|
|
Post by gwnwar on Jan 14, 2013 15:12:28 GMT
Check the connectorsto the cluster make sure they are pushed down tight and click..with an OHM meter probe the black wires to the cluster connectors and a ground/frame.If that check is not good trace the black wires to there ground points and recheck.. On the dash harness there was a ground lug at both ends of the dash.. Probe the blue/yellow wire in the cluster connector for 12v power.. The B/Y wire gets its power from the METER Fuse 10Amps.. METER fuse gets its power from the Blue wire from the ignition switch. If all these checks are good look are the back of cluster board for a small break or burn mark in the foil runs..
|
|
|
|
Post by mathew on Jan 14, 2013 16:01:05 GMT
Ive spent all day on it with no joy so ive given in and ive got an auto electrician coming out to look at it this week.
I mentioned that there has been a 15amp fuse where the 10amp 'meter' fuse should be. Ive now changed this to a 10amp fuse but was wondering what parts would have damage if there was a power surge whilst the 15amp fuse was in place? would it be something in the cluster or on the circuit sheet?
|
|
stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
|
Post by stubbers on Jan 14, 2013 16:16:57 GMT
Just a quick thought, youve probably already done this but have you checked the small screws in the circuit board that are grounded?? just check continuity against the frame
Also if i turn my ignition on after all the residual charge has dissipated my rev needle blips very slightly, may help if yours blips, at least you know there is power going to it.
Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by tomaff on Jan 14, 2013 17:50:05 GMT
The 10a fuse was just from memory. Have a look on the cover and it will state the fuse required.
Thanks for that GWNWAR, i will give it a check a report back.
T
|
|
|
|
Post by mathew on Jan 14, 2013 18:29:06 GMT
Everything ive looked at has said a 10amp.
I havent touch the fuse box so the 15amp must have been in there when it was delivered (it was a replacement loom) a few months back.
|
|
|
|
Post by mathew on Jan 14, 2013 18:36:43 GMT
Check the connectorsto the cluster make sure they are pushed down tight and click..with an OHM meter probe the black wires to the cluster connectors and a ground/frame.If that check is not good trace the black wires to there ground points and recheck.. On the dash harness there was a ground lug at both ends of the dash.. Probe the blue/yellow wire in the cluster connector for 12v power.. The B/Y wire gets its power from the METER Fuse 10Amps.. METER fuse gets its power from the Blue wire from the ignition switch. If all these checks are good look are the back of cluster board for a small break or burn mark in the foil runs.. Do you mean black+yellow? i only ask as my wire to the meter fuse is black+yellow |
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Jan 14, 2013 19:32:07 GMT
YES sorry Black/yellow NOT blue /yellow
|
|
|
|
Post by mathew on Jan 15, 2013 13:06:02 GMT
BREAKING NEWS!!!! Checked everything once again today with no joy so being impatient and not willing to wait for the auto electrician i took matters into my own hands and decided to take things apart! ;D Seeing as ive got 2 instrument clusters (one intact, one half butchered) i decided to operate on the not so good one. I took of the circuit sheet on the back to see what was behind it and upon doing so i noticed a break in the ignition circuit. At first i thought it was due to the sheet folding as i took it off but checking my other cluster it seems to have the same break.  This would make sense, as like i mentioned, my replacement loom had a 15amp fuse in the 10amp slot which im pretty positive has caused the break. My only question now is how do i repair it, thats if its even repairable. Would a blob of solder work? |
|
stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
|
Post by stubbers on Jan 15, 2013 13:18:28 GMT
For once your in luck!!!! as that track leads straight to the screw you can just put a crimp on terminal on the screw and then scotch lock onto the wire in the block connector that corresponds with the K (Black/Yellow if i remember). No soldering needed  What i meant by crimp on terminal www.ryanairconspares.com/images/RingCrimps.jpgRich |
|
|
|
Post by mathew on Jan 15, 2013 13:34:11 GMT
For once your in luck!!!! as that track leads straight to the screw you can just put a crimp on terminal on the screw and then scotch lock onto the wire in the block connector that corresponds with the K (Black/Yellow if i remember). No soldering needed What i meant by crimp on terminal www.ryanairconspares.com/images/RingCrimps.jpgRich Im glad i read that before being let loose with a solder iron ;D I think the excitement caused me to miss the obvious, simple solution |
|
stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
|
Post by stubbers on Jan 15, 2013 13:39:25 GMT
Haha, will be a good way to test it as you dont need to put the scotch lock in to test, you can just trap the flying wire in position.
Good luck
Rich
|
|
|
|
Post by pincherrn on Jan 15, 2013 14:54:28 GMT
Hi guys, please try and avoid using scotchlocks for your own sanity. They are not the best of things and can cause loads of problems in the future. If you can try and solder onto the wire and use heatshrink over or self amalgamating tape. Best method is this type of thing compare.ebay.co.uk/like/140889747257?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0We used these on the aircraft. They have a ring of solder and glue which all melts when heated soldering and sealing it all in one. I try and use heat shrink sealed crimps all the time. You can get them cheap enough on ebay. Cheers Colin |
|
|
|
Post by mathew on Jan 15, 2013 16:01:26 GMT
Im happy to report that all the dials now work  |
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Jan 15, 2013 17:55:02 GMT
Great news.. now back to work..
|
|
|
|
Post by tomaff on Jan 15, 2013 19:20:18 GMT
Just my dials now. I will feed back when I have done some more tests.
|
|
