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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 30, 2016 9:32:16 GMT
Also bought a NoCo Genius BG40 lithium jump pack. It is actually a bit of overkill as it is capable of starting a 6.0l petrol or 3.0l desiel engine but it was only another US$20 dearer than the size below.
Pretty rugged and waterproof, works a treat with the external jump terminals I installed previously.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 13, 2016 7:41:31 GMT
Been reading about how to squeeze a few more ponies out of the engine and keep returning to the air intake. My air filter was sitting parallel to the crankshaft and must have been sucking in quite warm air so decided to rectify the problem, came up with this. First I trimmed the 90deg bend to push the filter as far back as possible then re-orientated the filter to point as far forward as possible yet still allow the engine cover to close. Then I cut a hole in the grill and sandwiched it between a ring on the inside.... .... and two plates on the outside. The filter is now still at an angle to the grill but with a short piece of bendy tuibe I finished with this. I have to insert the tube after closing the cover but it is not too hard to do. However I intend to make a proper cone cover to pop in instead of the tube. Will see how it feels next weekend when we have a double event weekend, 400m sprint on Saturday and hillclimb on Sunday.
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Post by mawdo81 on Nov 13, 2016 7:51:18 GMT
I like the idea but seen you're now all go over show! That's neither red nor shiny...
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 13, 2016 8:32:19 GMT
True, the entry cone could be made Red and Shiny, however read post one on previous page - you will see how I reformed.
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Post by airforceone on Nov 13, 2016 11:03:58 GMT
I would check your filter more often now.
I found that mine had become quite the fly and bug catcher after I did the same sort of thing.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 14, 2016 4:19:39 GMT
Did you have any problems in the rain Ned? I have read warnings about taking water into the engine but the references are more towards scooping up puddles if the intake is very low.
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Post by mawdo81 on Nov 14, 2016 8:21:47 GMT
A bit of water is not a bad thing for power, it expands massively when heated, and keeps the intake cooler. The danger comes when you have too much. Unlike air, water is not compressible so, if you have more than the volume available at tdc it has to go somewhere, bending valves or blowing past the piston rings.
If you have a filter on, with the engine in that position, I'd be more worried about getting out of the car in the sort of scenario that would impact you...
Just my understanding and application of logic..not tested ;-)
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Post by airforceone on Nov 14, 2016 13:55:13 GMT
I have about 18 inches of pipework before anything would get to the filter. After that there is only the bend into the intake so a combination of the filter, pipe layout and the heat in the engine bay should stop any worrying amounts of water getting to the engine.
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 14, 2016 17:39:32 GMT
Would you get more air in, for the same under-bonnet-space with an open cone? Like this? The volume of air at 50 degrees is only 12% greater than at 15 degrees (Charles' Law) assuming 1 bar (not *charged), so more surface area might be the way to go?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 14, 2016 19:04:16 GMT
airforceone I thought you were on ITB's these days? I've figured that there is a similar chance of rain issues with an exposed ITB filter as with my system so I am not worrying too much, more curious. casesensitive I am looking at the temperature of the air rather than the volume, the volume will be controlled by what the engine sucks in, I am trying to get it as cold as possible which was hampered by the previous setup where it was sucking air heated by the engine. The design of the filter housing should help as well as the only place to get air from is now completely external to the engine bay. This is the filter www.pipercross.net/pipercross-universal-venom-filter-75mm-intake-vm7000_p24036733.htmIt came with a long piece of flexible hose, as per the short bit shown, so I can turn the filter back to the original position and still feed through the new entry in the front if I need to. Also been reading a book called High Performance Ford Focus Builders Handbook, in the section on air intakes they compare long and short intakes, assuming the same air temperature, the shorter intake gave a slight advantage above 3700 revs. Emphasis on slight though. To be honest though it was more space constraints that led to the arrangement I choose, to enter through the front of the grille and reach the filter in other places would have meant a lot of bends in the pipe whereas this has minimal bends in it. Regarding that book, it is quite interesting dealing with upgrades to NA, supercharged and turbo engines, one NA build produced 223hp and a turbo went to 514hp
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 15, 2016 1:56:47 GMT
Notice also how I resisted the urge to jump straight in and buy one of these despite it's colour
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 15, 2016 9:39:10 GMT
Also been reading a book called High Performance Ford Focus Builders Handbook, in the section on air intakes they compare long and short intakes, assuming the same air temperature, the shorter intake gave a slight advantage above 3700 revs. Emphasis on slight though. To be honest though it was more space constraints that led to the arrangement I choose, to enter through the front of the grille and reach the filter in other places would have meant a lot of bends in the pipe whereas this has minimal bends in it. Regarding that book, it is quite interesting dealing with upgrades to NA, supercharged and turbo engines, one NA build produced 223hp and a turbo went to 514hp Yeah, the ST170 has not only a variable cam actuator, but a dual-stage inlet, so at higher revs the intake path is shortened, the IMRC pulls a cable, and much like you change which vents the hot air in your heating comes out, it goes down the long or short path ( long for low-end torque, short for high-rev owwwwwer.) Wheeler Dealers did a Porsche (boxer maybe?) with a straight 6 with variable length rams that did the same trick. And we mostly throw it away and put fairly unsophisticated motorbike individual throttle bodies on them :-)
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Post by deejay on Nov 15, 2016 20:27:20 GMT
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 15, 2016 20:50:30 GMT
Yes casesensitive justify this blatent waste of a valuable resource I have only the standard 2.0l Zetec. For a number of reasons I am not going for forced injection I am looking to see what I can squeeze out the NA, easier? - No, Cheaper - No but I have my reasons As for the adjustable inlet, the runner length and air inlet length are different issues. Certyainly though feeding cold air is the simplist and cheapest thing to do. Next step is a few tricks to do with spark plugs that I have been reading about
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 16, 2016 8:57:48 GMT
ST170s only really get about 155-160, but that'll be plenty for a start, I'll work with that for a few months. But I have a set of GSXR1000 ITBs, airforceone's DANSt trumpets, backplate and Pipercross monster sausage filter, a standard Focus return-ful fuel rail and pressure regulator and a return line to my standard Focus fuel pump, just begging to be installed. I just need to drop €800 on an ME221 ECU and loom to drive it all. Oh, and rewire the engine for a 3rd time. Why? and because of the VRRRRROOOMMMM it'll make...
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