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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 17, 2013 21:07:21 GMT
I hijacked Jack and Dad's build to discuss an issue with the front wheel bearings, thought it better to bring it to my build.
When I fitted my front wheel bearings the outer race went in so far, before the play was eliminated, that the parallel part of the shaft protruded through the bearing and in fact if one fitted the plain nut without a spacer the bearings would be well loose.
In itself not a major problem as a spacer does the trick but it still leaves the problem that the grease cap will not fit, it fouls on the end of the thread.
I figure this is because the units are off the shelf from different suppliers and this particular combination gives this issue, other build types may not suffer.
The solution I am thinking of using is to to shorten the thread to the minimum safe requirement and move the split pin hole to locate in the castle nut (not supplied in the kit which is odd) so it needs minimal spacers.
I may or may not shorten the parallel part of the stub axle but in reality this has no benefit as I would have to cut a longer thread and quite frankly this is more prone to a cock up than using a minimal spacer.
Can anyone see a flaw in this plan before I do it? If not I will sort this out later and post some before and after picks.
Rob
PS - A little colder in the garage yesterday, thought about putting an extra layer over my tee-shirt but I thought it better to be a bit chilly and assume some solidarity with my UK brother builders.
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Post by jacksdad on Jan 18, 2013 0:59:08 GMT
I Replied in my thread but I'll do so here as well the unthreaded end on the axle does indeed extend beyond the outer race and I used 2 or three big washers before the nut I would do this rather than space out the inner end of your axle ( if i understand you correctly) as this would change the position of the disc inside the the caliper, if you look at my thread in the technical section on the uprIghts I mentioned my problems with the grease caps and ned said he thought they were more trouble than they were worth and the centre of the alloys and the centre cap seals it all in anyway so he just left them off, which I think most people have done
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 18, 2013 8:54:19 GMT
I considered spacing the inner race out but as you say it would affect the relationship between the disk and the brake which could be resolved by changing the spacer between the stub and the upright...........
Soon abandoned as an idea when all I am trying to do is fit a grease cap.
Still keen on shortening the thread on the stub and re-drilling the pin hole which would mean a minimum size spacer to cover the end of the plain part of the stub rather than a thick one to bring the castle nut in line.
My grease hubs seem ok in diameter, they are Rally Design RD757.
Rob
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Post by jacksdad on Jan 18, 2013 23:36:35 GMT
Seems like a good plan would you need to cut the thread further down the axle ?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 19, 2013 0:40:39 GMT
Seems like a good plan would you need to cut the thread further down the axle ? Figure that is fraught with danger as we are only talking a few mm and you have to pick up the thread pitch, not worth the effort. Will put a spacer in over the parallel part but keep it to one acceptable width spacer to align the castle nut and the pin.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 20, 2013 6:14:40 GMT
Today I finished installing my special composite floor and bulkheads, still needs a little fine tunng but I reckon it is going to be more popular than carbon. Fixing method is pretty revolutionary, no more aching wrists with pop rivets. Reckon it still needs a couple more cable ties though and it should be right. ;D Had to use the cable ties when the hot glue gun failed miserably.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 20, 2013 6:32:57 GMT
Looking at the first fit of the tank cover I think I am going to mount the rear bulkhead at the rear of the chassis (another advantage of the new material - easy refitting). I reckon it will be easier to get a neat result if it is installed 'inside' the tubes. Not 100% sure on this though, will mull it over. Got to say I am not overly impressed with the fit of the tank cover over the tunnel, there is a 30mm gap between the bottom of the tunnel and edge of cover. You can also see the damage from transit that could easily have been avoided by not packing against chassis brackets with only one layer of bubble to separate it.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 20, 2013 6:40:37 GMT
