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Post by erik on Jan 16, 2014 22:16:26 GMT
Good thinking about the shock covers! I like to add one tot the rear shock. an other item on my wishlist!
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Post by erik on Jan 21, 2014 22:00:38 GMT
slow progress now. The brake reservoir came in today. I found a good location for it and can make the fixing piont later when the dash is removed. The trottle pedal has been extended by 20mm. Just a few mm below the bonnet for free movement. The front panel+screen needs to be removed now to be able to continue the build. Nav bracket mounted to the windscreen bracket. Looks pretty neat. Pics later when I got me new camera batteries.
Anyone have good advice how to trim down a PC windscreen? Axle grinder shows heat and may go for handsaw (metal blade) but is labour intensive. Neeed to order a new windscreen but like to try on the old one first.
br, Erik
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 21, 2014 23:49:41 GMT
Erik I trimmed my windshield with a dremel tool. I am not sure if you can get one with that brand name, but they are a very small high speed (revving) multi rotary tool. I bought a tube of cutting disks and actually sandwiched two together and cut and shaped my windscreen with that. It took about 20 minutes. Be warned the plexi actually cuts and melts at the same time. After I finished the rough outline I used a medium - coarse 10" flat file to smooth the edges and then sandpaper to finish the job. It isn't a bad way to cut the PC. If you decide to use a metal saw blade, you run a risk of cracking the plastic. The dremel makes short work of things.
Post more pictures when you get the batteries...
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Jan 23, 2014 19:31:47 GMT
Hi Roger, PC is used in helmets , glasses etc for being dent resistant so I guess cracks isn't very likely to happen. With fine tooth saw (3+ teeth in relation to material thickness) will give smooth sawing movement. Had to order a new sceen because the previous owner polished it with scotch brite or similar. I'll cut this one for testing purposes first. new batts are in;) not much done and will be busy for the rest of the week. found a good spot for the pod. bracket will be welded later. tacked 2 pair coupling nuts both sides of the windscreen bracket for the nav mount. Good thing is there isn't anything to add on my wishlist for a week and I'll disassemble te front side soon to tweak the pedal leverage.
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 24, 2014 0:21:16 GMT
Erik
At the end of the day it is your call on how to cut and trim. I do know the windscreen will crack if stressed enough, so if you are comfortable using a fine tooth hack saw then it should do the task if you are careful. The Dremel in my case worked great.
I am not sure what I am looking at in regards to your dash layout. Are you considering placing your brake reservoir behind the steering wheel or is it a permanent fixture there? Also, I checked out the RAM mount to the right of the gauge cluster? Not sure but is that for your MP-3 player? I have been watching your progress and was wondering how you are going to do the gauge enclosure. You have not mentioned that part yet. What I did with mine was to order an older gauge set and enclosure from Scott. The larger (2008) that I had was problematic getting it to fit correctly. I never managed to get the clean appearance I was looking for, so everyday I check to see what you are doing with your gauge and dash components. With the scooter switches mounted on the left stock, the brake reservoir, gauges and mounts on the dash, there is a lot going on there. Curiosity has me wondering how you will blend it all together. Your TR1KE is perfect, you did a great lay out there, so I imagine you will follow suit on the Eco-Exo Project. I still want to use my 2008 gauges, so I am following what you do quite closely. I actually considered spray expandable foam to make the enclosure for the 2008 gauges, but I am just not that handy in that regard. Anyway, can't wait to see the finished product.
Best regards
Roger
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Post by erik on Jan 25, 2014 9:22:51 GMT
Hi Roger, The gauge enclosure cover was heavely scratched, broken tabs and discolored by sunlight. I had to discart it. This cover did look very 80's style and I don't like it at all. I am having Ducati bikes for 2 decades and the dashes are minimal (a foam liner around the gauges) and kinda like basic concepts alot. This an400 dash without cover looks much better on the Exo and I attached it to the top chasis tube as close tot he column cover as possible to give good placement of the windschield bracket reinforcements on the steering column L-strips. It couldn't be positioned much more forward without cutting away big areas on the GRP bonnet. If you observed these bracketry you'll understand the route I took. On the bikes the brake reservoirs are in plain sight for observation and easy refill and I'm coping this because it is not possible to remove the bonnet without removing the windschield brackets which takes a lot of effort to dissasemble the complete windschield construction, for brake fluid maintenance only. I recon placing the reservoir under the bonnet doesn't make sense in my build.all exess tabs will be removed later. Removing unneeded covers is part of simplicity the Exo has been designed for. Going back to basics and simplicity is what I like on both projects, tough it doesn't show in first sight the effort it takes to make it look minimal. Having birthday party this weekend over here. Work to do in the kitchen
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 25, 2014 13:41:38 GMT
Erik
I did a quick look at the Ducati line of motorcycles, not so much the gauges but rather the entire bike. The Ducati Monster has the fwd Exo style frame which emulates the Eco-Exo design. There are also a couple of radical designed concept bikes that are in the "Street Fighter" class. Both of these (and a few other models) were minimal in their design touches and capitalized on the function and form of the basic equipment rather than cover it up. Ducati also makes a some very grand designed cruisers and tour bikes that are world class. I have always said to "each their own" and you ultimately have to please yourself. While I may not understand your direction or your motivation, I respect your decision to build your project to your own grand design and I look forward to your updates.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Jan 28, 2014 17:21:59 GMT
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 29, 2014 2:18:22 GMT
Erik
I personally rode Honda Goldwings for about 20+ years and still have 2 early models, a 76 and 77 GL1000. Fantastic bikes and different than Ducati. I enjoy the performance, handling and engineering especially with the emphasis Honda placed on the fit and finish during manufacture. I prefer a bike that is clean, uncluttered and neat. This theme carries over to every motorcycle I have owned, and/or built, including the Eco-Exo.
