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Post by erik on Dec 21, 2012 9:05:14 GMT
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Post by slugshot on Dec 21, 2012 18:57:26 GMT
Its looking very nice Eric the colour scheme looks nice but I think it will look even better in the flesh. I do like the grill mesh its funny how little things like that can make a big difference to the looks. Also the chrome mirrors are smart and should work well and I see you have used a coolant header tank  don't blame me if it doesn't work. Cheer Kevin |
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Dec 21, 2012 19:48:14 GMT
Its looking very nice Eric the colour scheme looks nice but I think it will look even better in the flesh. I do like the grill mesh its funny how little things like that can make a big difference to the looks. Also the chrome mirrors are smart and should work well and I see you have used a coolant header tank don't blame me if it doesn't work. Cheer Kevin I like the yamaha speed block on yours kevin, looks good. Very different on a car.. |
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 21, 2012 21:04:05 GMT
Looking great Erik!
Is the engine running yet?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2012 23:29:07 GMT
Looking great, love the colour scheme now I see it together. You will love those headlights, they look fantastic on Kevins.
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Post by erik on Dec 24, 2012 17:16:54 GMT
thx all! ;D It is great to see the small accesoiries are a good match. I cut a grill from 60x60cm mesh. Needed only 50% of it and an additional mesh can be cut easely. It is for sale if interested The see through area is 65% as i wrote earlier. The stock mesh is 53% (from memory). Should be noticeable in cooling efficiency. I haven't been able to fire her up yet. The original R1 key switch is ruined. I Guess the switch can't cope with water too well. Because of this I placed the key switch in the tunnel to keep it warm and dry, or to make it dry . New key switch is ordered a few weeks ago and expecte after jan 6. 2013. Wiring for the additional circuits arrived today. Only need to make the hazzard switch circuit, steering column lock/handbrake/beeper circuit and speedohealer. I made the 12V connector for nav device suitable for charging as well but I will add addional charging/starter leads on the Li-oin batt. Removed the alarm system out of the loom as well. Still not sure if the coolant reservoir has been installed properly. We'll see if this is worth living like it is now. grtz, Erik |
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Post by erik on Dec 26, 2012 21:00:20 GMT
Wheee!! ;D This evening I managed to turn the rotten key switch to see what I made of the loom  . I reconed it would be better to test the loom now before adding the additional hazzard light circuit,handbrake/steeringlock/beeper circuit. Missing the rear light loom is a trial and error session on the day-/brake lights anyway. Looks pretty well after all. There are a few minor issues to solve tough: High beam switch and flashlight switch appear to have not the same wires. High beam shuts down the lights. I think I'll rewire the R1 switch internally. I had mistaken the clutch switch for brake light switch which took me a while to find this brainfart. The aditional gauges do work permanently now. I had to remove the connector on the starter relais to cut off power. I'll hook them up on the proper wire  The oil temp/voltage gauge shows Voltage but not sure if the temp sensor is working now. I oought to see a led bar along with the digits which don't appear at this moment.Perhaps they will show when the engine gets warm. I'll have a search at youtube for info I am happy I haven't extended the clutch switch and brake light switch wiring earlier. I think I'll do them as last prio after the engine has run a brief moment and the brake fluid is in the system. Any thoughts on the high beam/flash issue here? grtz! Erik |
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Post by erik on Dec 26, 2012 21:19:56 GMT
Found some footage on the oil temp sensor startup:
The right gauge seems to work like mine does now.
The clock gauge shows similar led bar as on the left gauge. 1led=2seconds. In RED digits it shows time. Because of this I can set the R1 dash at TRIP display permanently. Seems to be a nice feature to me.
br.
Erik
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Post by erik on Jan 1, 2013 18:58:46 GMT
Well, the high beam issue needed a electricien to make things work right as like in a car. Turned out in the original loom was a connection somewhere which kept the high beam switch relais from turning off so it could switch on but not turn off unless the dim light was turned off to reset the high beam relais. a bypass circuit solved this issue. The flash light turned out to be a PITA as well because in my car it works when the key switch is off as well so we had a conflict of feeding wiring here as well.
