The latest progress, we had initially thought to use the key switch from the bike but after thinking about it, we didn't want the pain of having two keys, one for the steering lock. So everything is running off of the ford steering column now. Very pleased today, the dash and lights all worked today, first try and the engine turned over, we're getting somewhere now.
The diff is finally in today, the location of the push pull mechanism for the reverse is in a lovely location too, very neat.
Picked this little expansion bottle up off of ebay to finish off the cooling system. I didn't want to use the oddly shaped ugly hayabusa one. Had to have this once I'd seen it.
On my tR1ke I decided to use the original bike switches because these are designed to be weather proof. Having a steering lock key and ignition key isn't a bad thing. I did add a beeper to the steering lock and handbrake to prevent driving straight throu and wearing out the pads
make sure all parts are IVA approved. Not sure about the expansion bottle though. The high pressure rad cap needed to close off the rad is very hard (read:not) to find without expasion bottle. Make sure the low pressure cap is on the expansion bottle.
Hey Erik, yeah there's pro's and cons to using both the bike controls or the car, I am wanting to run with the car style controls for the ease of use during spirited driving. I am hoping not being designed to be water proof to not be a problem, this is going to be a dry sunny day toy. Of course you can never say it'll never get wet. The steering wheel is not very weather friendly but it's what I was supplied in the kit, maybe something that will need to be changed at some point. The ignition, we've decided to try going for just the steering column switch now. This has proved to be more difficult than first anticipated. Suzuki being clever b******s have got a 100ohm resistor in the bike key switch. Without this resistor the bike will throw an error code, took a good part of today to figure this out. A little bit of head scratching going on today.
We haven't got the kliktronic finished off yet but it's supplied with a spiral telephone type cable, some well placed cable mounts and this is what will allow for the full 2.5 turns on the steering, hopefully!
The header and expansion bottles, the way it's currently set up, the header is only to ensure the water level is above the highest point on the engine, this his a cap on it but no overflow. The cooling system will work exactly as it was in the bike, with the rad cap lifting to leak into the expansion bottle.
The bottle is just an alloy water flask with some fittings put into it. Looking back now I have it, they're a bit expensive for what it is, could quite easily make one up. I am happy enough with it. here is a link to another one form the same seller, he has a few different styles.
That's a nice idea Steve and something I think i'll defo do in the future. I'll need to get a new slip ring, I just cut the airbag wires off when removing the old wheel.
Thanks for the comment Andy.
It's been a massive headache yesterday and today. The bike ignition switch it seems has a 100ohm resistor in it (not shown on any wiring diagrams). It looks like this is to prevent anyone from just bridging the 3 pairs and stealing the bike. So when we initially wired the switch to the ford column and three relays the bike was not happy about this. It will not start and by shorting the mode selector plug displays a C42 error, which is a problem with the ignition switch.
Unluckily for us, after rectifying this, the bike will still not start. When we turn the ignition on, everything seems fine, the injection pump runs for a few seconds as it should and there are no errors. When attempting to start the engine, it just cranks over and then the fuel injection system lights starts to blink. We've checked the pump relay and the tip over sensor. It's starting to look like powering the bike up without the 100ohm resistor in the ignition switch may have damaged something in the ECM.
I've another one being delivered and fingers crossed this will sort out our starting problem, if not, only the Busa Gods knows at this point what the hell it might be, head scratching will resume!
I've the details of exactly what resistor is needed now and when it's all sorted I'll post details for future builders.
Steve, the more I've thought about it, the more I just want to do it straight away. So new slip ring ordered from ebay, 6 quid, bargain!
Not a great day today, still cannot figure out why the bike will not start!
Moving forward though, cannot let it get you down, it's gonna be something so simple probably when we do find it. Got the resistor all sorted for the ignition switch today. All 4 arches are prep'd for final fitment now too.
it's a 100ohm, 1/2w, 5% tolerance, resistor, for 12 volt systems. RS components part number 132258. I payed 22p for 10 this morning.
Well a lot learnt over the last couple of days. The greatest is about the mode selector plug, this can be shorted, the bike system will then display any error codes on the digital clock on the dash. This has to be done though at the time of the error/fault, the system does not store any errors and so if the ignition is turned off and back on again everything can look good again. We've been playing with the TOS and relays, double checking all over our new wiring, only to eventually find that the crank shaft sensor, although it looked like it was connected, the plug wasn't mating properly. Error code C12. A huge moment of euphoria ;D Initially we were going to just short the clutch switch but all the research the last couple of days, we've learnt that actually the map changes when the clutch switch is activated. Running with the clutch switch constantly made, decreases performance and increases fuel consumption.
Finished off today glueing the arches, starting to look the part now.
Still working on perfecting the electrics, the new steering slip ring is here now and so the paddle shift is going to be changed to run through the airbag and horn wiring. The rest has been tidying up and finishing off. New location for the ECM, main fuse, TOS and rectifier organised today. We're getting there slowly.