To be honest I do not see a lot of the Ducati styling in your Eco-Exo build, but then It is not yet finished. Your TR1KE on the other hand, shows a close eye to detail and thought. You have demonstrated your abilities to do a fantastic job on what you undertake. I wish you well in your efforts building the Eco-Exo.
The bike pictures were great.
Roger Worcester Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Feb 1, 2014 20:22:00 GMT
Pre assembled the left side to see what bushes need to be made on a lathe. Turns out that top ball linkage bushes need to be shortened to size after coating.I think I'll get the parts exept chasis coated first and have the bushed made after this. What suprised me is the bottom ball link should be able to be mounted under the wishbone plate to lift the front chasis. i am wondering if this would cancell out the need for custom made shocks (if needed) Luckely I was able to get bolt lenghts with correct threadless lenght below the heads for the polybushes and shock linkage. Need to cut then to correct lenght and go from there. Forgot to get me one for the throttle pedal which rotates on m12 thread now. Can you show me a pic of the tacho sensor bracket you made? I totally forgot how it is fixed on the original forks. thx in advance, Erik
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Post by roger32849 on Feb 2, 2014 2:01:50 GMT
Erik
I see you are making progress. The pictures are always a good reference for future work. I realize you are quite busy with your other obligations in life and can only dedicate so much time for endeavors such as your build. As for me, I retired a couple of years ago and have more time for my hobbies than ever before. You asked a question about the tacho bracket in your last post.... To whom were you directing the question? As far as I know there is no bracket for the speedometer sensor that is mounts on the front fork. The tachometer is electronic and operates without the need for any bracket.
Best regards
Roger
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Post by edvb on Feb 2, 2014 6:23:44 GMT
Roger
I think he meant the speedometer sensor on the front wheel. To prevent it from turning I am making a stainless steel bracket the thickness of the washer I am using now and will bend some tabs that will fit around the fork fitting and bend a couple more 180 degrees to prevent the speedometer sensor from turning. Might as well kill two birds with one stone.
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Post by edvb on Feb 2, 2014 6:25:03 GMT
Erik
What is that round disk welded to the fork for?
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Post by erik on Feb 2, 2014 9:01:19 GMT
Hi Edward, Yes I meant a bracket to prevent the sensor from turning. I reread the manual and at page 14 a pic of the bracket is shown if one looks more intense . Because my fork are plain steel I can weld a tab. Just wanted to know what options are possible. A reflector will be placed on the disc. A requirement for leglisation. Scott made brackets on his wheel fenders but I like this approach. Just minor tweaks . Progress is slow for me now. Had a headache for a few days, daytime job and it took me a while to find simple solution for the throttle pedal end stop and pedal throw. I was in doubt to start the loom to find more suitable hardware positions to weld or start the front wheel assy. Becaus several spacers need to be trimmed after coating the forks I guess coating these in short time notice and have the spacers made to fit is the way to go. Making thoughts about routing the brake lines took quite a moment too. Yeah, famely is #1 but building pace is good. Having a tR1ke ready for testing makes me progress in a easy pace now. br, Erik
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Post by erik on Feb 3, 2014 22:04:35 GMT
Need to have the left caliper bracket reworked. The caliper is not in line with the disc just like Roger's issue. I don't have the correct tools to do this and need to outsource this. As earlier stated, I'm not open to grind this plate taper.
The wishbone,forks,shock brackets and bushings need quite a bit more rework as my tR1ke was in need for. I would have expected this more like a no brainer. It will come out right eventually but this takes more time as intended.
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