Let battle commence

[Deleted]

I like the sight tube for the header tank, I always thought that was a most useful device. And why it's not fitted on standard ones is a mystery. Have you fitted your quick rack internals yet? Makes a lot of difference to driving, makes it much more precise for sure. But maybe a little skittish at high speed, or maybe that's just me :-)

[andy7b]

Hopefully the sight tube will make life a bit easier, I have been a bit busy at work the last few days so not made much progress but I have got some water pipes made. Also I'm looking into cables, are Venhill the best option? I see a few of you have used them,

[Deleted]

They make things to measure, but you can buy all the bits a build them yourself, as I did with my front pipes.

[andy7b]

Ok thanks, I can make the brake pipes I think it's the gear and clutch cable that are my main concern so I rang them today and left a message just waiting for them to call back. :-)
Hopefully I will get a few brackets welded on and the last few holes drilled so it can all go for powder coat by the end of the month then I can restart my build properly :-)

[erik]

Clutch cable isn't a head crusher. the clutch lever needs 20kg force to operate which is similar like a fishing line thus a normal bicycle type of cable would to the job for the parking brake as well. However, I did use 75kG nylon coated steel braided fishing wire as throttle cable to minimize friction in the outer cable which finally got the engine to run identical idle rpm (with aid of a light pulling spring to close the carbs to idle)

Take great care for the foot pedal leverages. Stock pedals settings have little travel and high force needed to operate. Not a good thing controlling 150horses on 1" travel. same for the clutch sensitivity. You need to work on this. Have a browse in my thread for suggestions.

good luck!
Erik

[slugshot]

Hi Andy

For the gear change as you know you want a push-pull type cable so take a look at CABLE TECH, they have an online shop with very good details of their cables.

I use their heavy duty cable with 6mm rose joints for gear change and their lighter version for the clutch.

They are expensive but are very good quality.

[andy7b]

Thanks for the cable info I spoke to cable tec today and they where spot on, another job I can tick off the list. :-)

[Deleted]

May 16, 2013 21:17:53 GMT slugshot said:

Hi Andy

For the gear change as you know you want a push-pull type cable so take a look at CABLE TECH, they have an online shop with very good details of their cables.

I use their heavy duty cable with 6mm rose joints for gear change and their lighter version for the clutch.

They are expensive but are very good quality.

I use them to run the sequential paddle shifter mech to the mtx75 gearbox, I've used the 5mm versions at 3.5 m long.. Awesome product.

[andy7b]

Hi all hope your all enjoying the sun :-) I have been busy ordering things like cables (thanks kevin for the cable-tec suggestion they are very helpfull) they should be here next week. Also seat belts are hopefully on there way. It doesn't look a lot different to the last pictures but I have all the floor panels made and the rear section is in and I think I'm not going to fit the rear bulkhead, I quite like the idea of being able to see through to the engine and it will help keep things cool too. All panels are painted black on the back and I'm still making water pipes, everything will be powder,d satin black. Also trying to find a good place to hide the EXUP valve servo I thought about getting rid of it but I would prefer to keep the noise down in town though if my tR1ke comes out over 300kg then it's going :-) my aim is under 300 even if its 299.9 kg that's ok and the engine is getting some work done too.
Also managed to get the hand brake caliper mount done (thanks Kevin for the drawing)
Booked in for chassis & other bits to be powder coated June 22nd. So want to get as much done as possible before I strip it for that.
Brake pipes are next I think

[andy7b]

Missed a piccy

[slugshot]

Hi Andy

It looks very nice so far,it will be interesting to see were you hide all the electrics without a bulkhead.
Good look with the 300kg max aim, you're not bothering with a reverse motor then, my reverse setup adds about 17kg but its worth it.

[Deleted]

Looks good, love the colour, one thing I wanted to let you know, be careful when putting holes in the seats for race belts that the seat belts flow downward through the holes, and not up and over, MSVA tester don't like to see that, not normally a problem when the rear part of the seat is mounted direct to the floor.

[edwinwl]

In deed: looking great!

[andy7b]

Good advice for the seatbelt holes thankyou, and no I don't plan to fit a reverse as yet though maybe I will give in after pushing it a bit ? hopefully all the electrical stuff will be hidden under the nose and so there will just be a couple of looms to route round the back. Actually that reminds me, Kevin do you have your tail lights on at the same time as the front driving lights? Or do they come on when you turn the side lights on? I will also make it so that when I indicate the DRL on the indicating side will turn off to help see the indicator.

[erik]

May 28, 2013 21:11:14 GMT andy7b said:

I will also make it so that when I indicate the DRL on the indicating side will turn off to help see the indicator.

I don't think MVSA would dig this. I have set mine DRL at 50% but considering to set it at 100% for MVSA.
Just make it work like a regular car (flash lights and hazard lights operateable without ignition key!!) Don't get very creative with law regulations.

great progress!

Erik