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Post by erik on Feb 13, 2014 22:30:36 GMT
Hi Edward, Thanks for tthe reply. After giving the sidestand,sadle and brake switches some thought I decided it isn't mandatory to remove the connectors out of the loom. The easiest route is to bypass the connectors when the loom will be tested and see how it turns out. If this shows difficulties I'll place the switches in the chasis and block the buttons in pressed mode. This evening I finished the routing of the rear part of the loom (engine area) and had to cut the loom next to the shock to be able to mount the hardware on the front part of the loom. I found a easy route behind the dash and can make a few brackets now. After these are welded I can measure up the lenght to be extended and move several connectors to the rear loom. When this is completed I'll connect the An400 lights to this loom and may go for a test sequence. After this I guess the hardest part is done. I'll not do extensive surgery in the loom. Bypassing/extending is much easier and close to a no brainer. Moving connectors is easy when the cut wiring is labled (just in case ) I do intend to tinn the wire connections in the original loom to make it weather proof. The original connections seem to be more sensitive for corrosion. not much to show on pics now. just a serious spachetti incident LOL!!
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Post by edvb on Feb 14, 2014 0:47:32 GMT
Erik
All the wires are color coded to where the go and what they do. It takes a bit to get used to it but then it becomes second nature. But my diagram bypasses all the unneeded parts making it much more reliable as they are no longer in the circuit. PM me if you need a detailed diagram for your build.
I went through this on my build and I know after doing this, the best route is to weld tabs for every part you need to mount and position them so they all will fit the best way possible. Then extend the wires in the loom to fit those locations. Roger and I both bought a second loom for the correct color coded wires to extend the wires to the new locations of the parts mounted on the tabs. We both soldered the extension wiring and heat shrunk the connections. Then a wrap of silicone tape over the loom pretty much makes everything water tight.
Edward
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Post by roger32849 on Feb 27, 2014 1:43:07 GMT
Erik: it seems no one is entering anything on the forum. I am writing to see if you are well and what you are doing on your Eco-Exo-R. Right now, I am finishing up with a couple of tweaks I made to my suspension and an adjustment I made to the angle of my seat. Not much opportunity to ride because of the snow, but I did manage to get out and test the new shocks. It was unfortunately a dismal failure. I went back to the original equipment and did the alignment back to specs.
I will be making a pair of new tie rod end adapters and securing them in place utilizing most of the threaded surface available on the tie rods. The stereo is fitted and sounds respectable while riding . It will never be like a concert especially with wind noise and a helmet on. At lower speeds in town, it is pretty decent though.
Take care and let us know how you are doing..
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Feb 27, 2014 20:08:41 GMT
Hi Roger, It feels like a month since i posted here but reality is I have been working on the loom every evening this week and last weekend for about 12 hrs. Cyrrent status is the front main loom soldering part is is about finished and the wiring extensions in the middle have been completed. Right now I am t-wrapping and spiral wrapping the extensions to the rear (key switch, starter relais, regulator etc) to make a tight bundle before starting on the rear soldering joints. After this has been completed I guess the chasis is close for dissasembly, final welding (and additional loom brackets) and start with bottom sheeting. the A-arms+forks have been resend to the coater. the zink coating seems to release trapped gasses which affects the additional clearcoat with many pinholes. I wasn't informed zink+powder+clear coat isn't possible but only zink+powder is. Hope to pick it up saturday. great to see you're makning good progress too. I may reconsider a radio later too but it will be installed in the tank cover (speakers too) but this can be ditted afterwards easely. The only downside is i need to stop the exo to change tunes No reason to make pics of the pachetti indicent right now. br, Erik
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Post by roger32849 on Mar 1, 2014 11:47:48 GMT
Erik: Of all the things needed to complete the build, the wiring harness is probably the most exacting. It is worth taking the extra time that you are putting into it to avoid issues later. When you complete your project it will not fail. I will bear in mind the issues with zinc primer and clear coat. I didn't realize it off gassed to the extent that it would cause bubbles in the paint. I used zinc chromate primer to coat military aircraft internal components. I never used a top coat over it though.
The stereo system is all installed I will be using my ipod as the music source. There is just enough room to install a very small pair of speakers in each corner of the seating area just beneath the cross bar. The amp is mounted to the right side of the steering column and is connected to an off/on toggle switch mounted on the plastic turn signal cover.
I have been experimenting with the suspension. I have come to the conclusion that the length of the shock must be kept at or near the stock 13" to reduce steering issues. I installed a pair of 14-1/4" shocks but they just didn't work out. I reinstalled my originals and set the preload up and did the alignment. It drives great and no bump steer. The key is keeping the lower suspension arm and tie rod as level as possible. With the taller shocks, that wasn't possible without reingineering he entire suspension. My clearance in the front remains at 3-1/2" and I have no problems with the setup. I did however, make two longer adapters for the tie rod extensions. The external threaded stud and the length of internally threaded adapter have been lengthened to utilize more of the threaded area on the tie rods and steering knuckle. Once installed I will realign the suspension and hopefully the adapters will thread completely on using all or most of the threaded surface.
I also have been tweaking the angle of my seat. It was actually better where it was before I started, but I have the time to play around with it, so why not. My big push was to get it to pass the state inspection system, then do the minor tweaks for comfort after. I have to admit, the stereo was a complete spur of the moment thing, but glad I did it.
