Here is my very first "SNAG". The 2008 engine shock mount is located in a different spot than the older models. I need to cut the shock mounts off the chassis as well as the turnbuckle mounts and move them to the vehicle's left side 1-3/8 inch. This is approximately the width of the connecting link. As you view the picture you can see the offset is needed (to the photos "RIGHT"... I am not using the 2008 turnbuckle, but am using the 2008 shock. All lengths are identical between the 2003 -06 and the 2007 and later models using the newer style engine. I need to buy some 1-1/2" X 1/4" flat stock and also buy a good metal hole saw.
The suspension type rear mount "hanger" is from a 2003-06 Burgman 400. The 2008 required way to much work to make it fit. The over length (or width depending on how you look at it) is about 1-1/2" wider on the 2007 and later models. The engine hanger is this photo still had to be modified. The engine mount point was 3/8' wider than the hanger's inside mount width would accommodate. I removed the inner bushings trimmed 3/16' of an inch from each side. The fit was very snug and the modification only took a few minutes.
If you check out the rear tire, it aligns quite nicely with the center line of the trike. In this photo, the engine is mounted "Snug" but not tight. The engine mount/suspension bolts and all in place, and the shock linkage is haphazardly attached. The engine and shock assembly is supporting the frame.
I did a test fit to determine if the exhaust would interfere with the frame, or other rear parts of the kit. So far, other than the snag with the shock mount, the engine even though larger is not that much more difficult to install than the older model design. Note the upward angle of the muffler, it is very close to what it should be and what it looked like on the Scooter frame. As a note, the angle of the photo creates an illusion that the frame is lower than it really is and makes the muffler look as though it is dragging, but I assure you, it is mounted with plenty of clearance.
NOTE: before I remove the engine to install the newer mounts, I will do a test fit of the newer style radiator. Ed Van Belkom is sending me a 2003 model radiator, but If there is a way to mount the wider radiator, I will do so, but will not beat myself up trying to get it to fit.
So far, I purchased the following from the 2003 - 2006 Suzuki Burgman 400.
2 front rims with rotors and new bearings and seals both front brake calipers axle kit for front Brake pads for all 3 calipers rear engine hanger ***speedometer and associated plastics, frame and wiring pigtail from a scooter older than 2003***
You are off to a great start! It should not be too hard to grind off the existing mounts and make some new ones and have them welded in the proper location. It will be a brush up for the other tabs you will probably be welding on for the new gas tank and GRP panels. It looks like it fits well so maybe you lucked out.
I had to cut the "factory" mounts out for the shock absorber system. I moved the entire shock, turnbuckle and linkage about 1-3/8 inches to the left side of the trike. This aligned the engine with the rear mount. The third mount shown is from Scott's fabrication for the older donor bike. Since it was not in the way, I just left it alone. If you notice, I welded a companion brace to the original shock mount. Instead of the support being 1/4 inch, it is now 1/2 inch. I am not sure but I believe the shock mounting hardware on the 2006 and older models is a larger diameter than the 2007 and newer. The support I made incorporates a smaller diameter hole and I simply welded a companion support on the OEM support provided by "Team Turner" Instead of it being 1/4" thick on that side, it is 1/2" The second photos shows it better.
The photo below shows the new supports all welded in. I had to grind the originals off. I didn't want to grind the older ones down to the tube surface. I am not sure what the heat from welding would do. Mild steel is easy to grind and it with the awkward angle, I decided to just keep the weld beads but grind it down some and hit it with a "flap sander" on my grinder.
The BLACK engine support is from a 2008, the one I am using for the 08 engine is a "Slightly" modified 2003-06 support. The newer one is a little less than an inch wider than the older version, making it impossible to cut down and modify without cutting into the rubber inserts. It was easier to trim a little off the older version and proceed with the installation.
Thanks for the kind words. Today I got the shock supports welded in. I didn't want to grind to much off the originals so I cut what I could and flap sanded the weld beads down but not even with the tubing. With the engine installed there is about 4-3/4" between the bottom of the frame and the ground for clearance. Once I get inside and then start adding the rest, I imagine the clearance will settle down to around the 4" mark.
I used a Dremel tool to clean the steering rack. It was in pretty decent condition but had begun to show its exposure to the weather. The small wire brushes worked great. I will no longer buy the brushes at Harbor Freight. They are very hazardous and not made to withstand the RPM of the power head. I wound up being pelted by steel splinters flying off the brush. It felt like being stung by a swarm of bees. I will say this, though, they did the job but.. very dangerous if you even "SLIGHTLY" go past the rated RPM of 3600...
I spent some time cutting the axles down. I am not sure I will use these though. I am going to buy some "Cold Roll" steel and make the axles out of solid stock. The OEM axles pictured here are hollow and when you approach the head end, the diameter of the bore in a lot wider than at the threaded end. I am not sure if these will hold up if torqued down and stressed as the trike negotiates a sharp corner. If anybody has any experience using these, please let me know. I had to turn down about 1-1/2". I have some concerns the head end will seperate from the shaft, sending me in a ditch somewhere..
Okay, I found a suitable substitute to make front axles from. I made them from past donor motorcycles. One axle is a 15mm Honda GL1000 and the other is a 15 mm Honda GL1100. The GL1100 was about 1/2' shorter but was easier to work with. The GL1000 required a little "Fill welding" to fill in a factory made groove. Both axles are solid and they fit through the bearings and mounts.
I simply did not trust the very thin hollow OEM Suzuki Burgman axles after I turned them down on the lathe. If you check out the picture you can see the inside bore. By the way, I tried to tap it with a 12mm X 1.5 Tap. I only scored the inside. The outside diameter is 15mm, so the wall thickness is about 1.5 mm. Not what I would call a wide margin for error.
One big plus in having the Goldwing donor axles is the spacers, which is the perfect diameter to fit into the offside bearing seal. I will need to ad another spacer to take up the difference in length as the Honda Spacers were not entirely long enough to do the job.
Anyway, I have a lot of work ahead of me and those "hard" bolts and nuts ain't cheap!!! Just spent $9.00 on two bolts....
I bought what I thought was an older axle. It turned out to be a 2007 or newer. So much for ebay. I was hoping it would fit, diameter was good but length was a problem. When turned down on a lathe it made the wall dangerously thin. Using the older axles or modifying a 15mm GL1000/1100 axle Iin my case worked well.