|
|
Post by DaveJ98002 on Mar 16, 2014 22:14:35 GMT
Is a Burgman 400 allowed on Mt Washington? I thought there was a NO Scooter rule as scooters do not have engine compression braking, EXCEPT a Burgman 650.  |
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Mar 18, 2014 12:09:38 GMT
That is a good point. Compression braking would be almost mandatory especially on THAT road. I do it every year on my annual ride to Gorham. The tolls have gotten a bit prohibitive, but it is still a great view and for first timers it is worth the cost. If I decide to take my Eco-Exo out in that area, I will probably not attempt it after thinking about all the hot brakes folks get and the smell of burnt brake pads. I think Mt Greylock would be okay. I took the Burgman up there last year and it did just fine.
Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts
|
|
|
|
Post by erik on Mar 18, 2014 19:47:55 GMT
Just enable all brake pads in the front wheels. stock setup cancelles out half of them |
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Mar 19, 2014 19:21:45 GMT
Erik
The problem isn't the pads, it is the rotors overheating and warping. I actually melted a plastic saddlebag from a Kawasaki VN1200 (when it was new) coming down the same highway off the mountain. Maybe a drag chute would help... But I doubt it. I've been up there almost every year since moving to New England, trust me, compression braking is a must.....
Roger
|
|
|
|
Post by erik on Mar 20, 2014 16:56:31 GMT
Exo Would be a great project for e-power and generative braking . My C1 runs down from a 7% hill at constant pace with the AC on and I'm not in need for additional braking. One could add wheel hub motors in the front exo wheels and an electic heater/ airco unit to waste generated heat. I bet one could program the controller for a massive brake setting. Just a thought... |
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Mar 21, 2014 0:16:55 GMT
What I really intend to do this summer is get a head start on driving my trike as much as I can. I am anxious about getting some sunshine on me and the Eco-Exo as a team. I am finished engineering mods and other changes for now. It has limited space to add even the smallest of extras and still have room for me. It is something considering but perhaps on a larger scale project. The snow here is all but gone, still patches here and there and soon the trees will be green again and it will be summer. That is the thought I am clinging to for now... It has been a long winter, can't you tell LOL
|
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Apr 3, 2014 23:10:58 GMT
I have not added much information since I finished doing some test rides. I had a minor glitch recently in electrical system. Whether it was due to my ECM being defective or just bad Karma, doesn't enter into it. I was out on a ride and when I got within 2 blocks of home, it shut down. No power to my fuel delivery or ignition systems. The ECM does not do a self test by cycling the fuel pump and or throttle body. I had intended to replace my 1999 gauge cluster with my original 2008 in the fall after riding season wan winding down... I just stepped up the process a bit. I received the new harness today and did all the connection identification already. Tomorrow I do a test installation to see what sort of faults I get on the readout on my 2008 Speedometer fault center. Hopefully, the ECM has not fried....
Roger
Worcester Massachusetts
|
|
|
|
Post by erik on Apr 6, 2014 18:10:18 GMT
Hi Roger,
Too bad to see you're having electrical issues and need to rework an other loom. What worked for me is to label the wiring on both ends regardless the color code on it which makes a double check.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Erik
|
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Apr 7, 2014 20:59:30 GMT
I thought I would update the above information...I started up the trike this morning after finding a small snag in the connector to the STVA. I made the correction and it purrs like a kitten. I ran out of silicone tape and solder and stopped for the day to resupply. As an added note, all three of my ECM's were in fact good. I really liked that part of the fix.. What this little snafu has done is give me the reason to upgrade my gauge cluster to a 2008 with the fault code reader. That little luxury is worth it's weight in gold. It doesn't mess around, it gets right to the problem and let's you know what it is..
Tomorrow I will connect my light system and hooter and start to work on the cable to the speedometer. By the end of the month, it should be well on the road and logging warm weather miles.
Erik, I do have a wiring system similar to yours. I have a kit that I use to number the wires. I attach the number then record the information onto my computer. I also make enlargements of the wiring diagrams and make subsets as it applies to me and how I did the build. I am a fast learner and what I learned recently is, that no matter how careful you do something no matter how thorough you are, "if it can go wrong, it WILL go wrong". MURPHYS LAW....
That's about all for now. This little repair job was not a MAJOR malfunction, I am sure I would have found the cause given a little more time. I wanted to make the updates and have the nicer gauges so went straight to work on that. As a result I am adding he following.. Emergency stop switch, brake light override Momentary switch and the Dealer Mode Select switch. I have the space and so why not.... Ride safe
Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts
|
|
|
|
Post by smokinguitarplayer on Apr 8, 2014 14:36:02 GMT
Roger ... wow ...really good info ... I suspect that your electrical diagrams / etc. will help a lot of people .. fred bernardo
\
|
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Apr 12, 2014 2:02:54 GMT
I fabricated a couple of mounts. One for the ECM and the other for the fuse box. The fuse box is actually stacked on the ECM. I completed the wire tracing and have the small stuff remaining, headlamps, signals and horn... All easy stuff. After that, I trim, wrap and route. I found an ideal container for the 100 ohm resistor. It is an empty dental floss dispenser. It paints nicely and I can use a pop rivet to hold it in place. A person could actually incorporate the resistor into a removable security imobiliser. Like having it soldered into a cartridge and keeping it on your key chain. Anyway, the gauge cluster is looking good, and I have the front support all fabricated. I need to hit the hardware store again and buy a few more feet of 3/4" x3/16" flat stock, so I can have a 4 point mount.