Keep in touch Erik, I am glad to hear you have been making good progress. Riding season is a month away (if winter decides to end) and I look forward to some run times in my trike. With the exception of a couple of adjustments it is ready to go.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Mar 2, 2014 17:28:45 GMT
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Post by edvb on Mar 2, 2014 17:46:23 GMT
Looks good Erik!
Another section completed and on to the next task.
Roger and I have been working on our front suspensions and Roger has his all dialed in. I am getting very close on mine with the modifications I made but it is all starting to gel together.
Do you have a few spare wires going back to the battery in case you want to add something later on?
I added two 12 gauge individually fused circuits from the battery forward to the instrument panel for my lights and horn. I also put my stereo on the signal circuit and still have one circuit left for a spare.
Just a thought before finishing it all up.
Edward
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Post by erik on Mar 2, 2014 19:55:58 GMT
Hi Edward, Yes, spiraling to the rear right now I haven't added more wiring to the loom as needed because I haven't made any spare brackets to mount something extra to the front. I didn't discart the 12V socket and I can use this for additional supply if needed. I plan to use this for nav tool but the wiring thickness is as thick as the front lights wire so I guess approx 100W would be enough for a small radio. However, if I'd add a radio it will be placed behind the driver and feed wiring extracted from the starter key unit.
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Post by edvb on Mar 3, 2014 0:44:46 GMT
Great! It sounds like you have everything coming together now.
Are you planning on the Stock 330 mm shocks you got with the kit or are you getting the longer 365 mm ones?
Edward
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Post by erik on Mar 3, 2014 5:39:52 GMT
I'll start with what I have and will pay a visit to hyperpro if needed
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Post by erik on Mar 24, 2014 21:26:17 GMT
Loom finished. Pre assembled the front wishbones for brake line routing.turned out I will make them on the final rebuild. Too bad the brackets turned out to be quite narrow and have to widen up several of them and trimm off the PU bushes flanges later to make it worth living. need to figure out if I need to add additional P-clips for the loom but I am in favour for t-wraps if possible. loom has 0,1A current leak. I assume this is 1,38W for the clock so I conclude the loom is 100% in perfect order. No need for additional solenoids. Thw 12V socked wiring is good enough for Navigator feed wire later. Fiat starter key is connected to the An400 engine stop switch for safety and anti theft. steering wheel horn is parrallel to the An400 switch. An400 front brake switch connected to the rear light pressure switch. getting closer for dissasembly and making the bottom plate and final welding. br, erik Left side of tank. regulator, key switch, indicator and shock adjuster still enough place for a radio if desired still lotsa empty space here. seatrails can't get less complicated as this. fuse box location. original fuse box bracket had to open up quite a few brackets here. Flanges of the Pu bushes need to be trimmed later... all visible engine wiring
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Post by edvb on Mar 28, 2014 1:06:02 GMT
Looks like you are moving right along Erik! Is that a new rear tire? Have you decided on what to do with a bulkhead for the cylinder head? The way you are going you might beat me to the first drive but I am getting close now.
Edward
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Post by erik on Mar 28, 2014 19:06:05 GMT
Hi Edward, yes new tires all around The Bulckhead is cancelled iin favour for cooling. The bottom plate will be shortened. Not sure if I will cover the seat or only the leg area in front of the seat. I disassembled the Exo within 2hrs exept for the engine. When this is removed the upper side can ve final welded and the bottom+floor plate after this. I guess the pace is good but not high speed. Good enough for me. Tomorrow I'll take the tR1ke to the bike mechanic to have the carbs inspected. Hope to enjoy her soon grtz, Erik
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Post by roger32849 on Apr 18, 2014 10:37:11 GMT
Erik
Your progress is great, and the trike is looking more and more like a completed project. I like the wire wrap you chose. It makes it look finished and clean. The routing path on the right side of the frame really works for you and it is obvious your layout beneath the bonnet is uncluttered and neat. I like the placement of the ECM and the fuse/relay box.
You mentioned in an earlier post you were not going to use a bulkhead. I have ridden over a hundred miles in mine with a complete enclosed bulkhead area. My engine temperature stays solidly normal. I really do not believe overheating will be an issue for you, and encourage you to at least try it both ways and post your results.
You, me, and Edward in Wisconsin are the only three builders that do any regular forum entries. I know other builders use our information as a guide for their Eco-Exo-R projects. I try to be as informative as I can, just as you and Edward are. My modification upgrade is nearly completed and that will end the work phase of my build. Next is just riding it and having fun. My forum entries will be becoming fewer and farther between.
Anyway, looking good Erik...
Roger
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Post by erik on Apr 18, 2014 23:04:40 GMT
Hi Roger, the bulkhead cannot be used because the airbox sticks through the bulckhead plate. It wouldn't be pretty as cosmetic cover up and it turned into an item not needed Too bad the pics don't show the clean buildup of the loom I made. very hard to make a decent pic of the loom.
You'd be suprised how little of use our threads are for future builders. My Tr1ke build has about 30 different approaches to standard building but only one new builder used my steering column relocation info for his project and he was very pleased with the result. My threads have been of great help raising the value of my projects and will be of great help when I might reconsider to sell one in future. It's my way to thank the posters who went before me but I don't feel they are of great value for future builders because they are poorly read hence the issues new builders are facing in the tR1ke threads. No use for s p o o n feeding them IMO. I reduced posting to forums quite a bit for this reason.
ciao!
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