Worcester Massachusetts Build

[Scott]

I'd be interested to know what that was but sure it wasn't a Eco-Exo,

The 2 bolt fixing is maintained, the main bolt is through a hardened bush and needle roller bearing bolted solid to the mount, and the second on the Burgman used a bolt thought a rubber doughnut into the chassis tube, but this is removed and again bolted solid to the mount, so not flexing can found there,,,,

Flexing has been mentioned before on the front from pictures, but when you look harder you can see this is the just a elusion and in fact it's the uprights pivoting as they should,,

Scott

[roger32849]

I read Scott's answer to the bushing question. I have not heard of anyone having any problem with performance or mechanical issuues that could be attributed to engineering or design. I personally would not want to stray to far off the design path, but here I am installing a 2008 engine in the kit. It is still a 400cc, but the engine design necessitates a LOT OF REFABRICATION AND BUILD ENGINEERING. In some ways the newer engine is a plus, in others, well... Let's say I have been sharpening my pencil and doing close tolerance component installations. I appreciate the engineering that went into the kit, perhaps Scott and crew will redesign some of the mounts to make it ready for the 2007 and newer machines with fuel injection.

As a note, I have the fuel tank mounted, the radiator is also in place and bolted down. There is plenty of room for the radiator hose connections to the engine. I found a place for the overflow and filler neck. All of this fits nicely beneath the rear cover. The throttle is connected and soon I will be starting on the electrics.

I appreciate everyone's comments.... If you are considering building one of these, order the kit, in the time after you make the order until you receive the kit, you will find your donor. I would sincerely recommend you look for a carbureted Burgman 400, you will not have everything you need, but the kit is designed for the earlier Scooters.. So no engineering. Or rework.

Roger

[roger32849]

Brake manifold and routing the lines

Roger

[roger32849]

Accelerator pedal and cable modification for Eco-Exo R

Roger

[humpy3004]

ive gotta congratulate you on a superb build.
are you expecting any need for a brake bias valve or do you think the front/back braking will be farely well balanced.

[roger32849]

How I installed the 2008 fuel tank to clear the throttle body and cam chain tensioner.

Roger

[roger32849]

Jul 11, 2013 9:27:18 GMT humpy3004 said:

ive gotta congratulate you on a superb build.
are you expecting any need for a brake bias valve or do you think the front/back braking will be farely well balanced.

Thank you very much for your comments. More videos to come. I cannot caculate the bias just yet, but If there is much bias between front and back braking, I will install a restrictor or proportioning valve to balance the braking between front and rear.

Roger
Worcester Massachusetts

[erik]

I don't think that's street legal. On the tR1ke and Rocket the balance bar in between the brake valves need to be blocked to prevent one will change the brake ratio. a proportioning valve is adjustable while driving.

[humpy3004]

Its not illegal to have it. It just needs to be lockable after its adjusted and not remain adjustable.

[shoshinru]

Hello Roger

I have been following this trike ever since Exomotive opened in the US. I am still interested in building. Just wanted to see if any were being built in the US and what type of problems owners are having registering them. I live in Connecticut. Any chance I could take a look at your project? My e mail is, [e-mail] Thanks

[roger32849]

Just a quick note.. I am examining the brake manifold I installed. It will be a permanent part of the build. As far as a balancing valve goes, it naturally will be installed only if needed, and it will be a "set and lock" type. Some are simply a static pressure reduction and are not adjustable. I really do not expect the brakes to be a huge issue, the balancing part will be trial and error.

I will be working on modifying my wiring harness today. I think what I need to do is connect what I can first and then find mounting spots for the electronics and run the harness to them and modifying as I go along. It doesn't matter where I mount some electronics, but items like the ICU and Rectifier have to be where they will be protected or function optimally. As I go along, I will do more photos and post them.

Roger

[erik]

Modifying a harnass appeared not very hard to do. It took me a considerable amount of time (200hrs) on my Tr1ke to make it as desired. If you can manage to find a good place for your connectors and electronics it's basically only extending wires from there. Once you found a dry location you can extend your sensors leads to there (at first I reconsidered to keep the sensor leads original but the connectors will get dirty when unprotected=errors)

Just find a decent way to finish the loom. There are several options worth reconsidering.

Looking forward to your brake setup

grtz!
Erik

[roger32849]

I started marking locations for my electronics. I made some right angle hangers and riveted them in place. Next I will cut and splice the harness where needed. I am hopeful of a good outcome. I am a firm believer in using marking tape.

Today I ordered a 3/8 X 24 banjo bolt and 3/8 X AN-3 fitting as well as a 10mm X AN-3 banjo fitting, I will run length of stainless steel tubing with AN-3 female fittings and appropriate sized banjo fittings between the master cylinder and brake manifold.

I found a nice brake reservoir on eBay. It is 100 ml or 3.3 US ounces. It has a right angle supply line and is anodized black with a clear window for checking levels. That's it for today.

Roger
Worcester Massachusetts

[roger32849]

[roger32849]

I have been gone from the boards for a a bit. I was involved in the remodeling of my kitchen. It needed to be completely gutted from the floors up. It is finished except for a little paint work around one door and I believe I can put that off until the late fall. I also took time to for for a 3000 mile motorcycle ride down the "Blue Ridge Parkway" and also rode the "Tail of the Dragon" the infamous Tennessee route 129 from Deals Gap to Maryville. It was 11 miles and 318 turns. Actually the bark of it was worse than the bite, but managed just fine.

The update I intend to do today is just to get things back on track. I have been working on the wire harness and actually removed a lot of unnecessary wiring including the ABS and grip heater wiring. I somehow accidently circumvented the brake safety,so will go back and see what I did wrong. At any rate, the wiring is intact and all systems with that one exception work as intended.

I managed to start the engine on gasoline (petrol) instead of using starting ether. Once I purged the air from the fuel injector system, it ran quite smoothly. It surprised me actually since I was expecting something of a three headed monster to get it to start.... especially after taking the wiring harness down the butcher trail.

I also took time this summer to order the steering adapter and a few odd connectors for the Fiat Ignition switch. What a lifesaver Scott is... Thanks again... It was exactly what I needed.

right now I need to finish the mods to the harness and install a few tabs here and there, mount a few items and then it goes to the sandblaster and to the finish coating process. Still uncertain whether or not it will be enamel or powder coating. I am actually leaning toward the powder... so we will see.

Cheers to everyone out there with their builds and I look forward to reading your posts..

Roger Baker
Worcester, Ma

PS: You really didn't think I would post a video that showed the 35 tries before I got it running would you..