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Post by edvb on Sept 1, 2015 21:34:17 GMT
Here are the patterns. Not the brightest but for 114mm Headlights that are hard to find and are DOT legal I can settle for that. I did raise them a little bit and had no problems with other cars approaching me. They feel just about right now. Low IMG_3174 by evanbelkom, on Flickr High IMG_3176 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by erik on Sept 4, 2015 17:00:15 GMT
Hehe, I never thought your project is finished... you keep on tinkering LOL!!!
The lights look bright to me!
greets! Erik
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Post by edvb on Sept 6, 2015 19:47:25 GMT
Ha ha. Well the list is getting short now. I always wanted the LED lights and finally found some that fit well. I went out last night and the headlights are fine as is now.
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Post by edvb on Jan 5, 2016 22:19:31 GMT
I just came up with another idea for the Leo Vince exhaust. In order to change the rear tire I have to loosen the two exhaust bolts on the engine in order to tilt the exhaust tube down to make enough room to slip the muffler off. I am thinking of cutting the exhaust pipe just before the muffler and welding a stainless V-clamp there. That way I just loosen the V-clamp and the muffler with the small section of exhaust pipe and V clamp flange attached can easily be removed. What do you all think of this? IMG_0864 by evanbelkom, on Flickr 1486_WEBL by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 5, 2016 22:27:16 GMT
That is a very good idea. Never liked the design of the 400's need to drop the exhaust to change the rear tire.
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Post by edvb on Jan 6, 2016 20:59:09 GMT
Thanks Dave
I checked and will be able to get the Stainless V band for $70 US shipped. I have a friend that will TIG weld the flanges on for me.
I will post pic's when done. This will make it super easy to change the rear tire. Just loosen the V clamp remove three bolts and the whole muffler and bracket will be out of the way to remove the wheel.
I already removed the exhaust pipe and muffler today so ready to go as soon as the part arrives.
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Post by edvb on Jan 10, 2016 18:54:51 GMT
I cleaned up the header pipe and checked where to weld the V band. The only point was where the black cables are hanging down in this picture. IMG_0864 by evanbelkom, on Flickr In order to remove the rear wheel I would need to do the following. Remove the V band. Remove the three bolts holding the S/S muffler bracket and the muffler with part of the header attached can be set aside. Remove the three bolts holding the black Burgman muffler support mount and set it aside. Remove rear wheel. Install in reverse order. The good part is the 2.5" long section of the header pipe is 1.375" O.D. in diameter. The V band flanges have an I.D. of 1.38" not counting the little step on the edge that is 1.52" I.D.. The flanges are each .520 deep so plenty of length to fit the header tubes into. The main reason for this is I do not have to remove the header bolts on the engine or remove the header pipe from the muffler when changing a tire. The carbon sleeve on the muffler is fragile and removing the bolts on the engine header flange every time the muffler has to be removed did not seem to be the best way to go. What are your thoughts before I go ahead with this?
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 14, 2016 13:29:00 GMT
Ed.
How much space is there between the spot you are going to cut on the exhaust and the engine? It looks to be pretty close. Will there be enough room for the V band clamp and flanges when you are through? For as often as you need to change your rear tire, I would say think about it first... (which I already know you have) but just had to throw that out there. I know you are dedicated to ease of maintenance and access and are very methodical and precise when you do anything... especially making daggarboards..LOL
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by edvb on Jan 14, 2016 23:45:19 GMT
I got the V-band and test fitted it where it would go. I ended up returning it as it was not going to solve the problem like I thought. It was just as easy to remove the two bolts from the engine exhaust port and the three holding the muffler on. I was able to just put the whole assembly aside and remove the three bolts for last mount. I also discussed this with Roger but he knew I would come around to that conclusion. As far as the daggerboard it ended turning out well but some problems getting it out of the case made me look like this The good news is I was able to get a pair of HID Photon headlights with Main/dip in black with polished aluminum shroud. These should look and perform better that what I have now. That and with the new rear tire is about all the changes I will make for this year. Hopefully these last changes will add that last little bit of farkle to what I have done so far. Edward
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Post by qdos on Jan 15, 2016 15:45:34 GMT
Always good seeing what you do to your trike Ed. Shame I'm the other side of the Atlantic really, I was seriously tempted to move over to CA back in 2000 although that's right over the other side of the country I know.
Keep at the good work and thanks for sharing once again
Kelvin
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Post by edvb on Jan 30, 2016 23:54:55 GMT
Well Winter is taking it's time so I thought I would update a few things. Here is before IMG_2997 by evanbelkom, on Flickr This is after HID Photon Projectors with Dip/High and new DOT approved LED turn signals. IMG_3465 by evanbelkom, on Flickr installed a Metzler rear tire to match the fronts I also installed a Metzler rear tire to match the fronts 20160127_142517 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 31, 2016 15:00:56 GMT
Ed:
Great decision on the lights. The original location looks like the best fit after all. It is clean and doesn't take away from the design you initially envisioned when you molded the bonnet. There you go.... raising the bar again. When you take the trike out at night (not until spring) do a review.
I have a few ideas myself that are currently in the design phase. I will not be publishing previews until I am certain the design will work with the overall construction of my trike.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by edvb on Jan 31, 2016 18:49:39 GMT
Thanks Roger As you know I went a lot of ways for mounting the lights and this at the end worked the best and is the cleanest install. Here is the beam pattern of the lights after adjustment. click on picture for video MVI_3469 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Feb 2, 2016 0:55:15 GMT
Well it was a beautiful day but we are getting 10 inches of snow tomorrow. I decided to take the trike out on the driveway and test everything before putting it away for the next three months. Everything works great so I should not have to do anything else to it for a long while. Here is a video and some pictures just before I put it away. Click on picture for Video 20160201_105330 by evanbelkom, on Flickr 20160201_105132 by evanbelkom, on Flickr 20160201_105142 by evanbelkom, on Flickr 20160201_110001 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Feb 6, 2016 15:53:25 GMT
After installing the Photon HID headlights I found one problem in the operation that I have cured. When I turn my ignition to on the lights on dip going through a relay come on right away. When turning key to start they turn off and as soon as I release the key from start mode they come on again. This is not good for HID bulbs and ballasts. I bought a PAC-TR-7 Universal Trigger Output Module that has a programmable delay timer that I set for 20 seconds. I connected the trigger wire to the plus side of the fuel pump. The output plus wire goes to the plus side of the coil for the dip beam relay. s-l300 by evanbelkom, on Flickr When I turn the ignition on the fuel pump activates for 2-5 seconds and shuts off. The delay timer start the countdown for 20 seconds but is reset at 2-5 seconds when power is dropped to the fuel pump and delay timer from the ECM. The HID lights stay off until the engine starts and the ECM applies power to the fuel pump. 20 seconds later the delay timer times out and activates the dip beam relay turning on the HID lights. The high beam only activates the shutter so I do not need a delay for that. It is a simple solution to make the lighting fully automatic and to prevent early failure of the HID bulb or ballast. It allows being able to turn the ignition on to test something or to run the stereo or GPS without having the draw of the HID headlights added to the equation. Edward
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