Well a little setback. I calculated the loads I would be needing but the horn need 18A and the stereo(music mean a lot to me on a great ride) need about 10A. I have to add some #14 & #12 wires to carry the load. Not a big deal as I am rewrapping the complete loom anyway. The good part is everything fits and all the small tabs for the relays and fuse box have been bolted or welded in place.
Now to tackle the rear engine bulkhead and I will be home free.
Any suggestions or help on this would be a great help to get this bit correct.
The main thing is ease of removal for adjusting valves and any work that might need to be done for routine maintenance. Preliminary thoughts are for the bottom piece having a lip in back that the back piece will fit over. When it rains it will act like flashing on a roof preventing water to enter. It will not be totally leak-proof but will shed most of the water away from the bottom cover that protects the battery, loom and starter relay. I have some ideas but more minds give better thoughts on how to tackle the problem.
Tackled the loom again this weekend. This seems to take the most time in the build!
I went to the 110th anniversary Harley Davidson show in Milwaukee this weekend. I was able to check out all the different stereos and got a good deal on this one made by www.Cyclesounds.com. It is the smallest head unit available as of today and does not draw too much current. I also received my Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet regulator kit www.roadstercycle.com and started installing it.
I only have about 30 amps of charge current to work with from the stator so I try to make it as efficient as possible.
I finally got done and just need to wrap the silicone tape with a good vinyl tape. That will be covered with a heat shield where it goes by the radiator lines. The last details for the tabs needed for the speakers, Amp, Head end and regulator are done so when those are made and tack welded in I will be ready for final welding, blasting and paint.
Here are some pictures of the stereo I got and final loom shape. I did a lot of revisions to clean it up and this is what I came up with when done.
There just is not a lot of room to work with so sometimes it takes three tries to get everything to fit.
I also trimmed my bonnet on the bottom for the radiator exhaust hole and adjusted the mounts a bit. Now it clicks on or off in seconds. Really happy on this one.
Worked on the rear of the loom today. I added a power post to the side of the battery support to connect all the positive feeds to. They include the following:
These two were terminated under one lug so I have a solid connection from the regulator to the battery Regulator output + Battery cable +
Starter relay +
These two are under one lug Horn inline fuse + Headlights inline fuse +
B+ to front fuse box
This makes for a cleaner install and also easier to troubleshoot in case of problems. It was also needed whenever removing the engine/ tranny from the frame. It uses a 1/4-20 bolt and nut so when tightened down should not see any losses at this point.
I did the same with the grounds, Regulator and battery cables under one lug. All are very close to the battery. Should be bulletproof when done.
I also wired in the new Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet regulator . It was easy to solder on the new connectors and as a total system should be able to carry the extra load that I installed on this trike. It should run cooler and cannot be seen where I placed it.
Here are the pictures of the rear of the loom all wired up. The new regulator is installed and wired in. To remove the engine all the wiring can be disconnected in minutes. A 2" cable boot will be installed in the aluminum bulkhead for the wiring to pass through.
Not for a while yet. I need to make the template for the rear bulkheads determine where the tabs to fasten them will be placed and fabricate and weld those on.By that time the tabs for the radio, speakers and amp will be installed.
Next the engine/tranny will be taken out and the frame will have the final welds done to it.
The floorpan will be cut out and holes drilled in the floorpan and frame for the rivets.
Then I will fit the rear bulkheads and do whatever sheetmetal work is needed for a good fit.
Next it will be off to the painter for blasting and paint.
Then the final assembly begins. Hopefully all this will be done by the end of the month.
Just a touch of the horn is all that is needed for most cases
Thanks. I think the radio will be a good fit and the speakers should hide pretty good under the dash. It is ordered so no going back now.
When I talked to the company he also suggested that. I looked at my space under the dash and where my top mounts for the bonnets are welded in. Those mounts will hold a stud that mounts the speakers just below the crosstube in front. I should be able to aim them directly at my ears and all the sound will be coming from the front. I think it will work well and be unintrusive. Overall I think it will look and sound better but we will see when I get the unit.
There are a lot of units out there and I got to listen to many of them last weekend.
The good ones that should last and not draw too much current can be costly. I got a deal on mine but it still was around $500 US so not cheap. There is not a lot of bass as the freq. response is around 200 Hz to 11K Hz.
It draws about 1.5 - 2 Amps but is clear and very loud so was the best choice for the 05 Burgman I am using.
It seems we have great products on both of the pond and just need to find the one that works the best for our particular application.
Yep, lots of choices to make a kitcar looking posh. Lotsa options to ruin a good kit as well For this reason I order my parts as late as possible to do it right first time and save rework (and cash).
great progress so far here in this thread! Don't get intimidated on the larger kits. The tR1ke is a good first kitcar project as well with ready made tanks and relatively simple loom. Seeing the Burgman loom and tank modifications is a new challenge to deal with for me. As for the car engined kitcars, feels to me a no go area because I am not a car mechanic but somehow i feel after building a bike engined kitcar it's less fun to own a car engined kit. The bike engined kits respond more hardcore IMO.
Personally I don't have a lot of warm feelings about carbon layups. Ducati carbon parts I used were 2nd hand because new items are way overpriced.Buying carbon parts feels like theft in your wallet. Carbon optical layups are overrated IMO and I feel this is 1995-2005 area. I think an alu bulkhead will look very neat. You may reconsider not to use a bulkhead as well.
As for side panels, the acryl plates are very expensive (about 400euro in total) and I guess a layed up plate even more. i don't think I will add side panels to my Exo and enjoy the breeze. After all, it stays an open car.
I think you are right and most likely will make the bulkhead out of aluminum. The bottom one fits around the contour of the seat and was the hardest to mock up. I also did the tunnel that will go all the way back so no wiring or cables are exposed. I need to tweak the area where they meet but overall looks pretty good.
I will do the top one today and take some pictures with and without the top so you can see the difference.
I think overall it will cut down the noise a little bit and will give me another area to put storage bags if needed.
I will make some mockups for the side panels and store them for future use if needed. It is much easier now and at least I have the pattern to work from instead of trying to do it on the finished trike.