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Post by BobN on Aug 23, 2013 8:53:59 GMT
Spoilers finally fitted after months of waiting for them to be made. Front and Rear.
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Post by petik on Aug 23, 2013 14:23:06 GMT
Very nice! Looks like a whole new car. I bought the same set but haven't gotten around to installing it yet.
Are you planning on keeping the front spoiler on permanently? I'm worried about wrecking it in no time over a bump or rock or something...
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Post by BobN on Aug 23, 2013 16:05:53 GMT
Hi The spoilers do transform the car indeed. Yes I will keep the front ones permanently as they are the same level as the chassis so I don't think they will get damaged on speed bumps etc. Bob
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Post by andy111 on Aug 23, 2013 17:59:55 GMT
Bob
Loving the spoilers ... I've always really liked the rear one ... over the top maybe, but I think it balances the overall design of the car.
The two tone red and black looks great as well, kind of what I'm hoping for with the gold and black.
Andy
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Post by BobN on Aug 23, 2013 19:17:13 GMT
Yours should look like your avatar picture so it should look good too.
Bob
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Post by huggy on Aug 24, 2013 19:31:17 GMT
I was at a classic car show over the weekend and as I was parking I could not engage any of the gears, the lever was very loose. It appears that one of the gear cables had come out of the lever socket. This was experienced during the build and I thought I sorted it by adjusting the angle of the socket on the cable. I managed to take the front part of the tunnel out to get the socket back in and when I got home thought it might be a good idea to cable tie them together so in future it won't come loose (was a PITA of a job). I managed to do this with great difficultly through the front part of the tunnel and gap where the gear lever is. The other option was to take the entire tunnel out which means take seats out, fuel tank cover and dash which I wanted to avoid. What I might do in winter is cut the tunnel into 3 sections so that I can take out the central bit to access the gear cables or adjust handbrake cable in future. Here is the pics (cable tie to gear cable, cable tie to lever and 3rd cable tie to hold them together). Are there any other solutions out there?Show Bob Hi Bob, Is the cable tie solution proving to be okay please? I'm thinking about doing the same. Spoilers look great btw :-) Huggy
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Post by BobN on Aug 24, 2013 20:57:12 GMT
Yep the cable ties are working so far. Did 100 miles since the mod.
Bob
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Post by BobN on Nov 15, 2013 14:16:23 GMT
So I had a good summer with the car. The bottom of the the car has scrapped quite a few speed bumps and recently I hit a speed bump at high speed. On inspection of the under carriage I noticed that the seat runner bolts had bent. Here is a close up of a removed bolt. Taking a good look at it I could not see any cracks etc. I plan to replace the bolts over winter. - Anyone had a similar experience? - Does anyone know the force at which these bolts snap (I cannot remember the rating of the bolts). cheers Bob
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Post by airforceone on Nov 15, 2013 14:47:47 GMT
These type of bolts are usually rated 8.8 if they are stainless steel.
I would be more concerned whether the cross members that the bolts go thru have been distorted or show signs of damage around the bolt holes. I would give them a good inspection just to make sure.
I was afraid that this might happen to me so all bolts that go thru the floor, I have put in from the bottom up, keeping the clearance at the bottom of the car as big as possible.
Maybe worth while doing this with your replacement bolts.
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Post by BobN on Nov 15, 2013 17:27:17 GMT
Cross members look ok fortunately.
I will try to put bolts through the other way round as you did, it makes sense and should help in case I have another scrape.
Bob
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Nov 15, 2013 18:05:41 GMT
im surprised iva was passed with those sticking out, why didnt you use button heads fitted upwards, then a smear of silicone over them to avoid rusting and dirt in the allen head??
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Post by BobN on Nov 15, 2013 18:13:48 GMT
Hi Paul No idea why I didn't do that at the time, was probably lazy. .. Anyway was thinking of using these as the head is flat as you can see in the 2nd comparison pic. Bob
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Nov 15, 2013 19:24:23 GMT
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Post by airforceone on Nov 15, 2013 20:15:07 GMT
Agree with Paul.
The square part of the shank will dig in to the chassis cross member which would not be good.
I have hex head bolts, and when ever possible have put them up thru the floor. They only stick out about 10mm max. I've been over some massive speed bumps without any issues.
Just cut your speed right down and if possible only take the speed bump with one side of the car a normal car can straddle the bump but it's a bit dodgy in a Rocket.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 15, 2013 20:23:01 GMT
Do not use those square head Bob, they are only rated at grade 5 (I think) so way too weak, only good for farm gates. Also avoid 12.8 cap heads, (head would be wrong shape anyway) but stronger is not better here as the penalty for the higher tensile strength is brittleness. Instead of bending you would have broken them I'm with Paul on this one, dome head A2-70 or A4-80 SS and make sure they are stamped with grade, don't believe the " plain 316 is better " stories. If you don't want or can't get the SS them dome heads rated no higher than 10.9.
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