving the top forward until it almost touches the chassis tubing on the sides is best. Then you'll need to fab up new brackets for the bottom - forget using the stock position - it really doesn't work well for the honda rad - it's too close and if you develop a leak or even for draining the rad you can easily end up with coolant in the center channel.
the rubber mounts for the honda rad are a pain to find and make work. i ended up making my own in a very simple, albeit a little rough way:
-make a metal support for the stud on each side at the bottom. drill the hole for the stud 20-30% larger -temporarily put a shim in between the bracket and the radiator to hold it may 1/4" away, studs centered -buy some silkaflex or 3m windo-weld and just pump a bunch in the area between the stud and bracket -let set for 24-48hrs -pieces will likely separate easily (if you used smooth material) and you'll end up with a poly-mount that fits perfectly
Lastly, I would chuck that radiator fan...I had horrible experience with it and ended up spending a good amount of money on a "real" one
one other thing, the stock 1.1 radiator cap will blow over on a zetec and i think the svt motor runs pretty much the same coolant setup. you can buy a 1.6 or a 1.8 that's meant for honda off-road vehicles (bikes, atvs, etc) and that will hold just fine.
only low 40's (6C) today in Sugarland, so spent most of the time inside working out my stalks. I know I can use the window washer button for the horn, and I suspect with some creative use of the other positions of the wiper stalk and some good diodes I can do all the lighting. For now, just ohming everything out with the switches in different positions to see what is connected to what, and putting little paper tags on each wire. With that and Mark H's excellent wiring diagram, should be able to make something spark.
The 2003 SVT Donor was built in Mexico, and some of the wire colors are different from the diagrams I have, and in a couple of cases pins are not used that show them in the manual with wires.
Once it warmed up outside, took Pete's (Petik) advice and moved the radiator 2" (50mm) or so forward, so I have some clearance for the lower radiator hose.
And of course moving the base forward, means I had to modify the upper mount. Not wanting to drill more holes in the hood mount, I redid the bracket so it fitted the existing mounting holes drilled previously.
Can someone tell me which is the inlet and which is the outlet, and which way the fluid flow is in the long tubes down the tunnel? Thanks
I was in Sugarland earlier this year and that is the last temperature I would have expected there. That's bloody cold for your part of the world! I got back to my hire-car at 7pm one day to find the ambient temp gauge showing 107°F.
Warm water rises, so seeing you are cooling the water you want to connect the hose from the engine to the top connection so that it doesn't resist the flow. I cant tell you yet which hard-pipe to connect to which but if you have an option I'd suggest putting the hottest further away from the driving side just for your comfort.
Thanks Barney, that is good advice. I have also been looking at wrapping at least one side of the radiator pipes, the hot side coming from the engine. Or perhaps both. Kiwicanfly did something more elaborate with a inside tunnel filled with some fiberglass matting.
The passenger side pipe is the inlet to the engine and of course the drivers side is the opposite(LHD). Pete and i buy some thermal blanketing material and glue it to the inside of the tunnels (all sides and the top) This seams to work well. LOOKS GOOD>