Got the accelerator pedal on, like most it looks like it needs to drop around 25mm to allow it to line up with other pedals. Rather than make a bracket I will weld another mounting plate. I am really unimpressed with the extension on the steering, I think the joint is the pits but appears to be Ford from images on the net. Also my rose joint will not slide over the bar, it is about 0.3mm oversize bar, and I have two nuts to hold it on, one is not the right thread.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 20, 2013 6:49:42 GMT
Popped the radiator in place, the lower outlet (?) is really close to where the front bulkhead will fit, I doubt it will allow an elbow into the space. Is it better to cut down this outlet or make extension brackets to take it further forward? Also looked at the fan kit. Initially I was well confused as to how it fitted on as the fixing lugs looked spot on straddling the top and bottom of the radiator. Then figured I needed to spin it 90 deg and push the fittings through the fins, I figure the order of fitting is like this?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 20, 2013 6:59:49 GMT
Also added the tandem tank for the brakes. Well tried to add as the tank had no fixing lugs. You will see again I have used the new fixing technique , reckon I will try and have a couple of lugs or bolts plastic welded for mounting purposes. Note to Paul - cable ties are great to keep associated parts is close proximity, saves that "I am sure I had it round here somewhere" problem ;D
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Post by JimK on Jan 20, 2013 8:39:04 GMT
Hi Rob, Regarding the lower radiotor outlet, I would certainly not reduce it! I made a cut out in my front bulkhead, this allowed the tubing to fit fine. I covered the cutout with some stainless mesh on quick release fixings. This gives an advantage of easy access to the joints shoud you have a leak and somewhat secondary (for you) provides warm air to your feet when you're tearing about when it's 0 degrees outside. I have then made a carbon cover to go over the mesh and perforated the floor to allow the heat to escape. That composite floor is amazing, not sure we can get that over here.... ;D Jim
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 27, 2013 6:27:07 GMT
Inspired by Huggy's thread I thought a post of the outside of my shed might be of interest. You can just see the nose inside
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 27, 2013 6:40:40 GMT
Well despite a lack of appropriate parts, hopefully they will escape customs tomorrow, I did a little bit of work this week. Decided to ditch the supplied steering extension on grounds of it would fail inspection in NZ - No welding of any description in the steering unless there is absolutely no choice. The fact that it is about 16.2mm diameter (it's not even round) and the rose is 16mm, plus one of the two lock nuts is a different thread also helped my decision. Going to replace it with a 3/4" bar with milled hex on the rack end and milled flats on the joint end. Will support with a bearing mounted on the bulkhead similar to Brownie. Also did a little work on the tank cover, cut some off around the lower chassis tube to allow it to move closer to fitting, still a bit to do before it is final fitted though. Also can't understand why the hole in the petrol tank for the pump is so large. My pump almost falls in yet I cut a hole in a piece of "composite" just big enough to fit the top of the pump and I can feed the pump through it no problem. Anyone shed any light on why the hole is so big?
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Jan 27, 2013 11:31:36 GMT
Well not commenting on your big hole, but i opted to get my tank without due to not being happy with sealing it, also it not being reinforced. I thought that it should have a 4mm flange/boss ring welded on to stop it flexing. I've had a -8 fitting welded to mine at the base, then a facet cube solid state lift pump feeding the swirl pot
I would look at machining a boss and bolting or welding it to, seeing as you have the kit available
Paul
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 2, 2013 8:58:54 GMT
Emergency parcel finally arrived earlier this week so I was able to complete the assembly of the front suspension and connect the steering. Also picked up a landrover valve spring, cut it half and fitted it to the quick rack. Ditched the dodgy steering rack extension for a new piece of 20mm bar, cut a hex to fit the focus UJ at the rack end. And a DD at the joint end. I was not happy with the joint originally (well I was not happy with the entire extension) but with a decent fit it is quite solid. Posting more details on this in the techical section. Also ditched the rose joint and replaced it with a flexible bearing and housing. The support and feel is very good even in my 'composite' bulkhead. Fitted the gear lever assembly and handbrake also, got them nicely lined up centrally with a couple of string lines. Some work was also done on fitting the fuel pump but that is not finished so will leave that for now.
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