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Post by jacksdad on Apr 28, 2020 23:23:42 GMT
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Post by Stiggy on May 8, 2020 9:35:44 GMT
Hi, I was wondering what plans you had for IVA and R100 compliance? There is a loophole. 48v EV's do not need to meet R100. Therefore if you buy 48v controllers and series parallel your batteries then you will be able to have an IVA application validated. It looks like you are doing a great job but the Mira 6k is for reporting not approving and they will no doubt find areas such as vibration testing that will scupper approval and require further work/testing. Good luck, let me know if I can be of help. Stuart
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Post by jacksdad on May 8, 2020 22:42:08 GMT
Thanks Stuart - yes i was aware of the 48V rule but if i get IVA approval with this i guess i would need to notify a change in voltage afterwards and still require ECE r100 also i would need to change motor as this motor has a min 112v limit i think but i guess it is worth a try if i cant get the process to work for me. I have contacted MIRA just a few weeks ago and there is a form to fill now which was better than previously and seems more organised offering a pre test video consultation to discuss the setup and clarify some of the rules , I don't completely understand the process but I am confident i can meet ECE 100.01 s per the IVA requirements this is fairly straitforward and does not mention a requirement for mechanical or destruction tests on the battery cases - are you aware of anyone who has attempted to go through this process ?? . I am installing an insulation monitoring PCB which also relieves you of some requirements. The other option if i really cant get the process to work for me is to get an ICE fitted and passed through IVA then apply for an electric conversion as these can be self certified it seems and don't require a r100 certificate from an independent source. Anyway we had a very exciting day today as the programming unit for the motor controller arrived and we sat in the comfort of the kitchen table after i had made up a special lead to upgrade the controller firmware and new parameter files. The programmer looks like an excellent way to fine tune the controller as well the original setup was a very slow single button menu system and spyglass: This means that this weekend we have a good chance of getting the motor turning we will then see if my chain drive is a goer (I know Stuart had some reservations) and how noisy it is. at the moment the driveshafts are not fitted so can fine tune motor controllers before fitting i will set limits on current and torque and the throttle map so will have good control and low speed for setup and I currently have a low ratio of 3:1 so the chains and sprockets are not fully loaded. Very exciting if after 7 years we finally get something to spin.
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Post by jacksdad on May 10, 2020 12:43:04 GMT
YES !!!!
a working motor with no problems we setup a few parameters and just tried it and it worked see videos:
Its certainly not quiet
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Post by jacksdad on May 11, 2020 12:06:04 GMT
drive shafts fitted very easily today we where worried as it was difficult to get the motor unit perfectly central but there was enough lateral play to make this up - just undid top wishbone bolt and swung the uprights out watching for brake pipe popped the outer spine on the shaft into the bearing and popped the inner CV back in and put boot onand torqued it up. All seemed to fit back fine and then put wheels back on and ran motor with car still on axle stands and wheels turned fine.
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Post by jacksdad on May 11, 2020 12:16:05 GMT
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Post by jacksdad on May 11, 2020 12:22:09 GMT
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Post by jacksdad on May 11, 2020 12:50:30 GMT
On a slightly different note do you think i could use this flat stip of steel forming part of the old focus engine mount support to put my chassis number on it would be quite easy to file of the power coat neatly on this part and then bash in the number ( i have a set of punches) and then laquer over or paint over -does the number have to be in a certain position on the car ??
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Post by carlyd on May 11, 2020 13:57:01 GMT
Taken from the IVA Guide
1. The vehicle must be fitted with a manufacturer’s plate, in a conspicuous and readily accessible position.
2. Manufacturer’s plates must be fitted at each stage of a multistage build and be positioned in close proximity to each other.
3. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be made of a durable material.
4. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be securely attached to a part of the vehicle that will not be replaced through normal use (see note 3).
5. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be indelibly marked with the manufacturer’s name (See note 1)
6. All plate(s) must be indelibly marked with the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) which matches the number marked into the vehicle structure and is displayed in the correct order inside a clearly marked rectangle. (See below and notes 1, 2 & 5).
VOSA MOTOR INC
Name of manufacturer
e1*2007/46*0291*02
Approval No. and/or Build Stage No.
