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Post by edvb on Jun 27, 2013 20:03:57 GMT
Scott
Even with the older axles ( 03-06 ) you need to turn about .250" off so the axle rides on the shoulder and not the threads. The reason is to have a washer or two before the spacer so that the brake caliper rides in the center of the disk. You had to install the washers so the axle shoulder was a little too short on the other end. In order for it to work required turning down the other end about .125" to 250". But the axle is drilled in this area so it will be too thin in this area. I will have to go another route.
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Post by roger32849 on Jun 29, 2013 12:51:58 GMT
 So far the build has been pretty decent. I am very impressed with the welding job done by Scott's team. The engine sits in the saddle square and true with the frame. The modifications to the shock absorber system and the motor hanger were minor in nature. Making the new supports and welding them in place was expected. Right now I am getting the calipers mounted. The right side went right on without a hitch. The holes were properly spaced and the contours of the mount matched the caliper perfectly. I had to shim beneath mount bolt to bring the caliper in line with the rotor. I need to make a couple of axle spacers and move on to address some issues with the left caliper mounting. I have encountered some difficulty with mounting the caliper on the left side and have sent Scott a message asking for his advise. First of all, I have to say all the difficulties are not really serious ones and are quite minor in nature. It is part of the 'Building' process and the misalignment can be corrected. Here is what I found. The drilled holes on the caliper mount required reboring to align them to the caliper. Once I got them drilled out, I had to reshape the mount to match the contour of the caliper. Great!!?? Not yet, I installed the wheel with rotor attached and bolted the caliper in place. The lower bolts needed to be shimmed to square it with the rotor. After I snugged up the bolts I noticed the caliper top appeared crooked and was leaning into the rotor. I am going to attempt to straighten the mount to bring it to where it should be. I will try to tighten the mount in a bench vise and apply pressure to the entire piece, but have some concerns I will cause the axle holes to come out of alignment. I have a bench press and may be able to straighten it by applying pressure directly to the mount. Finally, I may have to make a slice along the inner weld with an angle grinder and 1/16" cutting wheel. This would allow me to temporarily place a small wedge in the slice and shift the mount to correct the problem. Before I do that, I am going to brain storm the issue a bit more.  The Right side caliper is pretty straight, or at least as good as I can get it using washers. I will make a permanent shim using a piece of properly sized flat stock, washers are soft and will chaff away potentially causing the bolts to loosen. Right now, all of my efforts are to get the axle spacers made. I scored a nice length from one of the Honda GL1100 front rims. It is the bearing spacer located between the NS and OS front axle bearings. Thats all for now.. Roger |
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Post by erik on Jun 30, 2013 7:44:15 GMT
Hi Roger,
Seems you have a warranty issue here. I wouldn't mess with this and send it right back to the factory and let them take care of this. You have plenty of other things to spend your time with. Making right what went wrong isn't the best route.
good progress tough!
br,
Erik
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Post by roger32849 on Jun 30, 2013 21:23:57 GMT
 I just thought I would see what sort of comments I will get if I decide to go with a flat windshield. Sort of like the old Austin Frog Eyed Sprite...  |
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Post by roger32849 on Jun 30, 2013 21:28:52 GMT
Hi Roger, Seems you have a warranty issue here. I wouldn't mess with this and send it right back to the factory and let them take care of this. You have plenty of other things to spend your time with. Making right what went wrong isn't the best route. good progress tough! br, Erik Erik What I did was contact Scott on the message side of the board and we discussed the issue with an exchange of email. The Eco-Exo guys have been very good at standing behind their product and I do appreciate their support when needed. Returning the piece is not necessary and can be repaired/tweaked. You may be correct that something at the assembly point was misaligned, but this was not catastrophic but minor in nature. Everything effects everything in one way or another. One misalignment may cause several problems. Thanks for the suggestion and your input... Roger |
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Post by roger32849 on Jun 30, 2013 21:37:57 GMT
