I ordered the seats at : www.kitcars.nl/ I don't know who makes them but they come from the UK. Best thing of all is you can chose your own colors for minor additional costs. have a look at the Rocket (used cars section) for a blue version. One note: the silver pyramids have black base and are spray painted silver. I do expect them to wear out over time. I didn't realize this at first.
max width is 43cm at rib height, 40cm at the front, flat bottom. sits perfectly for 1,76m lenght and midweight bone structure ;-P
The display above the steering column is a definately No-go area because of the tube behind the body obstructing the connector location. If lower the display against the column i am not able to see the signals. The bracket may be used for navigation display later. The R1 display will be mounted in the center. I'll make templates first.
Today I made 4 bolting locations on the body. Welded the brackets to the chasis and drilled the holes 50% inside-out and 50% outside in for highest accuracy. need to make 2 more. the body will be fine trimmed after it is set firm in position. Then i can make the radiator brackets as well.
Yep, not cheap, but buying seats you don't really like (looks or comfort) is the worst investment ever. buy cheap, buy twice... and I'll probably build only 1 tR1ke in my life and want to do it the way I like it. After you have seen this seat you'll find it hard to find a seat you like for less... At least I did.
I'll remove the passenger seat soon and weigh it with rails. Dunno why your so keen on knowiing the weight of a fibre seat??
Because many of the other seats I've seen are 20 kg ea.
Good point on the looks/comfort, though I was pondering building something simple to get on the road ASAP, then another the way I really want with many parts of my own design/construction and a passive ant-roll chassis/suspension.
But I guess I could transfer the seats from the first to the second.
Did you notice any kind of identifying tag/label anywhere on the seat?
Hi Noah, 20kg is a lot. I'll remove one seat soon and place it on a scale. Keep in mind you are not in need to make any bracketry unlike the other fibre versions. Unfortunately, the square tubes to place the rails on have been placed to far behind and I needed to add 20x20 tubes in between the rails and seat to get the seat in good position. Just drilling a few holes in the tubes, line everything out and (basically) that's it. Keep in mind these seats (640 a pair) are tailormade in europe, not china. Fortunatly there aren't any labels on these seats. They do spoil the looks big time. Hope to keep the labels to a minimum because they have to match the tR1ke as well. I have gotten very picky on this.
This evening I started to mount the display and mirrors on the body. My e9 approved bike mirrors have only a minimum angle for adjustments and due to the body shape and the drivers seat positioned off centre unlike a bike I had to weld bracketry on the chasis under the body to support the mirrors in the correct angles. By now the body has been supported by 8 bolts in total.
Up to now no holes have been bored in the chasis all bracketry is spot welded for now. I hope I need only to make 2 holes for the exhaust brackets.
In pics below you see the inside and bottom of the seats, drivers view on the display, and Magazi mirror (That's Taiwan billet, not italian. worth to have a look at their website!)
Hi Noah, The side flanges are perfect for me (1.76m lenght, average bone structure ;-D ) The only downside of this seat is it can still flex a bit like all fibre seats but it cannot be braced to the chasis on the shoulder area. As you can see, the seatbelt openings could have been made 10-15mm higher. It is a tight height to meet IVA (car) dimensions for approval. right now the upwards bended seatbelt bracket cancelles out approval because thefixing point is now just a few mm lower as the needed minimum height. a slightly thinner padding would be the best remedy. I do hope they will be mild on this.
One bad note on the rails. The side without lever has vertical slob. Not noticeable when sitting in it.
Problem is all parts need to be street legal in Europe. technically, the seatbelt opening is 3mm within the tolerance which is very tight. Having the padels adjusted is like the KTM Xbow. These pedals can be moved forward-rearwards and up-down. seats are fixed as well. Pretty cool!!
Just finished welding the brackets of the mirrors, radiator and fuel tanks. Took me 4 days to get them tension free at angles which don't make sense at all. I think they will be usefull for future builders to show more insight in the chasis design.
Right now I need to do some forum reading to find some more welding locations and PITA areas.
It is no ikea. It is a British kitcar. Part of the fun is to find out by yourself where what goes. Each person has its own ideas and philosophy about his tr1ke.
Sent from my GT-S5660
Late 2010; Got interested, visited RTR & ordered a tR1ke February 2011; Purchased and dismantled a R1 April 2011; Started building June 2012; UK Approval by RTR July 2012; NL Approved and licensed! August 2012 and on: Driving & fine tuning.... August 2015; Sold my Tr1ke. Up for a new project.
It makes me chuckle about the mention about Ikea all the time like it's the best place ever :-)
It wouldn't matter if the kit car was German, Dutch or American. It's it a Kit Vehicle. Meaning it needs a certain amount of commitment and knowledge to put together. Even companies like Grinnal who have been in Kit Cars over 20 years will still provide a vehicle needing bits to be made to fit. If you wanted the equivalent to Ikea you would surely buy a Koenigsegg. But you didn't. :-) and why, because it's a fortune, much like Ikea stuff. Not really any better than anything else. Just different and what your use to.
Just my opinion of course as I've also used Ikea and it's not the best quality by any means.
That reminds me of a question I've been meaning to ask, if I take the "easy" way out and get a kit like the Tr1ke:
Is there a list that details all of the things that aren't included in the kit and that the buyer must do, like what you just mentioned?
I wonder at the logic of ordering a powder-coated from when there seems to be quite a bit of welding left to do on it.
You have to chose the accesoiries yourself (wheels, steering wheel, gear knob, seats, switches etc) What isn't included in the kit are brake discs, brake+ handbrake calipers(bracket!) which are best to be ordered along with the kit because you have only info that the steering parts are Ford focus and that's close to impossible to chose your brakes and caliipers from.
The chasis has only the basic brackets for the engine and wishbones. You are NOT in need for additional custom differential, exhaust tubes, exhaust etc unlike the Rocket or Mevabusa (haven't read the other cars yet). The HIDDEN costs of this kit are a reinforced clutch (because the wheel diameter goes down, the torque on the clutch plates increases and several owners reportes issues),a higher placed coolant opening seems to be needed as well and RTR recommends a swirl tank to ensure fuel in long turns and nearly empty tank... AND a speedo meter to correct the smaller wheel diameter. That's it I guess.
I am reconsidering to order a Barnett clutch like Anglais did. The other items will be ordered if a problem does occur which is not very likely because 1) Edwin manages to have airfree coolant system and 2) I don't think I will be driving hardcore on an empty tank inside or outside a circuit. IMO RTR is too race track orientated with their recommendation.
All other hardware needs to be mounted to it with personal flavour. I myself am not very keen on drilling holes in the chasis apart for the bottom plate and exhaust bracket which leave no alternatives. Some use threaded rivets, others tight-wraps or similar. I am welding brackets, bolts and nuts to attach clamps etc. The advantage of welding is one adds material unlike boring so there is no weakening in the chasis.
On this forum there are several examples in the tR1ke forum and Rocket forum where the chasis has been powder coated to start with so you have some reference to see how some parts are attached to the chasis. personally, I do think a clear chasis is a better start. The downside is you will have additional coating and transport costs. Powder coating may turn out cheaper because you can bring along the made brackets as well with no additional costs. Painting may get too labour intensive in preparation.