3GPG918009BS51312
Vehicle Identification Number
1500 kg
Maximum permitted laden mass of vehicle
2500 kg
Maximum permitted laden mass for the combination where the vehicle is used for towing
1 – 730 kg
2 – 810 kg
Maximum permitted laden road mass for each axle, listed in order from front to rear
7. The Stamped in VIN must be marked on the chassis, frame or other similar structure which is not easily removable, on the right hand side of the vehicle when viewed from the rear. (see note 6, 8, 9 & 12)
8. The Stamped in VIN must be placed in a clearly visible and accessible position by a method such as hammering, stamping, etching (metal chassis) or embossed, moulded into the structure (glass fibre or carbon fibre chassis) so that it can not be obliterated or deteriorate.
9. The VIN number must consist of 17 digits with the information shown in a single line (except for mass-produced vehicles where the use of two lines is permissible). See note 7.
10. Capital letters and numerals must be used for the VIN
11. There must not be any gaps large enough to insert extra characters between the characters for the VIN shown on the manufacturer’s plate or stamped into the vehicle. (See note 4)
12. The Vehicle Identification number on the manufacturer’s plate must be marked in characters at least 3.5mm high.
13. The characters on the manufacturer’s plate (with the exception of the Vehicle Identification number) must be at least 2 mm high
14. The characters used for the VIN stamped into the chassis, frame or other similar structure must be at least 3.5mm high.
15. Use of the letter I, the letter O, the letter Q, dashes, asterisks and other special signs are not permitted (see note 10)
16. In instances where the VIN has been changed evidence of agreement with the Approval Authority must be provided.
I hope this helps
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Post by jacksdad on May 11, 2020 14:50:53 GMT
It sounds like the manufacturers plate can be riveted? If I whack them hard enough can the VIN be punched through the powder coat do u think - so I won’t need to weld anything ??
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Post by martinw on May 11, 2020 16:35:32 GMT
I managed to stamp my VIN onto the chassis post-powder coat on my Sonic. Unfortunately, I failed to register the fact that it should be on the RHS of the vehicle when viewed from the rear until after I'd done it . I made a marginally neater job of re-doing it about 8" further along the same chassis rail . Martin
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Post by carlyd on May 11, 2020 17:16:44 GMT
It sounds like the manufacturers plate can be riveted? If I whack them hard enough can the VIN be punched through the powder coat do u think - so I won’t need to weld anything ?? Don't confuse the manufacturers plate with the stamped VIN. Your car needs both. You need a stamped number into a chassis rail or similar (I would not suggest an engine mount as that could be changed). You will also need a chassis plate which you can make or buy a blank one and stamp that yourself, then rivet that to your car. I rivetted my chassis plate to the centre console. It does not have to be attached directly to the chassis. I show my chassis plate on my build as I made my own. It didn't look as professional as I had hoped though. They are not expensive if you look on Ebay. Most Rockets have the VIN stamped into the chassis rail near the pedal assembly.
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Post by jacksdad on May 11, 2020 18:40:08 GMT
Cheers Carl very clear
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Post by Stiggy on May 12, 2020 9:21:33 GMT
Delighted to see you found a use for the gearbox mount. It is on the wrong side of the car for the stamped in VIN though. You may be able to grind off paint and stamp near the pedals if you have hammer clearance. I can't understand how it could have been manufactured and sold without a VIN number stamped on, maybe there is a VIN but not easily spotted due to build up of paint?.
Check drive shaft tri bearings with boot removed and suspension full droop. They can pop out under load if they are near the edge of the housing, you can use 18 mm washers in front of splines if the 3 bearings are too far out. Also check on full bump as you don't want them pushing into the end of the housing as this will be direct hit on to the motor bearings.
Don't worry about the noise, when you are doing 70 with wind in your face or a helmet on you won't hear anything behind you.
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Post by jacksdad on May 12, 2020 17:01:38 GMT
it's quite old the chassis now sadly 2012 but deffo did not have vin no. In comparison to the electric regs im hoping this is easy to fix ! I did wind the suspension up and down with the jack and all seemed to move freely both sides but i will peal back the boot and look at the tripods carefully as you suggest before taking it off the axle stands - yes the gearbox mount is the perfect size for the DC-DC converter although quite heavy duty for this component but may help a bit if it gets hot i guess.
I was a little surprised by the temperature the controllers got to (45 deg) after 5 minutes of turning with no load so i may need a couple of chiller plates and a small radiator and cooling pump etc i think i guess a small oil cooler will probably be enough looking at the controller spec i think i need to dissipate about 1KW of heat about 10% of the power of the motor.
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