My notes, prints and other wiring diagrams are really not unique in any way. Erik is using all of the original harness and handlebar switches. It is an excellent way to keep the wiring harness original, and it does not create any issues with the imobiliser or diagnostic center later on. Other than the Fiat headlamps, ignition switch and turn signals, my harness is pretty much original as well, and I can use a standard Burgman wiring diagram and just add in the Fiat circuitry.
Once you go through a build and put things together yourself, the maintenance is a lot easier than if you bought it ready to drive. I will be posting a few pictures when I get the modifications completed... Like I mentioned to Ed Van Belkom, I am doing some things along with the upgraded gauges and I am not quite ready to write about yet..... I just want to make sure everything works properly before I do......
And to SMOKINGUITARPLAYER..... any word on when you will be getting your kit?
Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts.
|
|
|
|
Post by erik on Apr 12, 2014 6:07:35 GMT
Need to note I wasn't in need for a wiring diagram at all. with the an400 switches it's really cut/extend only. The only creative electrical issue was to parrallel the engine stop to the fiat key switch and connect the front brake switch to the brake pressure switch for brake light/starter. Not too hard to accomplisch Need to note I used the original key switch as well which cancelled out the use of the fiat key switch at all, but I reconed the enginne stop/fiat key switch combo is an safety item and anti theft device. Brake level sensor hasn't been used as well to keep wiring to a minimum and nav feed will be from the 12V socket connector. However, If i was to build the loom over again I'd keep the batterie, regulator and key switch in front like the original position which would really make the loom cut through and extend for about 22 wires only. I ended up with more free space under the front cover as expexted and the original system seems to cope well with the long batterie leads. Looking forward to your gauge mods! greets! Erik |
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Apr 12, 2014 22:53:37 GMT
The gauge mods are not really all that spectacular, but a huge improvement in the tech department. I wired in the "DEALER MODE SWITCH" as a permanent switch. Makes troubleshooting a lot easier. The older gauge set I had didn't even have a tachometer. Now, the 2008 wiring harness matches the 2008 gauges and the 2008 engine sensors and electronics. The plus is I now have an air temperature indicator and a tach.... (And a nicer set of clocks). I did not get so invasive with the harness and extended wires only where necessary. I ordered a new ECM, and a nicer windshield to complete the modifications. My new dash plate will contain the Dealer mode switch, the Emergency Stop Switch, and an override momentary switch that bypasses the brake switch for starting the engine for warm ups and maintenance. I will be adding a spare switch for future use... And balance.
On the other end of the installation: I utilized the unused fuses that were for the headlights and redistributed the electrical load. I also remade my wiring diagrams and enlarged the Stock Burgman color wiring chart. I had to make a few brackets and do a little simple metal fabrication, but nothing out of the ordinary.
That's it for now..
Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts
|
|
|
|
Post by roger32849 on Apr 14, 2014 10:52:05 GMT
Yesterday was a busy day. I managed to get the wiring completed with he exception of the emergency flashers. I am going to see if I can find a suitable (better) switch. I am not to thrilled about the one I was using. The lead in wires are soft and break very easily, also the insulation can be stripped by just looking at it wrong.. Almost like a latex glove. I will see what I can find at the parts store later today....
The rewire wasn't all that difficult, just time consuming. The new tunnel and gauge plate will be taken to the powder coater today. I need to mark and drill the mounting holes in it first, then insert a couple of rivnuts in the cross bar and it will be finished. The bulkhead, seat, and tank cover get installed today. The hood and gauges will have to wait until I get the items back from the coater. Depending on the coaters finish time, I should be on the road shortly.
NOTE TO COLORADO BUILDERS: Welcome to the Eco-Exo-R owners forum. Give me a shout if you need any assistance..
Roger
Worcester, Massachusets
|
|
|
|
Post by edvb on Apr 14, 2014 23:36:44 GMT
Good to hear Roger. Your tunnel looks great and should work well for your application. As yourself I am pretty happy with my loom after redoing it a few times. Great day for me also as I got my rear shock spring tested and calculated the new spring rate to get my 4" ride height. For your info here is what the stock 07 Burgman spring tested at.
Stock Spring 07 Burgman Shock
1" = 375Lbs Preload on shock is 1"
2" = 415 Lbs
3" = 415 Lbs
This is rated as a 415 Lbs Spring.
Extended Spring Length 193MM
Preload 177MM (23MM preload)
Spring Length Static Sag 167MM
Frame Height 100MM = 3.93"
Spring Length Sag with Rider 159MM
Frame Height 78MM = 3.07"
|
|