The hazzard light circuit is still under construction. It does work like a sharm now, but I want the hazzard blinker to light up when the key switch is on and flashing when actuated, but the hazzards lights need to be actuated when the key switch is off as well AND the blinker needs to be off. We do have a conflict of feeding wiring here as well.
Today I managed to finish the key switch on+steering column lock=engine off=beeper on and key switch on+handbrake=beeper on circuits. This took a while to figure out as well because both the steering column key switch and hand brake are brake switches thus it needed 2 relais to make it work properly. The engine stalls when the steering lock is on but the engine doesn't turn off when the hand brake is pulled but in both modes the beeper is on when the key switch is on. This was fun to build!
I think I have 120hrs in total in the loom now. when the hazzard light circuit is sorted I'll mount the tanks in, fire her up briefly and finish the loom. By then I think she will be close to fill the coolant, take her off the studs, bolt the front arms and add the remaining parts.
grtz!
Erik
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Post by slugshot on Jan 1, 2013 21:17:54 GMT
Hi Eric
To say that the venom lights are a little time consuming is an understatement. It was the one thing on my build that I had to admit defeat and get an electrically minded friend to help and it still took all day.
As for the hazards I took a constantly live feed from the main loom in the tunnel that goes to the Yamaha ignition switch, I then connected it to the hazard circuit so it works without the ignition turned on..which it must for the msva.
Cheers
Kevin
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Post by erik on Jan 2, 2013 8:05:54 GMT
Hi Kevin, Yes, if one doesn't have electrical assistance the venom lights are not recommended. Luckely my neighbour has an electric background. Occasionally he commanded me to stop my babblefish to keep his head clear LOL!! A live feed on the hazzard makes the hazzard blinker turn on permanently. I think there is a conflict in feeding wires somewhere in the original loom. I send an invitation to the neightbour already. Best I can do is keep quite In the meanwhile I think I start tickle charge the Li-oin cells and get me some fuel! |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2013 10:40:44 GMT
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Post by erik on Jan 2, 2013 22:20:56 GMT
Hmmm... We worked today from 10:00-23:00 on the hazard circuit. Turned out the led indicator relais is always working when the ignition is on! Took us several hrs to redesign the circuit on paper, get 2 relais, aditional led indicator relais and a diode, make a testcircuit and integrate this in the loom. This is how it turned out: Ignition off: hazard blinker off and flashing along with indicators when hazard switch is actuated. Ignition on: hazard blinker on and flashingalong with indicators when hazard switch is actuated. it looks like a no brainer to see the blinker working like this but it was a real PITA not to conflict the original indicator circuit. I have seen a similar device like in your like at a bike accesiorie shop today but we were not able to determine if this was for LED indicators which may have caused eveen more issues. Yes, the Venom lights and hazard lights are a PITA but it is sound now. making a drop in loom for this would be priceless LOL!! Might be worthwile to design a chasis around a donorbike with hazzard circuit in the loom already Next steps are finding tutorial txt regarding Li-Ion charging, get the rear wheel from the ground and get some juice! We added 9 relais,120metres wiring and spend 50+ connectors in the loom and about 200+ t-wraps. I need to tidey the loom up later to make it look properly. May have to add feeding wires for nav instruments as well. i cannot do this after MVSA because I'll be driving home myself and I am a dislect with map reading (or I just need to get out more often LOL!!) |
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Post by slugshot on Jan 3, 2013 0:45:41 GMT
Well done sorting your home designed hazard circuit Eric,I wouldn't have the Patience to spend all day on it.
The kit that nick showed you is the one I used, it only took 1/2hour max to fit using a led relay from CBS.
PS....Be careful with the amount of t.wraps and cable you're using you don't want it to be over weight for the msva ;D
Cheers
Kevin
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fatboy
Full
142.5 bhp on a almost stock 1.8
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Post by fatboy on Jan 5, 2013 21:56:31 GMT
hi i have got to say that is the best colour combo on a tr1ke i have seen excelent  |
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. I reconed it would be better to test the loom now before adding the additional hazzard light circuit,handbrake/steeringlock/beeper circuit. Missing the rear light loom is a trial and error session on the day-/brake lights anyway.