 I shortened the top of the windshield bracket after this picture was taken. If you compare the photos in the above panel, you can see it angles inward. I have the front end attached, but naturally I must disassemble everything for the powder coating when that time comes. I bought some Grade 8 bolts and nuts for the Rose/Heim joints and will be buying more for the "A" arm pivots. Before anybody says anything, I know my ball joints are on upside down. This is just a photo op picture and not intended for my build progress. When I receive the package from Kevin I can position my seat and drill and attach my steering column. Everything is going pretty good. Heck, I may do a couple of these... Roger |
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Post by roger32849 on Jun 30, 2013 21:46:03 GMT
 The fuel injector is located just to the left (front) of the fuel tank mount. I had my fuel tank modified (work in progress) by a blacksmith shop here in Worcester Ma. Edlin and Son does about everything from fabricating large projects, to ornamental TIG projects. The tank will be TIG welded and the front 4 inches will be removed from the bottom half of the tank even with the side seam. This will provide clearance enough for the engine to move with the shock absorber system, and not contact the fuel tank. By the way, they will be leaving the original mounts in place. Roger |
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Post by roger32849 on Jul 2, 2013 21:17:36 GMT
 I had a "friends and family vote" for the windscreen, here is the winner. This is an odd combination of fitment. Scott sent the gauge cluster (by the way Scott, I tested the gauges, lights and wiring. What I tested was good. I couldn't test the speedo..) ANYWAY... to continue.. and the front trim piece and mounting frame. I already had the windscreen. I do not know the year of the donor the gauges came from, but the windscreen is a 2008. The mounting holes did not align, but that is a small matter corrected by a drill and appropriate size bit. It is a bit tall but no complaints. I am attaching a shot of the gauges with the clock and the Odometer illuminated... The first digit is washed out by the flash, but there is over 43K on the odometer... All is well and the build continues... Roger  |
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Post by roger32849 on Jul 2, 2013 21:29:24 GMT
 I received a very nice gift from Ed Van Belkom yesterday. He sent me his old radiator. I had to have it welded and new tabs installed and it fits with plenty of room. I need to do a little trimming around the rear tank cover, but, that is going to be beneath the aluminum cover on the roll bar.  This is a story in itself. The tank resting on relocated mounts. The 2008 mounts are much farther forward than the older tanks. I also had to move the rear mounts "back" about an inch. I raised the tank by over an inch and all mounts are clear of anything critical and support the tank quite well.  Here is the modification to the tank so it would clear the cam chain tensioner and the fuel injection system. The total capacity NEW is 3.6 US Gallons, the Capacity now is 3.0 USG. |
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Post by roger32849 on Jul 4, 2013 0:24:16 GMT
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Post by roger32849 on Jul 4, 2013 0:28:47 GMT
 I thought I would try a short video of a quick walk around. So here it is.... Roger |
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Post by ray.h. on Jul 4, 2013 1:04:05 GMT
a quick question Roger. what bushes are used to mount the engine to the frame, basically are they hard enough to resist the side ways movement when you turn a corner or is there a bit of side ways flex in the drive train.
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Post by roger32849 on Jul 4, 2013 1:30:57 GMT
I used the factory bushing in the turnbuckle and the upper motor mount. I have never driven one of these so I cannot tell you how it handles. The best person to speak to or to ask is Scott....
Thanks for your interest.
Roger
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Post by edvb on Jul 4, 2013 4:46:36 GMT
Wow Rodger Keep this up and you will be driving it next week! The tank looks great and you did a top notch job on the Misalignment spacers. How much more travel can you get? I have 2 7/8" total travel with my stock A-arms. I am glad the coupler idea worked as I will do the same to mine. I am going to get some sleep and start glassing the instrument panel and bonnet tomorrow or I will not be able to catch up to you going at your pace  |
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Post by ray.h. on Jul 4, 2013 11:04:50 GMT
cheers roger. superb build diary and love the photos.very informative and gives me a realy good view of the installation and the quality of kit supplied and the work your putting in. im currently trying to source a cheepish donor vehicle and trying to sell my other bikes to finance a build of my own.
the reason I ask about the rear bushes is that on another forum someone was having issues with the rear end stearing itself when you either accelerate or slow down while cornering possibly due to lateral movement in the drive train. I don't think this was an eco exo though but im sure it was a similar installation.
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