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Post by petik on Nov 11, 2013 3:01:44 GMT
wow, those are massive rotors. what are they from? mine are just under 10" (247mm) from a Cortina i think.
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Post by dgibson on Nov 11, 2013 13:49:03 GMT
These are on the Dove Racing LLC site under Optional extras, Drilled and grooved disc brakes. I got the Wilwood 4 pot calipers as well, so it seemed to make sense to get a 'matched set'. From some of the technical forum talk, it seems the right pads will be critical, as well as the balance bar adjustment, so the whole set up thing will be an entire journey itself.
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Post by petik on Nov 11, 2013 17:04:13 GMT
Nice, I'll have to ping Pete to get more info. I've the 4 pot Wilwoods myself, just not those rotors. I wonder if they'd even fit under my 15" wheels Balance bar adjustment is tricky indeed. I'm setting up an appointment at Harris Hill to get some help tweaking that in a controlled environment.
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Post by dgibson on Nov 16, 2013 23:45:27 GMT
While thinking about other parts of the build, tackled something easy - will probably want to take them off when installing the motor, but for now, a small sense of accomplishment. Enough procrastination - on to the front bulkhead. Due to some unfortunate cuts in the wrong place, I have this in two pieces - split where the accelerator pedal mount is made (remember LHD) Still have some fiddling around to do - the steering shaft seems to be too close to the clutch pedal. This plate was the one I made the wrong cuts on, so decided to model it directly and then use this as the pattern. Picked up some edge trim from McMaster Carr (p/n 24175K12 - 1/16" inside width, 19/64 inside height) fits very nicely and conforms to fairly tight curves.
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Post by dgibson on Nov 18, 2013 0:45:48 GMT
Spent the day sculpting the front panels - left and right - looked at other builds, measured at least twice, and must have put them in place and taken them out for small adjustments 20-30 times.... They will be covered with the Carbon Fiber wrap but will hold off installing them until the radiator and steering column is installed. DrBrian swung by yesterday and helped me out on a few things, and had a good chat with Pete Dove at Dove Racing today as well.
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Post by hightower on Nov 18, 2013 7:09:39 GMT
Looking good and good progress I'm the same with my panels don't want to install them till other things are in place In case of any alterations.
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Post by dgibson on Nov 18, 2013 20:57:46 GMT
Thanks, Hightower, and yes, there will always be alterations.... I might have to put my steering rack a bit higher so the steering arms are parallel to the wishbones. Still, it is easy enough to cut out a bit more, but my putting back machine is broken. Hand Brake and Gearshift RivNuts in place and nicely clearing the water pipes which I have mounted on the dual pipe brackets. Now on to the brake lines.
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Post by ncohen on Nov 18, 2013 23:42:36 GMT
Looking good mate!
One thing I would comment on is using rivnuts for the handbrake and gearshift assembly.
I would suggest using a bolt as I would imagine that the force you are putting through every time you lift up the handbrake could eventually cause the rivnuts to weaken, especially if you are going to use the metal wheels to route the cable through.
I may be wrong but that's my opinion from the rivnuts I've used before!
Good luck
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Post by dgibson on Nov 24, 2013 0:53:46 GMT
Picked up a Honda Civic Del Sol performance radiator from Godspeed on Amazon of all places. Godspeed 1992 to 1995 Honda Civic Eg Ek B16 B18 D15 D16 Vtec Dohc Eg Ek Aluminum Radiator /Turbo/na 52mm 3 Row/ 3 Core Mt Only +12" Fan We will see how it goes - 3 Core Radiator in the Texas summer must be a good thing. During a rather chilly Saturday morning (47F or 8C), played around with various mounting options and came up with this. The bottom outlet (or is it inlet) pipe seems a little close to the bulkhead, so we may have to move the whole thing forward a bit. I still need to find some of the rubber radiator mounts. Before the powder coat, Pete Dove recommended the small flat bar just behind the nose to enable a hood or bonnet latch later. So I decided to use this bar to tie the top radiator mount. Comments and suggestions on this radiator configuration are welcome.
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Post by petik on Nov 24, 2013 2:28:45 GMT
Yeah, i use the same radiator. I do recommend moving it up as much as possible. With this radiator, i found that moving the top forward until it almost touches the chassis tubing on the sides is best. Then you'll need to fab up new brackets for the bottom - forget using the stock position - it really doesn't work well for the honda rad - it's too close and if you develop a leak or even for draining the rad you can easily end up with coolant in the center channel. the rubber mounts for the honda rad are a pain to find and make work. i ended up making my own in a very simple, albeit a little rough way: -make a metal support for the stud on each side at the bottom. drill the hole for the stud 20-30% larger -temporarily put a shim in between the bracket and the radiator to hold it may 1/4" away, studs centered -buy some silkaflex or 3m windo-weld and just pump a bunch in the area between the stud and bracket -let set for 24-48hrs -pieces will likely separate easily (if you used smooth material) and you'll end up with a poly-mount that fits perfectly Lastly, I would chuck that radiator fan...I had horrible experience with it and ended up spending a good amount of money on a "real" one
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Post by petik on Nov 24, 2013 2:31:24 GMT
one other thing, the stock 1.1 radiator cap will blow over on a zetec and i think the svt motor runs pretty much the same coolant setup. you can buy a 1.6 or a 1.8 that's meant for honda off-road vehicles (bikes, atvs, etc) and that will hold just fine.
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Post by dgibson on Nov 27, 2013 23:42:58 GMT
only low 40's (6C) today in Sugarland, so spent most of the time inside working out my stalks. I know I can use the window washer button for the horn, and I suspect with some creative use of the other positions of the wiper stalk and some good diodes I can do all the lighting. For now, just ohming everything out with the switches in different positions to see what is connected to what, and putting little paper tags on each wire. With that and Mark H's excellent wiring diagram, should be able to make something spark. The 2003 SVT Donor was built in Mexico, and some of the wire colors are different from the diagrams I have, and in a couple of cases pins are not used that show them in the manual with wires. Once it warmed up outside, took Pete's (Petik) advice and moved the radiator 2" (50mm) or so forward, so I have some clearance for the lower radiator hose. And of course moving the base forward, means I had to modify the upper mount. Not wanting to drill more holes in the hood mount, I redid the bracket so it fitted the existing mounting holes drilled previously. Can someone tell me which is the inlet and which is the outlet, and which way the fluid flow is in the long tubes down the tunnel? Thanks
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Post by Barney on Nov 28, 2013 17:51:55 GMT
I was in Sugarland earlier this year and that is the last temperature I would have expected there. That's bloody cold for your part of the world! I got back to my hire-car at 7pm one day to find the ambient temp gauge showing 107°F.
Warm water rises, so seeing you are cooling the water you want to connect the hose from the engine to the top connection so that it doesn't resist the flow. I cant tell you yet which hard-pipe to connect to which but if you have an option I'd suggest putting the hottest further away from the driving side just for your comfort.
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Post by dgibson on Nov 30, 2013 17:38:37 GMT
Thanks Barney, that is good advice. I have also been looking at wrapping at least one side of the radiator pipes, the hot side coming from the engine. Or perhaps both. Kiwicanfly did something more elaborate with a inside tunnel filled with some fiberglass matting.
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hd2000
Newbie
doveracing.net USA DISTRUBTOR of MEV KITS
Posts: 10
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Post by hd2000 on Dec 5, 2013 2:01:24 GMT
The passenger side pipe is the inlet to the engine and of course the drivers side is the opposite(LHD). Pete and i buy some thermal blanketing material and glue it to the inside of the tunnels (all sides and the top) This seams to work well. LOOKS GOOD>
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