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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2012 20:23:53 GMT
That one would do it, you will need some solder less nipples and away you go. The length is about 3 metres, and there's loads to spare  |
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Post by filled on Dec 24, 2012 16:48:51 GMT
Is that one i linked 3 metres you mean? Will i find the nipples on ebay too? What do search for in that case?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 24, 2012 17:24:37 GMT
Solder less nipples for the throttle body connection. 4mm? You need to measure the diameter of the throttle body cable end. I swapped my cable back to front, and I have the engine threaded end in the jokers pedal, that way I have adjustment at each end. I used 10mm wide 1mm thick alloy bar, bent into a U shape, with the flats drilled to allow bolt fitment through the pedal top. The cable feeds through a cable sized hole in the bottom of the U shape. Solder less nipple to secure. Hopefully you're using Jokers pedal kit  |
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Post by filled on Dec 27, 2012 9:03:56 GMT
Thanks Steve! it is appreciated.
Do you have any answer to my question about the drive belt and a spare wheel '(idle)?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2012 9:35:41 GMT
I have used an electric water pump so my drive belt fits between the alternator and crank only. Sorry! I can't help you on this one.
I'm sure if you search marks build, or ncohen pages you will get answers.
As most builds are different though, I'd concentrate on your bracket and pulley, then measure your own alternator belt length. It's easy enough to do.
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Post by BobN on Dec 27, 2012 15:38:08 GMT
Hi Phillip. I have fitted the bracket from RTR and bought a idle wheel. The belt recommended in the build guide was too small for my engine. I think I went 1250, my diary should have exact size. But you will need to measure yours after the wheel is fitted to get the right size.
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Post by filled on Jan 6, 2013 19:59:26 GMT
I built my own bracket. Then an acquaintance manufactured a part that I could bolt the wheel on. Total cost about 11£ I took the idle wheel from a Saab 900. |
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Post by filled on Aug 30, 2015 21:43:04 GMT
Hi Again! Drove my car for the first time yesterday! But there is alot to do before the Swedish IVA.
1. What is Brace bras on front whisbones? I don´t understand.
2. Is there anyone how has a picture explaining the coolingsystem. How i connect the hoses. I think i have got it wrong.
3. Did someone of you have a problem to get the gear in? 1 and 3 is a bit short and is not going properly.
I have looked on your builds and they are very nice!
Sincerely
Filip
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Post by airforceone on Aug 30, 2015 22:54:32 GMT
There are diagrams of the cooling system in the technical section under cooling.
If your are having problems with your gear selection the cables can be adjusted if they
are original ford cables. If you are using another manufacturers cables then I would consult
them as to adjusting the cables to help with gear selection.
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Post by filled on Aug 31, 2015 6:57:59 GMT
it is ford cables.
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Post by casesensitive on Aug 31, 2015 8:51:09 GMT
I've been having similar issues with my adapted gear cables. Take the cables off the gearbox end of the selector altogether. With a brick or a friend holding the clutch pedal in, attempt to get all the gears by moving the selector with your hands (carefully, I caught my fingers a few times!). Does it work? Carefully measure or video the upper and lower / left and right bounds of where the gear selector goes when cables not connected. Now, reconnect the selector cables. Can you force the selector into position from the gearbox end with your hands? If it's 1st/3rd you can't get, I'd suggest that your upper one is too short (assuming, which its probably not, that you have a similar gearbox layout to mine). They're easily (ish) extended or shortened by using M6 threaded hex bar. My videos in this thread mevowners.proboards.com/post/75106/threadOnce you've figured out which of the two movements (left/right, in/out) and which bound (all in, all out etc) is causing you trouble, adjust the cable or selector accordingly. Then come 'round my garage and fix mine? :-> |
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Post by filled on Aug 31, 2015 17:08:12 GMT
yes. i can force the gear in position. In what end can i adjust them?
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Post by casesensitive on Sept 1, 2015 7:26:36 GMT
Depending on what kind of 'ends' you have, you should be able to adjust either. To make them longer, unscrew them a little. To make longer you'll have to cut them. Carefully, only a little at a time!
I extended mine with threaded m6 hex bar at the gearbox end (see links to my build above), but a few people extended them at the other end too.
You'll only be able to get 2-3mm of additional length by adjusting each end before the thread depth becomes a problem. Ball socket ends and m6 threaded bar may be the way, depending on how far out you are. I tapped the inside of my extensions about 35mm on the inside to get as much as possible variability
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Post by filled on Sept 4, 2015 11:19:12 GMT
Okey, thanks!
Is it hard to make the car re-steer? (translation?) When I turn and let go of the steering wheel the car would go back right?
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Post by filled on Sept 4, 2015 11:59:04 GMT
My wishbones are the same width between attachment points, but various length. I don´t know which ones to be where.
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