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Post by JimK on Jan 19, 2013 12:51:29 GMT
Dial Test Indicator
I used one to check my set up, more than welcome to borrow it ;D
I used a custom made st stl spacer/washer to get my alignment sorted.
Regards Jim
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Post by bossman on Jan 19, 2013 13:16:59 GMT
Just going back to the bearing nut issue i found problems trying to pack back from the bearing so the nut would fall in the right place for the split pin then if the pin wasn't bent correctly it would catch on the cap, i ended up fitting a nyloc nut however after speaking to the guys from rally dezign at Autosport they said that it should be okay only concern was heat transfer breaking down the nylon,they have been aware for some time that this as been a issue and now supply a special split nut which can be locked in position once the bearing is adjusted, there £18 for the pair delivered so doesn't seem worth risking anything else
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Jan 19, 2013 14:57:00 GMT
they would say that, the nyloc with a drop of thread lock will do me. we use nylocs on the tanks mate with no problems. it would be impossible for it to actually come off the axle if the dust cap is on.
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Post by bossman on Jan 19, 2013 16:14:40 GMT
I'm sure your right paul, but if they now's it's a issue why don't they supply the nut's iv'e bought with the kit?
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Jan 19, 2013 16:45:13 GMT
I'm sure your right paul, but if they now's it's a issue why don't they supply the nut's iv'e bought with the kit? When i contacted them about my caliper hangers, they were very sketchy on info, it was made apparent that they are made in china, it would cost them more money to change design, packing etc. Or they can just leave it, and people like us just moan..lol Im gonna nyloc, threadlock and drill the stub axle and pop a small tapered dowel in there, again that will stay in place even if loose due to the cap..
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 19, 2013 18:09:05 GMT
Damm don't you just hate those know it alls who drop in acronyms just to be smart :-) I had a look at other meanings and figured the most appropriate meaning for Rocket builders was Debt To Income ratio. DTI - Dial Test Indicator. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dial_test_indicator#Dial_test_indicatorIt has a plunger or lever which runs on the job and a dial that shows the runout measurement. If there is not one in the wife's makeup kit or medicine cabinet Jack might be able to borrow one from school, do they still do metalwork these days? They are really common for setting up lathes.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 19, 2013 18:15:51 GMT
they would say that, the nyloc with a drop of thread lock will do me. we use nylocs on the tanks mate with no problems. it would be impossible for it to actually come off the axle if the dust cap is on. If I understand you right here you are planning to get rid of the split pin and use a nyloc and some thread lock? If the nyloc the left touches the inside of the grease cap it will start to undo and jack the cap off. The grease caps will do no retaining, got to keep that split pin. Just seen the later post with the proposal to put a taper pin in as well - better. Is there a reason though that we can't drill a new split pin hole and cut the excess off as per my earlier proposal? Not being smart here but it seems so easy I wonder if there is an issue with it and I am going find out afterwards
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Jan 19, 2013 18:21:19 GMT
Yeah, im gonna drill further down the axles and put in a taper dowel
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Post by airforceone on Jan 19, 2013 18:42:53 GMT
I know they are made in china and are probably not the best bits of kit. I had a few minor issues with fitting mine but I think that was more down to my inexperience.
I have used castle nuts on the thread instead of the nut that was supplied, this is perfect as it allows you to still use the supplied split pin and makes everything secure. As for the dust caps I will agree that these are crap, the fit is terrible and has caused me to put some unwanted marks on the hubs whilst trying to fit and remove them so I have gone down the route of just not fitting them not a big issue as the center cap of the wheels completely covers the thread but to make sure I have packed it with grease. I did file the caps down a bit for a better fit, the caps are only £6 from rally design anyway.
I have just stripped, cleaned and re-bled my rear discs and calipers and will be doing the fronts 2moro as part of a winter check up, I will take a picture of how I have it fitted.
There were times that I wish I had just stuck with the RTR front uprights and got some focus rear stub axles and saved myself the £300 but after fitting them and getting them sorted they do look good and most people that have the RTR uprights eventually go for the upgrade anyway.
So stick with it.
Ned
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 19, 2013 19:24:53 GMT
Hi Jon n Jack
Have you guys looked at the rear bulkhead yet?
There were mentions in other threads that in order to fit the engine you had to weave the rear bulkhead from the rear of the top tube to the front of the bottom but not sure if this was still a requirement on the later chassis.
BobN mentions it, he also found the tank and tank cover hard to fit.
Until my emergency relief package turns up which will allow me to finishing jobs at the front I thought I would have a play around with this. I have just finished fitting my revolutionary composite floor (pics to follow).
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Jan 19, 2013 19:32:32 GMT
I saw this on bobs too, but I have not done it as it looks atrocious not being straight.it throws the lines out I have flush mounted mine in the drivers compartment, leaving as much room as possible for the headers. I can't see what probe it will cause
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 19, 2013 20:03:39 GMT
Bob did get a post saying to 'weave back to front' to give more room in the engine bay, it makes it more tricky to make a neat job though.
It also led to problems with tank and cover.
I will mock it up today hopefully, going to depend on time as Vicki is demanding some 'us time', can't figure it as it was her who demanded I get a project!
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Post by jacksdad on Jan 19, 2013 20:46:25 GMT
Our general plan (chosen for no good reason) was to do the suspension then the front of the car then the middle and then the back, so we haven't even thought about rear bulkheads as yet, tomorrow we re going to try to fabricate a front side bulkhead which will fit flush with the outer surface of the chassis with nice rounded edges etc I'm not sure if we are up to doing this well enough but we'll see
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2013 22:11:15 GMT
I saw this on bobs too, but I have not done it as it looks atrocious not being straight.it throws the lines out I have flush mounted mine in the drivers compartment, leaving as much room as possible for the headers. I can't see what probe it will cause Shouldn't be a problem on the new chassis as there is more room in the engine bay. Especially as I doubt you'll be using the Focus cat! Sent from my GT-I9300 using proboards
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Post by jacksdad on Jan 21, 2013 15:43:59 GMT
We spent sun am trying to make aluminium panels that would fit nice and flush to the chassis but decided was too hard and would take to long to do a goodjob and we would get through too much aluminium, so will go with the standard approach
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